Hollowing tool

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shedhead

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South Ayrshire, South West, Scotland
I have had one of thoes days that ends with the shed door being locked and the key thrown to the back of the kitchen cupboard. I have had catch upon catch all day, when this happens it's best to give up for the day, if not for ever!!!!!!! :x :oops: :cry:

I have been happy making small boxes all week with some success, over the weekend i thought i would try a goblet with a captive ring. I have not been able to remove much wood without catching and digins. A spindle gouge with the wings swept back was the tool i used. What tool should i use to remove wood without too much stress. This for me did not work.

When i made the boxes i had the sides straight, but withgobletss i need a curved shape, this is where i had the problem. The spindle gouge kept catching no matter how i tried to shape the inside of the goblet.
Each catch i had was big enough to move the wood out of line in the chuck. So when i tried to replace it, the wood was not running true. I would then turn it back into line. This meant that by the end of the afternoon i was left with a blank the size of a pencil :oops:

Why oh why did i not take up knitting!!!!!!!!!

HELP IS NEEDED FAST.
 
Oh boy can I empathise with you. The best advice I got about this sort of thing was from Graham (Oldsoke) who said something along the lines of taking light cuts. I drill the centre out with a spindle gouge and then shear cut out from the centre gently holding the tool on the rest and pivoting it I also cut below centre. Don't know if you should but it works for me.
. My gouges are all hand sharpened by an idiot :oops: so are not exactly perfect but I usually manage OK now. (most of the time :lol: )

Pete
 
the trick with any end grain hollowing is to hollow from the inside out never try to go from the outside in, i use my normal 5/8 bowl gouge but you can also use a spindle gouge the technique is the same.

the learn with drill a hole down the centre to the depth required, then roll the gouge over so that the flute is facing the 9- clock, the cutting is done with the lower edge of the gouge the top edge should not touch somtimes you roll back slightly to avoid it touching, then you just start in your drilled hole and begin hollowing from the inside out.
depends how deep your going some spindle gouges will start to complain if you get too deep. once the majority is hollowed i then clean up with neg scrapers.

p.s this is how i do it but like allot of woodturning/woodworking techniques there are lots of diffrent ways to acheive the same goal. You have to find whats best for you.
 
Thanks Pete & Cornucopia, for your words of wisdom. It's good to know that what i was doing yesterday was along the right track. I just need to get over this fear of expecting a catch when i start again.
The shed keys are looking at me and saying " i dare you, go on open the shed and make an A**E of your self again today". :oops:

Will put this off till later Not had my Wheatabix yet.

Cornucopia what are neg scrapers????
 
He is referring to a scraper ground like this SH, Robert Sorby

Although you do not need such a long top bevel as shown on this commercial one, you can do the same with any scraper by just beveling the top couple of mm and there is no reason you can't go round the sides on a curved tool either.

hardwoodscraper1.jpg


It gives a similar effect to cutting below centre with the tool handle high and reduces the chance of catches.
 
:sign3: :lol:

yep negative rake scrapers are purley a finishing tool, there used direct from the grinder and a very very fine shaving is prodouced, on some hard woods a glass like finish can be acheived. if you google negative rake scraping you'll find it's linked closely to stuart batty which is where i first saw it being demonstrated by stuart at the awgb symposiom a few years ago.
its other main advantage is it doesnt catch like ordinary scrpers can.
heres my scrapers
DSCF4016.jpg

DSCF4017.jpg

DSCF4018.jpg

DSCF4019.jpg
 
Thanks for your sharing your time and experience, CHJ & Cornucopia.

To grind a neg rake scraper i will need to bevel the top of a scraper. Does it matter what angle the bevel is cut? And i just keep the same angle on the face of the scraper that i have already? about 80
 
no it dont matter that much
just remember its the burr raised by the grinder that does all the work, i tend to leave my grinder running and regulary top up the burr.
 
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