HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

[[email protected]]

I have a itech planer thicknesser. It has been moved by someone in the workshop and now it’s way out of level. I have put a picture below of the machine. What I really need is a wizard to come and have a look at it. I’m happy to pay generously as I need it back up and running as quick as. Can anybody help or know someone that can. I am based to Surrey ( charlwood) happy to cover fuel, I’ll buy you lunch!

many thanks

Luke Williams

bespoke living interiors

[email protected]
07736550666

 

[Terrytpot]

As far as I know the iTech stuff is all imported by Woodworking Machinery For Sale | Buy New + Used Machines | Scott+Sargeant UK and as they're based @
Scott+Sargeant Woodworking Machinery Ltd., 1 Blatchford Rd, Horsham, RH13 5QR, ENGLAND and not a million miles from you maybe giving them a holler might be productive. Fairly sure they have an account on this forum actually..yup.. under the name "ScottandSargeant"

 

[[email protected]]

As far as I know the iTech stuff is all imported by Woodworking Machinery For Sale | Buy New + Used Machines | Scott+Sargeant UK and as they're based @
Scott+Sargeant Woodworking Machinery Ltd., 1 Blatchford Rd, Horsham, RH13 5QR, ENGLAND and not a million miles from you maybe giving them a holler might be productive. Fairly sure they have an account on this forum actually..yup.. under the name "ScottandSargeant"

There really not very good at sorting this kind of thing out, and its a nightmare getting them to come out. Customer service not great they have been out before to look at the panel saw, but the guy never got back to me and didn’t know anything about planers.

 

[Mead Camans]

So what you've got there is a Griggio, much more upmarket than an Itech, and by the looks of it, a near clone of the SCM we used to have at my old work, which was always going out of level. Makes me think it could be a design flaw in the bed adjustment system...

The best way to get it fixed is to have a go at it yourself! Then you'll learn how to do it and not have to fork out for an engineer every time. It's really not that hard.

Forgive me if the following sounds patronising at times.

First port of call is to check the beds are actually locked down! Sounds obvious but it's a good place to start. The silver handle beside the front bed is the one up check.

If that's all good and the beds are tight down, then get a nice long straight edge and check the beds are definitely level by raising the front one up to 0mm and putting it across both. If you've got a gap anywhere along that's more than a mm or two, then it's time to adjust the beds.

If the machine was moved by yanking on the beds, then it could well have thrown then out of level. A pallet trolley is a much better option.

Look under the outfeed bed for the height adjust, which should be a small plain metal bar with something like a bolt and grub screw holding it in place, possibly on the right hand side. This works in exactly the same way as the front bed height adjust only it never (or should never!) gets used. If you loosen off the bolt/grub screw (I forget exactly how it works) holding it in place, you can raise it lower the height of the outfeed bed. Do this until your straight edge has no gaps.

Hope that helps in some way.

George

 

[[email protected]]

So what you've got there is a Griggio, much more upmarket than an Itech, and by the looks of it, a near clone of the SCM we used to have at my old work, which was always going out of level. Makes me think it could be a design flaw in the bed adjustment system...

The best way to get it fixed is to have a go at it yourself! Then you'll learn how to do it and not have to fork out for an engineer every time. It's really not that hard.

Forgive me if the following sounds patronising at times.

First port of call is to check the beds are actually locked down! Sounds obvious but it's a good place to start. The silver handle beside the front bed is the one up check.

If that's all good and the beds are tight down, then get a nice long straight edge and check the beds are definitely level by raising the front one up to 0mm and putting it across both. If you've got a gap anywhere along that's more than a mm or two, then it's time to adjust the beds.

If the machine was moved by yanking on the beds, then it could well have thrown then out of level. A pallet trolley is a much better option.

Look under the outfeed bed for the height adjust, which should be a small plain metal bar with something like a bolt and grub screw holding it in place, possibly on the right hand side. This works in exactly the same way as the front bed height adjust only it never (or should never!) gets used. If you loosen off the bolt/grub screw (I forget exactly how it works) holding it in place, you can raise it lower the height of the outfeed bed. Do this until your straight edge has no gaps.

Hope that helps in some way.

George

Hi thanks for this, we have been trying to work it out for the last few days, but not really knowing what to undo and and in what order had made it worse.
Thanks but we really need a technician to have a look at it.

 

[deema]

Let’s see if I can help. I’m based in Chester, so too far to come and have a hands on. But I’ve restored and setup a number of PT’s, but not this particular make / model. However, the process is always the same. Do you have a good straight edge and a clock on a stand? if you have a OneWay measure that would be perfect.
1. The spindle and the cutter block are fixed, so this is your primary reference. First off, use the clock to measure the height of the spindle body (find the maximum height of the spindle by moving the clock back and forth) at one side from the outfeed table. You do not measure the top of the blade, but the actual metal of the cutter block. Make a note, and without altering the measuring system, move it to the other end and measure again. These must be the same. If they are not, the first thing to do is level the front edge of the outfeed table to the spindle / cutter block.
Now I don’t know what blades you have in it / spiral block, or whether you can adjust the height of the outfeed table in a similar manner to how you adjust the infeed table. If you have controls to set the height of the outfeed table, ignore the step 3
2. Once you have the table level with the spindle, now measure from the outfeed table the height of the blades, you need to find the maximum height of the blades check at both ends of the blades. check all blades. They should be the same, if they arnt the same there is something wrong with the setting of the blades. Adjust to get them them all at the same height.
3. Adjust the projection of the blades so they are all correct.
4. bring the infeed table up so the front edge (closest to the cutter) is absolutely level with the front edge of the outfeed table. Use the clock to check. Check the ends and the middle, all the readings should be that same. If not, you have a problem with the infeed table. You need to adjust / remove, clean, shim to get the front edge level.
5, Once 4 is done, you now use the straight edge. Place the straight edge across both tables, moving the cutter block so it doesn’t interfere with the straight edge. The straight edge should touch both tables along its entire length. If not, one of the tables, usually the outfeed table will have a method of either raising or lowering the outside edge (furthest away from the cutter) to bring the two labels level with each other. Check the tables along both outer edges, and diagonally across the table. Each time you make any adjustment, start at step 1 again and check the tables are level at the front edge, and adjust if necessary. Depending on the design, adjusting the outside edge affects the inside edge. This is an iterative process, time consuming but after about three or four iterations you should be there.


