How do I remove this bearing

[keithy1959]

Hi, I'm trying to renovate an old table saw, and I cannot get the bearing off the arbor. The bearing itself is rough, so as soon as the replacement ones arrive I am happy to break this one. I've tried loads of release agent and WD40, and have cleaned it up, but I can't get it to budge. I have hammers and drifts, but no engineering tools.
As far as I can see, there is no easy way to get the blade holder off the shaft either ( if indeed it comes off at all - I assume its a single machined casting ? )

What is the safest way to get that bearing off without damaging the arbor ?

TIA
Richard

 

[Fitzroy]

I had a stubborn one like that when I renovated mine, I slit the races with an angle grinder.

 

[LJM]

Bearing puller

 

[Ozi]

I have done similar jobs with an angle grinder but be careful, the outer is easy enough make the cut as sharp as you can and split with a chisel. the inner can be really tricky as you have to cut diagonally and need to get right to the edge to be able to split it. Do you have a good vice, a steady hand and a sharp chisel - all 3 or don't go there. Plus goggles!

 

[deema]

I’m not certain, but that looks like a Sedgwick LK spindle. If it is the flange is held on by a taper pin. I knock out the taper pin, remove the flange and then just pull off the bearing with a bearing puller.
If the flange isn’t pinned on, you need a bearing splitter which has two clam shells that bolt around the bearing to enable it to be pulled off. They can be bought on eBay for around £25

 

[ovenpaa]

Some heat then a bearing puller (It may have been glued into place). For the future, WD40 serves no purpose for such a job, look for PlusGas which is far more effective at freeing up rusted nuts, stuck bearings etc.

 

[keithy1959]

Thanks guys. Its actually off a Tysack Table saw, and I cant see any sign of any find of pin to suggest its removable. I'll see if I can find a bearing puller. PlusGas Noted ! Thanks again

 

[Fergie 307]

You will need a puller with very narrow feet for that. The proper ones come with a cage that allows you to clamp the jaws tightly on the bearing so they don't slip off. A cheap one probably may not have that, a good substitute is to use an old fashioned g clamp to hold the jaws around it. You can grind the jaws thinner if you need to go get a better fit, just don't overdo it or they will break. Alternatively you may be able to grind a couple of slots in the outer track This one is on flea bay, cheap enough not to worry too much of you needed to redesign it ! US Pro tools do a good one too, with sliding jaws for adjustment, but more pricey. When you have the new bearing be sure to fit it correctly or you will damage it. So fit the new one to the shaft using a tube so you are only pressing on the inner race.

 

[okeydokey]

I have taken similar tasks to my local 1 man (maybe 2) garage who have a selection of pullers and have easily removed bearings £5.

 

[keithy1959]

You will need a puller with very narrow feet for that. The proper ones come with a cage that allows you to clamp the jaws tightly on the bearing so they don't slip off. A cheap one probably may not have that, a good substitute is to use an old fashioned g clamp to hold the jaws around it. You can grind the jaws thinner if you need to go get a better fit, just don't overdo it or they will break. Alternatively you may be able to grind a couple of slots in the outer track This one is on flea bay, cheap enough not to worry too much of you needed to redesign it ! US Pro tools do a good one too, with sliding jaws for adjustment, but more pricey. When you have the new bearing be sure to fit it correctly or you will damage it. So fit the new one to the shaft using a tube so you are only pressing on the inner race.

I actually bought the USPro one from Amazon for that Wolf Drill I am also working on, but the jaws were much thicker than the spec, and the machining was so poor that the jaws would not move down the slots. I would be happy to fettle a £6 ebay special, but not one for £20 so it went back.
I am going to have to make something to pull it as the shaft is too long to put a standard puller on there - something with all thread and bits of scrap metal I suspect.
With regard to putting the bearing back one, I had thought that the bearing was pushed into the casting, and the shaft just goes through, as the other bearing came off reasonably easily - I think the one is simply rusted on there. - I'll find out when it's finally off !!

Thanks again for all this great advice.
Richard

 

[pgrbff]

Bearing puller easiest and safest. May be more economical to get your garage to do it if you don't think you'll need the puller again.

 

[Fergie 307]

Ok. Another way of doing it if you have a decent vice. Get two pieces of steel rod, something fairly soft like a 4 or 6 inch nails is good. Clamp in the vice with the nails in the slot between the bearing and arbour, so the vice is clamping on the nails. Now tap the long end of the shaft and you will hopefully move the bearing up the shaft. If that doesn't enable you to get it all the way off, then at least you have created a gap. You can then do the same but with bits of angle either side in the vice. Or as Okey dokey says, take it to your friendly local garage. On the subject of US Pro tools I have found them to be pretty good for relatively cheap tools, the puller I have is certainly quite well made. Was it a reputable seller as there are a lot of fakes about. See them all the time at the big markets.

 

[Fergie 307]

As for the bearing you may well be right. The important thing is not to put any significant load between the two races when installing it as that will damage it.

 

[Fergie 307]

In fact if you have an angle grinder then use the nails but just grind slots in the outer track of the bearing for the nails to sit in. They just enable you to grip it without it sliding through the jaws.of the vice.

 

[Daniel2]

Chances are that your local friendly garage will have a press.
They will just press it off. If you have the new bearing with you,
they can simply press it on. Job done in under 10 minutes,
and the least stress on the new bearing.

 

[Fergie 307]

Definitely one of those situations where you would like to get hold of the original designer, and give them a sharp kick. No reason I can see why the arbour couldn't have had a shoulder on the back to create a gap to facilitate removing the bearing.

 

[Fergie 307]

Chances are that your local friendly garage will have a press.
They will just press it off. If you have the new bearing with you,
they can simply press it on. Job done in under 10 minutes,
and the least stress on the new bearing.

That is undoubtedly the easiest solution, assuming they have the correct size tools. The method I described does work, I recently used it on a very similar set up, the roller shaft on an old 24 inch mower. I have a press and goodness knows how many different pullers and collets/bearing clamps, but sods law nothing the correct size for this particular job. I just cut narrow slots in either side of the outer track with a 4 inch disc cutter and a couple of mangled nails later it was off.

 

[Daniel2]

That is undoubtedly the easiest solution, assuming they have the correct size tools. The method I described does work, I recently used it on a very similar set up, the roller shaft on an old 24 inch mower. I have a press and goodness knows how many different pullers and collets/bearing clamps, but sods law nothing the correct size for this particular job. I just cut narrow slots in either side of the outer track with a 4 inch disc cutter and a couple of mangled nails later it was off.

As you say, no matter how many clamps, pullers, bits of tube, etc we have, you
still never seem to have just the right bit. Ha ha ...
From where I'm standing, getting the old bearing off is quite straightforward.
I was looking more towards assembling the new bearing in a safe (for the bearing),
manner.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

just an idea ...........

 

[Limey Lurker]

Some heat then a bearing puller (It may have been glued into place). For the future, WD40 serves no purpose for such a job, look for PlusGas which is far more effective at freeing up rusted nuts, stuck bearings etc.

I've "liked" this because people should realise that WD40 is a Water-displacer, and nothing else: it is NOT a lubricant, nor is it a penetrant, and if used as a honing oil it will gum-up the oilstone and defeat the object of a honing-oil; which is to keep the oilstone free of metal particles.