High grit sanding disk assortment

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Wend

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Hi folks,

I have a Mirka DEROS, and with it came boxes of 60, 120 and 180 150mm disks. However, for some projects, I'd like to be able to go up to higher grits. I'd guess that 1 or perhaps 2 of each grit would do me for the foreseeable future. Unfortunately, it looks like the world mostly wants to sell me either large packs of a single grit, or mixed packs of low grits (half of which overlap with what I already have).

Even outside of abranet, the only thing I've managed to find so far is a rather cheap offering from China via eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6in-Sanding- ... 1651640360
I guess that any hook and loop 150mm disks will work with the Mirka, so as long as they really have the grits claimed the only risk is these might not last very long; but given how much I intend to use them that probably isn't a show stopper anyway.

Before I have a punt, does anyone have any other ideas for where I might find this sort of thing, please?

Thanks
Wend
 
Ah, that's exactly what I was looking for! Many thanks, to you and to woodspinner6!
 
I avoid cheap Chinese sandpaper, the really cheap stuff tends to shed grit and it will get embedded in the workpiece, especially on open grained timbers such as Oak or Ash. I always lean towards Mirka, Siawood, Klingspor or Wurth brands.

You really don't need to go any higher than say 320 grit on bare timber, as soon as you apply a finish on a very smooth, sanded surface it will instantly go rough when the grain raises. You can, however, use the finer grades on the finishes such as shellac or varnish between coats to get a smooth final surface.

This company on eBay can do a custom mix for you for one or more of each grit, just select the "any grit mix" from their drop down and send them a message along with your order of which grades you want.
 
I've never sanded wood even to 320 grit. I think 180 is the finest I've found need for. As Trevanion says, though, de-nibbing between coats of finish requires finer (but not generally a ROS), and anyone using epoxy resin fillers in their woodwork will need to be sanding a lot finer than that. I've seen mention of grits as fine as 3000 for that.
 
Trevanion":1eofgglq said:
I avoid cheap Chinese sandpaper, the really cheap stuff tends to shed grit and it will get embedded in the workpiece, especially on open grained timbers such as Oak or Ash. I always lean towards Mirka, Siawood, Klingspor or Wurth brands.

You really don't need to go any higher than say 320 grit on bare timber, as soon as you apply a finish on a very smooth, sanded surface it will instantly go rough when the grain raises. You can, however, use the finer grades on the finishes such as shellac or varnish between coats to get a smooth final surface.

This company on eBay can do a custom mix for you for one or more of each grit, just select the "any grit mix" from their drop down and send them a message along with your order of which grades you want.
You are a legend fella! Thankyou! I was swapping sanding disks back and forth today, down to my last two! (Tramp!) Making a fireplace thing out of oak and cherry for the stone rabbit carving to keep the Mrs happy. Yeh. I know right. How strange this should come up tonight.
On the subject, the black hooky material is starting to peel off my ROS. Any solutions known by the greater good that I am unaware of?
 
Bm101":k0ae7t8i said:
On the subject, the black hooky material is starting to peel off my ROS. Any solutions known by the greater good that I am unaware of?

It's a common problem. Eventually, they wear out and the bases need to be replaced and that really depends on what your particular machine is. A new base usually somewhere between £10 - £30 depending on the manufacturer and are usually pretty easy to swap over. If yours is only peeling and the hooks haven't lost their grip it might be worth trying to glue it back down with some super glue to try and extend it's life somewhat to avoid spending, after all... Aren't we all trampy misers in our own way? :D I've even superglued the discs to the sander before once the hooks had totally lost grip just to get that little bit of extra moneys worth.

The worst thing for the life of a ROS base is sanding radiuses and edges and generally work where the sander isn't just sanding a flat surface. It's an absolute necessity for what I do but it's best avoided if you want to not be changing out bases every couple of months. I've found that the pad protectors don't really help (perhaps they do marginally) unless you're using Abranets, I've tried them and the main base still wears out in about the same time. But my use is a little on the extreme side compared to how most would be using their machine :lol:
 
MikeG.":34i70xjn said:
I've never sanded wood even to 320 grit. I think 180 is the finest I've found need for. As Trevanion says, though, de-nibbing between coats of finish requires finer (but not generally a ROS), and anyone using epoxy resin fillers in their woodwork will need to be sanding a lot finer than that. I've seen mention of grits as fine as 3000 for that.

Generally I'm a fan of sanding as little as I can get away with (and far less than I ought to), but in this case I was trying to do some pyrography on something, and the pen was finding all sorts of bumps and valleys. Perhaps I just hadn't been patient enough at 180, but either way going to higher grits can only help.

Thanks
Wend
 
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