How do I best plane this?

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Andy Kev.

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Here are three pictures of a piece of Black Amerian Walnut which formed the end of a board. It was rough sawn and of course the plane revealed the grain. While this strong rippling is visually delightful, it is very hard going and I still have to get the piece flat. I obviously want to lose as little wood as possible and because of the extraordinary 3D effect of the grain (the photos don't do it justice) I want to resaw this into 2 or 3 thinnish panels and use them in something special. So it's a matter of flattening (while keeping tear out to a minimum - you can see some onone of the pictures) and then getting the surface in tip top shape. Any tips? Is this going to end up being a scraper job?

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I would use a very very sharp plane with the cap iron set really close to the cutting edge and take a really fine shaving. To get it flat as MINGAL sad plane straight across the grain. You're right the grain is wonderful on that.

Matt
 
Andy I would just try setting the cap iron close. In my profile pic is the "wood from hell" the-wood-from-hell-t43540.html that Rob let me try out a few Months back. I used a standard Stanley #4 with standard iron, sharpened on an India stone and finished with a strop. The cap iron sorted it very well. Good luck!
 
Gentlemen,

thanks for your replies. The sharpest iron in the world and a closed up cap iron it is.

Kalimna, thanks for making me aware of the sander possibility but it would be a last resort (if I had access to one) because it would feel like cheating. I want to solve this problem by hand if at all possible.

Graham, I saw the "Wood From Hell" clip some time ago but I'd forgotten all about it. I think that piece, once planed, should have been framed and put in a museum.

I'm going to take this fairly slowly so as to get it right. Incidentally, I think the next bit of board (from the same original long board) might be even more dramatic but I've not taken a plane to that yet.
 
Cap iron set close. It doesn't even need to be hair splitting sharp, the cap iron just needs to be set at the right distance so that when you take a shaving in the 3 thousandth area or so, it straightens out.

You can follow that up with a couple of passes of thinner shavings and have a surface that will please you.
 
The alternative to a standard plane is a scraper plane which will (guaranteed) without tear out tackle any unruly or difficult grained wood. I particularly like the Veritas plane, but there are vintage planes as well as other brands if you want to buy one. Hand held scrapers can be used and are as cheap as chips.....an old saw (not hard point) produces a lot of scaper blanks!
 
That's interesting. I recently got about eight or ten cubic feet of rippled black walnut, it's not that common in the US let alone in Europe, so it's quite a co-incidence that we're both dealing with this wood at the same time.

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I planed the board in the photo and a couple of others. I put fresh knives in my planer/thicknesser and it planed very cleanly with no tear out. And there were no problems planing it by hand with a 50 degree frog and a sharp iron. I've also taken some saw cut veneer from it at just under 3mm thickness and again it was very well behaved on the bandsaw, I then took it down to about 1.8mm on the drum sander with 80 grit paper, I'll finish it down to about 1.5mm with finer grits on an orbital sander. So far it's staying flat, the edges are easy to shoot, and you couldn't ask for a better mannered piece of wood!

I expected to have to use a special set of planer/thicknesser knives that I keep with a ten degree back bevel, plus a bevel up plane set at a 65 degree angle, these are what I often use on heavily figured timbers, but so far none of that has been necessary. Sharp tools and fine cuts have been all that's required.

I've also been working my through a number of projects recently that used equally heavily rippled English Walnut, and that was also fairly straight forward, it needed a little bit of scraping around some feather figure but quite a bit less than I often have to deal with on other timbers. Walnut, as long as it's not out and out burr, is a pretty accommodating timber, so if you're having problems it's likely to be something simple like your tools just aren't sharp enough.

Good luck!
 

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Custard - good lord that is beautiful walnut! If you happen to have any spare that could be milled into guitar wood (acoustic or electric), I would be quite happy to negotiate a price....

Andy - I quite understand, and it's something that I've tried to adhere to in the past, however some unruly reversing-grain afrormosia and purpleheart have beats me...

Cheers,
Adam
 
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