horizontal boarded door

[murdoch]

Hi all, got some advice a while ago on how to make a horizontal boarded door. Finished a few weeks ago and thought I'd show it as their a bit different. Looks really pukka in real life and its a shame that the photos don't do it justice. I made another without a sidelight as well but it was getting too dark to take a photo.

The door is 62mm thick overall. It was constructed by making a 26mm accoya frame which was domino'd together. 26mm celotex was then cut to fit between all rails and styles except where the vision panel was to go. 12mm tricoya was then stuck either side along with a 6mm english oak veener. It was then lipped all round with 10mm oak. ironmongery was a 1400mm stainless steel pull with a winkhaus automatic multi point lock and a stormgaurd cill. Finally, they were finished in sikkens filter 7 and cetol med oak.

I was supposed to use a glue press at another company to glue the doors together but it was in use so i ended up making one myself using a flat concrete floor, some 8x4 mdf and 4 half tonne bags of grain! worked a treat.

made a mistake and the first 3 WIP pics are in reverse order.

hope you all like them

 

[RobinBHM]

Fantastic piece of joinery, many thanks for sharing

 

[n0legs]

Good work =D>

 

[HOJ]

Superb job,

And good timing, been trying to work out how Urban Front make doors, got to make similar style panels all in Accoya, think I will now use Tricoya and replicate the V grooves, rather than make separate TGV boards, they will be painted.

Without giving away too many trade secrets, which glue did you use for laminating, did you make the 6mm Oak veneer, any more details on the lipping?

Cheers

Paul

 

[murdoch]

Thanks HOJ

We always use cascamite for any exterior work and especially laminating. It has a good open time, is the most water resistant and is not flexible so holds veneers firm without letting them move. We made the 6mm veneer by resawing 20mm stock down the center and then simply planing to 6mm. The chamfers for the v grooves we added on a spindle moulder before glueing together. The lippings are straight forward. we plane the oak to the same width as the door and 20mm wide, we then added the tongues on with a spindle moulder followed by grooving the doors all the way around the doors to accept the tongues. They were then stuck on with cascamite.

You dont want to see the lipping from the outside so you will need to measure the frame and cut the door to the right size before adding the lipping.

Any questions then fire away, not too keen on trade secrets, prefer to help one another out, cheers

 

[HOJ]

Thank you, fully understand the process, have a couple of projects lined up where I can adopt these methods, best I get on to Lathams for my Tricoya.

Cheers

Paul

 

[Waka]

Really nice looking door.

 

[dombarber]

Really great advice and ideas there, thanks for sharing. I like how you have weighted them.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

Fantastic, i think i remember you asking about the doors!

I would go veneered accoya boarding ontop of tricoya than grooved accoya. The grooved tricoya looks very plastic like, especially when sprayed as there is no grain, whereas sanded accoya brings the grain out beautifully, as the wood between grain is so soft.

 

[Mcluma]

Very nice work

are there any rubber strips in the doors?

 

[kostello]

would you consider making any more of these???

if so can i send you some sizes for quote??


sasha