How do I remove this bearing

[Fergie 307]

I've "liked" this because people should realise that WD40 is a Water-displacer, and nothing else: it is NOT a lubricant, nor is it a penetrant, and if used as a honing oil it will gum-up the oilstone and defeat the object of a honing-oil; which is to keep the oilstone free of metal particles.

And it also evaporates eventually leaving a varnish like residue, which can gum things up.

 

[Phill05]

Limey, I have been using WD40 for many many years and find some of your wording incorrect as I have found it is a water - displacer on vehicle electric's it worked on everything I had to use it on to free items stuck on shafts, rusted bolts, I use it on the cnc cutters cutting metal to stop cutters sticking. extract below from WD40 site: Rust Penetrant & Cleaner Spray with Flexible Straw | WD-40


WD-40 Specialist® Penetrant is a fast-acting penetrant with capillary action to penetrate deep into crevices, threads and seams to break the rust bonds that hold stuck parts together. It is a low odor formula that works on contact to free rusted nuts, bolts, threads, locks, and chains leaving behind a protective layer that prevents rust and corrosion from re-forming. Now the job is even easier with our proprietary 8” flexible straw that bends and keeps its shape, allowing unlimited access to hard-to-reach places.

• Penetrates rust to free up stuck, frozen, or seized equipment and parts
• Safe to use on metal, rubber and plastic parts
• Ideal for use on nuts, bolts, threads and locks
• 50-state VOC compliant

 

[Phill05]

Fergie,
Most thing if left on your work will gum up you just have to get into the habit of clean down when your finished and then use oil or grease the part

 

[RGIvy]

You're welcome to bring it to my 12T hydraulic press, I'm based in Wantage. I see you're in Swindon, 20-30 mins.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Limey, I have been using WD40 for many many years and find some of your wording incorrect as I have found it is a water - displacer on vehicle electric's ...

It's often advised to avoid WD40 on electrics as it can cause intermittent faults.

 

[keithy1959]

I've "liked" this because people should realise that WD40 is a Water-displacer, and nothing else: it is NOT a lubricant, nor is it a penetrant, and if used as a honing oil it will gum-up the oilstone and defeat the object of a honing-oil; which is to keep the oilstone free of metal particles.

It was actually the WD40 Penetrating spray I used, but tend to think of it all as the same thing, but thanks for the reminder about WD-40.

 

[keithy1959]

Chances are that your local friendly garage will have a press.
They will just press it off. If you have the new bearing with you,
they can simply press it on. Job done in under 10 minutes,
and the least stress on the new bearing.

As it happens, the car is in tomorrow for a quick job, so that's exactly what I intend to do. Slightly embarrased I didn't think of it first !!
Richard

 

[Stevekane]

On half shaft bearings we used to split the outer with a club hammer and chisel and then a couple more good hits lossened the inner track which could then to be slid off, it seemed to work well enough 40yrs ago,,,

 

[Fergie 307]

Fergie,
Most thing if left on your work will gum up you just have to get into the habit of clean down when your finished and then use oil or grease the part

I entirely agree, but I have known people use it in locks, and God forbid clocks and watches when it dries out it can leave a right mess. I use it myself regularly, just not for anything that is not going to be either cleaned or properly lubricated afterwards. For locks I tend to use way oil for the lathe as it doesn't dry out in the same way.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I use spray PTFE or graphite for locks.

 

[Fergie 307]

I use spray PTFE or graphite for locks.

Used to be able to get little puff bottles of graphite powder for micrometer and such, haven't seen any for ages though. Very useful. Only problem I find with locks is that whatever you use it inevitably gets on the keys, and then your clothes!

 

[Fergie 307]

On half shaft bearings we used to split the outer with a club hammer and chisel and then a couple more good hits lossened the inner track which could then to be slid off, it seemed to work well enough 40yrs ago,,,

Remember doing one of these on a UMM 4x4. Never known one so tight, several tons on the press before it finally let go with a noise like a gun going off!

 

[Stevekane]

We had an enormous hydraulic press which as you say gave a quite frightening crack when a very tight bearing let go, and being a dealership we had a good selection of the formers that fitted most bearings, but every so often you found some oddball one and thats when we resorted to the big hammer. Its all so long ago now but if Im correct any shaft that takes a bearing will have a shoulder that stops the bearing short and gives you a little bit of space to get a formers into, trouble is that they can be a bit optimistic and often the very thin ones were as I recall often badly buckled.

 

[Fergie 307]

This one went to three or more times what I had ever seen before. Can't help getting a bit nervous when the pressure gauge is showing several tons and it's still just sitting there, as if to say is that all you've got! Quite a relief when it finally went.

 

[ovenpaa]

I've "liked" this because people should realise that WD40 is a Water-displacer, and nothing else: it is NOT a lubricant, nor is it a penetrant, and if used as a honing oil it will gum-up the oilstone and defeat the object of a honing-oil; which is to keep the oilstone free of metal particles.

I wholeheartedly agree here. I am sure WD40 has many worthwhile uses and we even buy it in for the workshop for one very specific purpose, however it is pretty much hopeless for preserving things or preventing rust for any period of time.

 

[keithy1959]

Well it's off !! I had to get an angle grinder to it in the end. The flange that the saw blade rests up to has a slight recess, so the bearing inner race was tight up against it and was never going to allow anything in between to pull it off.
The blade flange appears to be just pushed on the shaft, and is never going to come off (or more importantly go back on) without significantly more time and resources that I have to spend on this, so I am going to have to push the bearing on from the other end of the shaft. I don't know if it was designed that way, but it seems odd to press a bearing onto the left hand end over the machined surface, and then off again into the centre part of the shaft, but the middle bit is slightly smaller in diameter, so who knows ?


This all just reminds me why I prefer working with wood !!

Richard