Help with the choice of a cabinet table saw

[Shankat]

Hi all
My first post so thank you for letting me join. I am hoping to learn a lot from the many experienced and knowledgable forum members, and perhaps share some of my own knowledge.
I have recently retired and have always been a hobbyist woodworker / Turner. Having recently moved I have the chance of building my dream workshop and one of the first things on my shopping list is a table saw. I would really be grateful for any first hand experience members have or recommendations anyone has for a table saw around the £1,000 - £1,300 price bracket. Ideally I want something that has the following
A cast iron table top
Induction motor
A full length fence
I appreciate that on this limited budget I’m looking at entry level machines but there are a lot out there but having lived with a cheap DIY tin thing for years I have a limited knowledge of what is available at this step up in price. I’ve done a lot of searching but I get a lot of mixed reviews , some of it obviously sponsored so I’m really hoping that the good forum members on here can give me some good unbiased guidance and advice.
many thanks and hope to repay in kind at some point.

 

[Ollie78]

Get a decent heavy old Startrite, Wadkin or something and then get an overhead crown guard with dust extraction.
Say ,£800 to £1000 for the saw £300 for a crown guard.
This solution will be a better saw than most new stuff at that price.
Get a good blade it makes a massive difference.

Ollie

 

[Cabinetman]

Hello and welcome and thinking of your happy days ahead in planning and fitting out your new workshop. Just mention that a full length fence probably shouldn’t be on your Wish List as it can cause problems with kick back, and let’s face it once the wood is cut you don’t really care where it goes as long as it’s not flying back towards you , but a fence that comes back towards you which you can push against before the wood hits the blade is far more valuable, what I’m saying is that a saw that has an adjustable fence is what you ought to be looking for. Ian
Ps I agree with Ollie 78.

 

[Shankat]

Get a decent heavy old Startrite, Wadkin or something and then get an overhead crown guard with dust extraction.
Say ,£800 to £1000 for the saw £300 for a crown guard.
This solution will be a better saw than most new stuff at that price.
Get a good blade it makes a massive difference.

Ollie

Thanks Ollie appreciate the heads up

 

[Shankat]

Hello and welcome and thinking of your happy days ahead in planning and fitting out your new workshop. Just mention that a full length fence probably shouldn’t be on your Wish List as it can cause problems with kick back, and let’s face it once the wood is cut you don’t really care where it goes as long as it’s not flying back towards you , but a fence that comes back towards you which you can push against before the wood hits the blade is far more valuable, what I’m saying is that a saw that has an adjustable fence is what you ought to be looking for. Ian
Ps I agree with Ollie 78.

Thanks cabinet man. Hadn’t thought of that. I had always assumed that a full length fence fixed at both ends would improve the accuracy of cut. Maybe not. I have an old contractor saw with about a 18 inch fence that just seems to move too much at the far end for my liking however as you have said, it’s the point of cutting impact that’s more important. Good point and hadn’t appreciated it before, thank you

 

[Ttrees]

Nothing wrong with a full length fence if one makes a sub fence,long fence good for tenon jigs and whatnot.
Nothing to do with sturdiness.
I bought my startrite left 'tilt arbor' 275 fancy ds version (sliding table)
for 500 quid,
I takes a 12" blade, has three phase motor, that is dual voltage (240 volt delta/triangle symbol) and can be run from 240v.
Its 3 hp/2.2kw, so with a hundred quid or fancier VFD/inverter can be ran from a domestic 3 pin plug.
A 3hp single phase motor would certainly be pushing it, as the split second startup is what is really hard on the supply, compared to easily adjustable ramp up time with VFD to suit it.

Its also got dual mitre slots, nice deep ones as the table is heavy, and a nice pocket to fit wooden zero clearance inserts .
and as expected on a European machine, a riving knife.

I think that is all the features that suits me.

If one was to better this, I would be looking for dual trunnions.
Been meaning to give my single one a thorough once over as it seemed to skew slightly when at 45, it may be adjustable somehow.


Tom

 

[danst96]

At your price bracket id recommend looking for a Scheppach 2500ci or Kity 1619 table saw with sliding table. Decent European made saws but relatively modern to be in decent condition and the benefit of a sliding table.