Once the tables are level, blades set, front edges aligned with the spindle your good to go for surfacing. I’m assuming it’s the planing / surfacing tables that are the problem.

Good Luck.

 

[[email protected]]

Let’s see if I can help. I’m based in Chester, so too far to come and have a hands on. But I’ve restored and setup a number of PT’s, but not this particular make / model. However, the process is always the same. Do you have a good straight edge and a clock on a stand? if you have a OneWay measure that would be perfect.
1. The spindle and the cutter block are fixed, so this is your primary reference. First off, use the clock to measure the height of the spindle body (find the maximum height of the spindle by moving the clock back and forth) at one side from the outfeed table. You do not measure the top of the blade, but the actual metal of the cutter block. Make a note, and without altering the measuring system, move it to the other end and measure again. These must be the same. If they are not, the first thing to do is level the front edge of the outfeed table to the spindle / cutter block.
Now I don’t know what blades you have in it / spiral block, or whether you can adjust the height of the outfeed table in a similar manner to how you adjust the infeed table. If you have controls to set the height of the outfeed table, ignore the step 3
2. Once you have the table level with the spindle, now measure from the outfeed table the height of the blades, you need to find the maximum height of the blades check at both ends of the blades. check all blades. They should be the same, if they arnt the same there is something wrong with the setting of the blades. Adjust to get them them all at the same height.
3. Adjust the projection of the blades so they are all correct.
4. bring the infeed table up so the front edge (closest to the cutter) is absolutely level with the front edge of the outfeed table. Use the clock to check. Check the ends and the middle, all the readings should be that same. If not, you have a problem with the infeed table. You need to adjust / remove, clean, shim to get the front edge level.
5, Once 4 is done, you now use the straight edge. Place the straight edge across both tables, moving the cutter block so it doesn’t interfere with the straight edge. The straight edge should touch both tables along its entire length. If not, one of the tables, usually the outfeed table will have a method of either raising or lowering the outside edge (furthest away from the cutter) to bring the two labels level with each other. Check the tables along both outer edges, and diagonally across the table. Each time you make any adjustment, start at step 1 again and check the tables are level at the front edge, and adjust if necessary. Depending on the design, adjusting the outside edge affects the inside edge. This is an iterative process, time consuming but after about three or four iterations you should be there.


Once the tables are level, blades set, front edges aligned with the spindle your good to go for surfacing. I’m assuming it’s the planing / surfacing tables that are the problem.

Good Luck.

Very helpful thank you, I’ve got a technician coming at some point I’m going to watch him like a hawk ( he’ll love that) and hopefully be abit more confident if it happens again. It’s one of those things that once you see it done you understand it a lot better.

 

[doctor Bob]

Very helpful thank you, I’ve got a technician coming at some point I’m going to watch him like a hawk ( he’ll love that) and hopefully be abit more confident if it happens again. It’s one of those things that once you see it done you understand it a lot better.

I have a good set up, 4 sider, wide belt sander, 5 spindles, edgebander, altendorf saw etc etc. I started nearly 20 years ago and at the beginning if something went wrong with machines I invariably got an engineer / fitter out. After a while I realised it's not rocket science, it's logic and tracing back normally. The only time I now use outsiders is for electrical problems.
Parts are readily avaliable for most machines, RS components are great for bits and pieces. When you strip a machine just make sure you photograph every step, so you know rebuild order.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Some good advice above, this video might also help.

https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...me&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_5RLyX4G0M66D8gKf8ojQDA17

 

[[email protected]]

I have a good set up, 4 sider, wide belt sander, 5 spindles, edgebander, altendorf saw etc etc. I started nearly 20 years ago and at the beginning if something went wrong with machines I invariably got an engineer / fitter out. After a while I realised it's not rocket science, it's logic and tracing back normally. The only time I now use outsiders is for electrical problems.
Parts are readily avaliable for most machines, RS components are great for bits and pieces. When you strip a machine just make sure you photograph every step, so you know rebuild order.

I only have a few month of machine ownership behind me so it appears all abit to much in and amongst everything else. Hopefully I’ll get it sorted soon.

 

[rafezetter]

Deema - use a clock to measure???

 

[user22161]

This Woodwhisperer video may be worth watching - 118 - Jointer Setup - The Wood Whisperer

Oops, see this link was already posted by Peter.

 

[deema]

Rafezzetter
This is a OneWay being used to check the outfeed against the cutter block.

 

[Daniel2]

Rafezzetter
This is a OneWay being used to check the outfeed against the cutter block.
View attachment 100229

I'm usually mistaken, but shouldn't the dial gauge be comparing the blade tip to the outfeed table, and not the block ?

 

[pcb1962]

I'm usually mistaken, but shouldn't the dial gauge be comparing the blade tip to the outfeed table, and not the block ?

That comes later, first the machine needs to be all square