How are you supposed to remove these screws?

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pgrbff

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The blade was loose and I managed to remove one screw with time. It would seem neither screw has a serrated shank so both just turn in the hole.
I would prefer not to have to glue something onto the nut side as I think it will be difficult to clean the image up afterwards.
How were they supposed to be removed or tightened without serrations on the shank?

saw1.JPGsaw2.JPG
 
Can you use 2 small clamps and clamp a piece of wood across the medallion (clamping the medallion to the handle) and then undo the screw
 
good idea, maybe a piece of silicon mat as well between medallion and piece of wood.
But when I put them back? what is going to stop them from turning?
 
The other screw was neither tapered nor serrated, it took patience and some luck to get it out. We'll see if the medallion is tapered when I get it out.
 
Not really supposed to be removed at all. Can be tightened if necessary either with a notched screwdriver or failing that a hammer and punch.
 
Not really supposed to be removed at all. Can be tightened if necessary either with a notched screwdriver or failing that a hammer and punch.
The blade is loose and both screws are spinning. Should I leave the blade loose?
Why notched, or the hammer and punch? As shown in the image it's a plain slot.
 
The blade is loose and both screws are spinning. Should I leave the blade loose?
Why notched, or the hammer and punch? As shown in the image it's a plain slot.
Right . I didn't look at the pic.
 
The blade was loose and I managed to remove one screw with time. It would seem neither screw has a serrated shank so both just turn in the hole.
I would prefer not to have to glue something onto the nut side as I think it will be difficult to clean the image up afterwards.
How were they supposed to be removed or tightened without serrations on the shank?

View attachment 118542View attachment 118543
Is that a washer under the black screw? I don't think that screw is original to the saw. It looks like it might be steel where the medallion looks like brass - check with a magnet. Most screws on hand saws are all the same size, even the one that holds on the medallion. That black screw looks much larger than the hole for the screw you have already removed. When you finally get the black screw off, you may find it was forced onto the medallion and may not be the right threads per inch or the right length. You may have to salvage a medallion and screw from another saw. Or just look for a better saw unless this one has sentimental value.
 
The sort of screwdriver we used to make for adjusting old motorbike clutch presure springs, mine was an old wood chisel around 3/4ins with a rough notch cut out of it,,,specialist tools and all that!
Steve.
 
Notched isn’t needed as it’s a plain slotted screw (rather than the split nuts typically seen on older saws)
 
Is that a washer under the black screw? I don't think that screw is original to the saw. It looks like it might be steel where the medallion looks like brass - check with a magnet. Most screws on hand saws are all the same size, even the one that holds on the medallion. That black screw looks much larger than the hole for the screw you have already removed. When you finally get the black screw off, you may find it was forced onto the medallion and may not be the right threads per inch or the right length. You may have to salvage a medallion and screw from another saw. Or just look for a better saw unless this one has sentimental value.
Screws are original. I've had the saw from new.
 
Can you not make a screwdriver to suit. I'm thinking perhaps an old chisel or similar with a wide enough blade and grind it down to the correct size. Usually loads of knackered old chisels at my local car boot.
No car boots here, and I'm fairly remote. The back of a stanley knife blade fits perfectly but is too brittle, it's a very narrow slot.
 
Pgrbff, are the saw nuts threaded or push fit types ? , some old saw nuts that have slots, were push fit types, not designed to be tightened with a slot driver. If push fit, then to tighten may not be permanent, try tapping then down. The shallow slot suggests push fit.
If they are threaded, to hold the medallion tight, two small blocks of wood, one with a cut out to allow the slotted side of the saw nut to be accessed, clamp to each side of the handle over the medallion.
Replacement threaded dome saw nuts can be bought online, probably won’t match exactly the original, but will allow you to tighten the handle to the plate.
 
They are both threaded and both out now. Small piece of mdf with silicon sheet held with clamps did the job.
It’s in its way to the saw doctor for sharpening.
 
Broken Hacksaw blade plus mole grips .used industrial broken blades trapped in electrical metal conduit to screw hundreds of self tappers when I first started work installing sheet metal ductwork..
 
I have had a lot of success with a speed clamp. Take the plastic grip out of one side and you have a hole where the plastic grip clips in. Put this over the screw and the remaining plastic grip (and a piece of leather if required)over the medallion. Clamp. Screwdriver through the empty side, the plastic/leather holds the medallion and you can turn the screw.
 

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