Hollow and Round sole forming

[steve355]

Can I order a set?

If you want to pay the commercial price for some novice made planes, be my guest

 

[steve355]

They look good! Accurate ish is good enough - any precision depends on the blade itself.

Definitely! In fact the round is probably the easiest thing in the whole process.

Thanks. There are quite a few imperfections in this one, not least that the auger bit went through the back of the mortise. So it’s the “sacrificial“ test plane, if I knacker it its not a Big deal.

I am struggling with it somewhat. It basically works, but it Is hard going and I’m not sure why. I’ve never used rounds before, perhaps it’s my technique, even though I’m starting with a nice rebate it is slipping all over the Place.

 

[Adam W.]

You need accuracy on the sole of the plane, because you shape the iron to match the sole when sharpening.
Matching the iron to the sole is vital if you want the plane to perform properly.

 

[steve355]

You need accuracy on the sole of the plane, because you shape the iron to match the sole when sharpening.
Matching the iron to the sole is vital if you want the plane to perform properly.

that was certainly a problem, but I have adjusted it to be much better. I’ve also honed the iron carefully, because it wasn’t sharp across the entire length of the cutting edge.

I will keep trying…

 

[Adam W.]

Did you use layout fluid to mark out the iron ?

 

[steve355]

Did you use layout fluid to mark out the iron ?

Yes, both for the initial scribing and then on the edge to grind the point.

One thing I haven’t done yet is harden the iron.

 

[steve355]

They look good! Accurate ish is good enough - any precision depends on the blade itself.

Definitely! In fact the round is probably the easiest thing in the whole process.

What I’m learning is that this isn’t as easy as one might think.

in use the cut starts off good, then starts to dig in. According to Matt Bickford (who knows) this is because the sole isn’t flat. Either there is a high spot behind the mouth, or at both ends. Checking with a straight edge, I see I have both - only about 10 thou (checked with feeler gauge) but it’s there. So I carefully go to work with sandpaper. The plane works beautifully…. Until I get towards a full width cut. Then it stops.

Check with the radius gauge, and it is no longer the original profile No 14 :-(

Matt Bickford and Larry Williams both in fact use rounds to profile their hollows and vice versa. Great when you already have a set, but I don’t.

I am back on making a curved sanding block. My son has a 3d printer, that might work.

 

[Adam W.]

There's nothing quite like a steep learning curve.

I think you're doing well and I'm sure that once you get it sussed, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

 

[steve355]

There's nothing quite like a steep learning curve.

I think you're doing well and I'm sure that once you get it sussed, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

For what it’s worth I have 3d printed a no 14 sanding block, with 0.012 allowance made for the sandpaper.

It took 6 hours to print. the base went a bit Pete Tong so I’ve set it going again.

My aim is to cast this in brass. Looks like it’ll do the trick though and I will get a nice accurate round.

 

[steve355]

Well, my 3d printed sanding blocks worked a treat and I have the sole flat to less than 0.004”, which is the thinnest feeler gauge I can find. I have honed the iron and I’m getting nice thin shavings now. But it’s still not quite right. It is skittering or chattering and still gets stuck from time to time.

I am thinking the next culprit is the bedding of the iron. I can unfortunately get the feeler gauge behind the iron. I guess I’d better go at that next.

Question - the blind side bevel doesn’t go right up to the mouth. I am guessing I need to plane this so it does? Else it will act as a depth stop?

any advice welcome.


Steve

 

[Jacob]

Question - the blind side bevel doesn’t go right up to the mouth. I am guessing I need to plane this so it does? Else it will act as a depth stop?

Yes

 

[Adam W.]

Well, my 3d printed sanding blocks worked a treat and I have the sole flat to less than 0.004”, which is the thinnest feeler gauge I can find. I have honed the iron and I’m getting nice thin shavings now. But it’s still not quite right. It is skittering or chattering and still gets stuck from time to time.

I am thinking the next culprit is the bedding of the iron. I can unfortunately get the feeler gauge behind the iron. I guess I’d better go at that next.

Question - the blind side bevel doesn’t go right up to the mouth. I am guessing I need to plane this so it does? Else it will act as a depth stop?

any advice welcome.


Steve

I have some new old H&R's and it's about 1/2mm shy of the edge.

 

[Jacob]

I have some new old H&R's and it's about 1/2mm shy of the edge.

View attachment 137052

But the blade will all be proud of the sole, will it not, if you squint down the length from the toe?
PS Come to think - a hollow or round is different from rebate or moulding planes in that the the H&Rs are moved about and cut the sides of a hollow wider than the plane whereas the others are used on a fixed line to deepen the same profile.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Yes

No

 

[Adam W.]

LOL!

 

[steve355]

No

Well I’ve done it now.

 

[Adam W.]

But the blade will all be proud of the sole, will it not, if you squint down the length from the toe?
PS Come to think - a hollow or round is different from rebate or moulding planes in that the the H&Rs are moved about and cut the sides of a hollow wider than the plane whereas the others are used on a fixed line to deepen the same profile.

Yes, they get moved about a bit like carving, so any lip or edge that forms gets removed by the next pass and they are always cutting a fresh profile.

 

[steve355]

I have some new old H&R's and it's about 1/2mm shy of the edge.

View attachment 137052

That iron looks good - consistent and sharp. I am struggling to get mine like that. What technique did you use?

 

[Adam W.]

That iron looks good - consistent and sharp. I am struggling to get mine like that. What technique did you use?

I'm fortunate that they were sharpened by the maker, so they were professionally done. All I did was to give it a bit of a touch up and a little strop.

Larry Williams has a good video on sharpening profiled cutters, which would give you much better advice than I could ever offer.

 

[Jacob]

No

Yes I was guessing!