 

[RobinBHM]

Hi all
My first post so thank you for letting me join. I am hoping to learn a lot from the many experienced and knowledgable forum members, and perhaps share some of my own knowledge.
I have recently retired and have always been a hobbyist woodworker / Turner. Having recently moved I have the chance of building my dream workshop and one of the first things on my shopping list is a table saw. I would really be grateful for any first hand experience members have or recommendations anyone has for a table saw around the £1,000 - £1,300 price bracket. Ideally I want something that has the following
A cast iron table top
Induction motor
A full length fence
I appreciate that on this limited budget I’m looking at entry level machines but there are a lot out there but having lived with a cheap DIY tin thing for years I have a limited knowledge of what is available at this step up in price. I’ve done a lot of searching but I get a lot of mixed reviews , some of it obviously sponsored so I’m really hoping that the good forum members on here can give me some good unbiased guidance and advice.
many thanks and hope to repay in kind at some point.

There is a startrite table saw in Chelmsford for £250 on Facebook marketplace at mo.

And one in Chelmsford for £1k

I know loads of posts on here mention 2nd hand - that's because it's possible to buy a machine in your budget that would be miles outside your budget new.

Second hand will get you a cast table, strong fence that won't deflect, proper machined trunnions etc.

Look for startrite, multico, Wadkin etc

The main caveat is that most of the cheaper machines will be 3 phase, 240v stuff tends to sell at a premium.

If you want new, I'm not sure if there are itech machines from scott and sergeant in your price range.

 

[Doug B]

As Robin suggests with your budget I’d take a look at the Itech

https://www.scosarg.com/itech-250mm...8oIhlfeG0t_HXmgl05vQhPjMiYOCVpYRoC7p8QAvD_BwE
https://www.scosarg.com/itech-315mm-cast-iron-table-saw-bench
Old second hand cast Iron machines are wonderful when they are working, I started my workshop journey with 4 Wadkin machines but they’re not bomb proof as appears to be the common myth & unless you‘re of a mechanical & electrical persuasion they can end up being an expensive road to travel.

 

[Shankat]

At your price bracket id recommend looking for a Scheppach 2500ci or Kity 1619 table saw with sliding table. Decent European made saws but relatively modern to be in decent condition and the benefit of a sliding table.

Thanks danst96. I will take a closer look at these

 

[Shankat]

As Robin suggests with your budget I’d take a look at the Itech

https://www.scosarg.com/itech-250mm...8oIhlfeG0t_HXmgl05vQhPjMiYOCVpYRoC7p8QAvD_BwE
https://www.scosarg.com/itech-315mm-cast-iron-table-saw-bench
Old second hand cast Iron machines are wonderful when they are working, I started my workshop journey with 4 Wadkin machines but they’re not bomb proof as appears to be the common myth & unless you‘re of a mechanical & electrical persuasion they can end up being an expensive road to travel.

Thanks Doug. I have looked at the i tech before, will need to take a closer look

 

[recipio]

Beware that table saws consume a lot of shed space. If you want to cut 8 x4 sheets you will need a large table to the right of the blade so try to find a foldable table. I had an Electra Beckum with this feature and regret selling it. Two slots in the table will allow you to make zero clearance crosscut sleds which are incredibly useful and safe . Belt drive with a heavy trunnion is essential as is dust extraction.
The table saw is the most used tool in the workshop so try to tick all the boxes before spending the hard earned.

 

[skeetstar]

If you want new.. I've had the Axi 254sb for 3 or 4 years now. Reliable, relatively small footprint, easily accurate enough for me, cuts 3in oak dead easy with the right blade, good solid fence that is adjustable front to back as well as side to side.

Down sides are extraction is poor, top guard isn't the greatest, but no other negatives that I can think,of. And its in your budget though on a 6 week delivery.

 

[skeetstar]

Oh, one negative i remembered, the mitre gauge isn't very good, I got an aftermarket one.

 

[Shankat]

Beware that table saws consume a lot of shed space. If you want to cut 8 x4 sheets you will need a large table to the right of the blade so try to find a foldable table. I had an Electra Beckum with this feature and regret selling it. Two slots in the table will allow you to make zero clearance crosscut sleds which are incredibly useful and safe . Belt drive with a heavy trunnion is essential as is dust extraction.
The table saw is the most used tool in the workshop so try to tick all the boxes before spending the hard earned.

