Horses for courses.

Sam_Jack · 30 Aug 2017

Half a year back I had to tackle some hardwood joists (unknown variety) in a cellar; dark and awkward. No way to get in there with a power saw and the sulky glint of old iron could be seen lurking, waiting for a blade to wreck. So, I bought a S&J ‘Predator’ for AU$ 30 and believed I could stand the loss and have no qualms throwing it away. Mystery – I find I like the thing, the blade is a little too flexible for my taste – but apart from that; it rips, cross-cuts and generally performs vet well indeed and is still very sharp. When I first discovered that it had retained it’s cutting ability after the awful hardwood job, I admit to deliberately setting out to ‘kill’ the thing off, but it just keeps coming back for more. So it has earned a place within my ‘cared’ for second row tools.

I own a few very, very good saws and can, when the mood descends ‘touch – up’ the edges. But; I don’t mess about with ‘set’ and jointing and sharpening – I send ‘em off to those as really know what they are about; costs about the same as my S&J. I don’t begrudge the money and the results are excellent. So, I end up keeping them ‘for best’ using the second string for general work – which I sharpen, tune & set myself (with varying degrees of success). But, looking now at the S&J hanging on it’s hook I wonder whether to give up my amateur saw doctoring for general use tools and just buy ‘off the peg’ to suit purpose?

I can’t see me throwing out any of the existing; but, I keep looking at the box with the ‘saw doctor’ kit inside and wondering if that space may not be used for a better purpose. Subjective, I know, but I begrudge the time taken to ‘sharpen up’ a work saw at the start of a job. Maybe it’s just a guilty conscience; or basic bone idleness – thoughts?

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) · 31 Aug 2017

I own a few very, very good saws and can, when the mood descends ‘touch – up’ the edges. But; I don’t mess about with ‘set’ and jointing and sharpening – I send ‘em off to those as really know what they are about; costs about the same as my S&J. I don’t begrudge the money and the results are excellent.

Sam, where about in Oz are you? If you are my way, I'd be happy to show you how to joint, sharpen and set saws. It really is not rocket science once you know how, and have the right equipment.

At the recent Perth Wood Show, which comes around once each year, I usually get together with Chris Vesper on his stand (he comes over from Melbourne to stay with us). This year he brought along a stock of NOS (last sold in 1998) 5" Nicholson needle files. These were the best I have ever seen (I grabbed a box for myself). I spend 2 days sharpening backsaws. Amazing the number of people passing by who were fascinated with the process.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Sam_Jack · 31 Aug 2017

Cheers Derek; alas I’m in Sydney – far, far away. Perhaps if I explained; I was taught at an early age to ‘doctor’ a saw. I can do it – but (big BUT) its not a thing I ‘enjoy’ (for want of better). ‘Patchy’ is the best way to describe it; glass of ale, workshop clean and tidy, in the right frame of mind – I do very well. It’s only when I ‘loose’ count or place that the rot sets in. Purely a ‘personal’ thing, lack of keen interest. Planes, chisels, router and some ancient moulding plane irons, all immaculate, sharp and clean – work like a dream and I enjoy every minute spent; but ‘doing’ the saws without a cricket match to listen to – can go either way. I hate to butcher a working tool and the corrections seem to take so long – I’ve even put ‘em back on the rack with a chalk mark ‘attend to later’.

For example - I have a lovely Disston dovetail saw in the ‘second’ row; a pleasure to use but I experimented with a $20 ‘Irwin’ of similar size – it did what was asked of it – neatly – without fuss and for day to-day stuff, it works just fine. Couldn’t use it on ‘top draw’ timber or job; but for general use, I reach for it often now – to spare me sharpening the Disston (again).

I don’t feel there is anything wrong in using the ‘off-the-peg’ saws for routine stuff, I know they cannot replace the top line saws I own or match ‘performance’; but golly, the notion of a third option is alluring. As said, horses for courses – I’m probably just slack and feeling a little guilty. Am I betraying my craft? Course not, I’ll use a power tool whenever I need to (even a router sometimes) but it ‘feels’ strange. No doubt I’ll get over it; sooner than I should. :wink:

D_W · 31 Aug 2017

Hard tooth saws are very practical and capable. I don't like them for ripping, but I don't think that I can sharpen a vintage saw to out cut them, and I love vintage saws and sharpening them. I've found the western hard tooth saws here to be a bit hard on the back side of a cut, but you can't beat them for breaking down hardwood stock crosscut.

If you like them and they work well, you can't get ookh more proof of utility.

As for loss of place in sharpening, it sounds like you just need a jar of dykem.

woodbrains · 31 Aug 2017

Hello,

Perhaps save the task of sharpening saws that cannot be bought with induction hardened teeth, such as dovetail saws and backsaws in general. If the hardpoint handsaws do the job, and IMHO they generally do most jobs I use a handsaw for, then maybe just continue with those. The saw you mention come in at least 3 different tpi versions and cover most jobs apart from aggressive ripping of thick stock, and TBH cost so little, it is almost ridiculous not to use them. I'm not sure how much 30 Aussie dollars equates to, but over here, you can get them for under 10 pounds and I buy them when they are on offer in the local DIY shed for buy one get one free. You can't buy saw files for this money and these are essentially disposable too.

Mike.