Thanks Recipio I intend doing exactly that. you are right about the crosscut sled too, I have one now on my old tin saw and it has to be the most used piece of kit in the shop. It will be the first thing I make for the new saw, cheers

 

[LJM]

+1 for second hand British (startrite, wadkin etc).

Ok, you may need to make some repairs. But if you’ve started with a bargain (I paid £30 for 12” startrite), you’ve plenty in your budget to set the saw up to suit your needs. Mine (one I’ve moved into my new workshop) will have a Siemens vfd with new motor , aftermarket fence with stock guides, aftermarket mitre gauge, sliding table and 3 new blades from cutting solutions. I’ll have spent £700.

Compare posts here and elsewhere about machine breakdowns. I would rather repair an old machine than a modestly priced new one! And with my current outlay, I’ve no problem spending a bit on a few spares, if needed.

 

[gog64]

If you go down the new route, the iTech 10" is the same as the SIP 1332 AFAIK. I have had the SIP (but would rather spend money with S&S if I had my druthers) for a few years. It has a full length fence for cutting man made boards (and despite whatever else you've heard, that's really useful) and a sub fence. The clue's in the name, it's called the rip sub fence and you must always put it on for safety's sake when ripping. The fence works great, it's quick, accurate, adjustable for square and has micro adjust on the cut width. The top is cast iron and is flat with accurately machined slots. The motor is quiet and at 3hp has plenty of power for what I use it for. My only niggle was with the extra side table that came with mine, it was a pig to get level with the main table. Not really sure what else you can ask for in a basic machine like this? Dust extraction at the bottom is fair, dust extraction at the blade guard is fair. Really nothing to complain about, but plenty of room for improvement if you like fettling.

There is a camp that champions old iron, with tales of the great prices they paid. Lucky beggars, I'm probably just jealous as I've never got a sniff of any of these bargains! Personally, I couldn't give two hoots about the machine, I'm only interested in what I can make with it and a new, decent quality machine just works straight out of the box without any fuss. You pays your money and takes your choice. My pal for example loves old machinery and gets more pleasure from fixing an old machine than making anything. I on the other hand have to fix machines as part of my day job, so I'd much rather something just works so that I can make stuff with it.

 

[Shankat]

If you go down the new route, the iTech 10" is the same as the SIP 1332 AFAIK. I have had the SIP (but would rather spend money with S&S if I had my druthers) for a few years. It has a full length fence for cutting man made boards (and despite whatever else you've heard, that's really useful) and a sub fence. The clue's in the name, it's called the rip sub fence and you must always put it on for safety's sake when ripping. The fence works great, it's quick, accurate, adjustable for square and has micro adjust on the cut width. The top is cast iron and is flat with accurately machined slots. The motor is quiet and at 3hp has plenty of power for what I use it for. My only niggle was with the extra side table that came with mine, it was a pig to get level with the main table. Not really sure what else you can ask for in a basic machine like this? Dust extraction at the bottom is fair, dust extraction at the blade guard is fair. Really nothing to complain about, but plenty of room for improvement if you like fettling.

There is a camp that champions old iron, with tales of the great prices they paid. Lucky beggars, I'm probably just jealous as I've never got a sniff of any of these bargains! Personally, I couldn't give two hoots about the machine, I'm only interested in what I can make with it and a new, decent quality machine just works straight out of the box without any fuss. You pays your money and takes your choice. My pal for example loves old machinery and gets more pleasure from fixing an old machine than making anything. I on the other hand have to fix machines as part of my day job, so I'd much rather something just works so that I can make stuff with it.

Great advice gog64. For the budget I have my head tells me to go new and I am looking closely at the I tech. It looks a good machine for the money. I’m not a pro but a serious hobbiest so it looks like it will do all that I want from it and probably see me out. Some old machines have a rep that is hard to beat but I don’t really want to end up with lots of maintenance or worst still have the bad luck to buy a lemon. Thanks again

 

[Myfordman]

There is a SIP in the for sale section

 

[Daniel.l]

I previously owned the SIP 4hp table saw which I purchased second hand. In my opinion I cannot recommend. I bought a new Laguna fusion 3 last year and couldn't be happier with it.
The main problem I had with the SIP was the arbor flange was not flat and there was too much blade wobble I tried to fix it but with no luck other small things were the plastic handles were broke and the insert plate was a pain to make your own because it had to be so thin.