Help wanted! Belt change on union jubilee.
- Thread starter goosander
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Hi Pete
If you don't get any answers, try the guy who runs this site :-
www.lathes.co.uk
You will at least get a photo copy of the manual from him - allbeit rather expensively for a copy !! It is however an excellent site on all things related to all lathes.
OW
If you don't get any answers, try the guy who runs this site :-
www.lathes.co.uk
You will at least get a photo copy of the manual from him - allbeit rather expensively for a copy !! It is however an excellent site on all things related to all lathes.
OW
Hi Pete,
You will need to remove the headstock spindle to change the belt and to do this observe the bearing housings when you open the lid at the top of the coloumb.
The headstock spindle has a flange behind the inboard thread that is part of the shaft and covers the front bearing and behind the front bearing inside the housing is a thick flange that is held in place by a grub screw which you can get to by inserting the long side of a suitable allen key into the hole in the bearing housing inboard of the grease cup or nipple.
You will find that allen key is imperial unless the lathe has been renovated recently.
Now repeat your obsevation of the outboard bearing and release the grub screw on that loose flange. Finally slacken the grub screw fixing the pulley assembly to the headstock spindle.
Hopefully if all items release their grip on the spindle you should be able to withdraw the spindle out over the bed of the lathe.
Take this opportunity to inspect, clean and carry out any refurbishment to the bearings and certainly replenish with fresh grease.
Consider buying two new belts and hanging one over the bearing housing as a spare if you are giving the machine a lot of use. I know a couple of pro- woodturners who do this on Graduates to save down time. Its worth considering.
Now as any car maintenance manual will tell you assembly is simply the reverse of dismantling. Not quite because you have to make sure you pull the shaft fully through and take up the end-float of the shaft by pushing the loose flanges up tight to the bearings prior to tightening the grub screws. Make sure you you get the grub screws back into the dimples in the shaft other wise you might struggle to get the shaft out next time.
I hope I have covered all the points necessary and please feel free to contact me if I can help further.
Best regards and good luck,
Ian
You will need to remove the headstock spindle to change the belt and to do this observe the bearing housings when you open the lid at the top of the coloumb.
The headstock spindle has a flange behind the inboard thread that is part of the shaft and covers the front bearing and behind the front bearing inside the housing is a thick flange that is held in place by a grub screw which you can get to by inserting the long side of a suitable allen key into the hole in the bearing housing inboard of the grease cup or nipple.
You will find that allen key is imperial unless the lathe has been renovated recently.
Now repeat your obsevation of the outboard bearing and release the grub screw on that loose flange. Finally slacken the grub screw fixing the pulley assembly to the headstock spindle.
Hopefully if all items release their grip on the spindle you should be able to withdraw the spindle out over the bed of the lathe.
Take this opportunity to inspect, clean and carry out any refurbishment to the bearings and certainly replenish with fresh grease.
Consider buying two new belts and hanging one over the bearing housing as a spare if you are giving the machine a lot of use. I know a couple of pro- woodturners who do this on Graduates to save down time. Its worth considering.
Now as any car maintenance manual will tell you assembly is simply the reverse of dismantling. Not quite because you have to make sure you pull the shaft fully through and take up the end-float of the shaft by pushing the loose flanges up tight to the bearings prior to tightening the grub screws. Make sure you you get the grub screws back into the dimples in the shaft other wise you might struggle to get the shaft out next time.
I hope I have covered all the points necessary and please feel free to contact me if I can help further.
Best regards and good luck,
Ian
paul-c
Established Member
if you dont want to remove the headstock spindle you can fit a fenner belt / nut link belt. not cheap but very easy to fit . 
cheers paul
heres one link
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Nutlink_Vee_Belts-1036-c
or just contact a local fenner dealer
cheers paul
heres one link
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Nutlink_Vee_Belts-1036-c
or just contact a local fenner dealer
CHJ
Established Member
paul-c":3bb5csb9 said:if you dont want to remove the headstock spindle you can fit a fenner belt / nut link belt. not cheap but very easy to fit .
cheers paul
heres one link
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Nutlink_Vee_Belts-1036-c
or just contact a local fenner dealer
Be aware that not all linked belts are Bi-Directional, some rely on directional tension for correctly maintaining link connection.
Needs to be considered if lathe rotation is reversible such as when fitted with Electronic 3PH conversion.
Thanks to all the above.... very good info!!!
I would like to take the shaft out really, as i would like to see what the bearings are like.... and just so i know how to do it to be honest. i will print the directions given and retire to the garage.See if i cant take the skin off a knuckle or two tonight!!
As for the Fenner belt option, Its good to have in reserve if all this does turn out to be a bit of a chore.
I have just put an inverter on this lathe, and i think by rights it should now work in reverse? But the nightmare i had to even get the thing wired to go the way it is! I am happy just to let it go for a bit. I have no real use for reversing direction at the moment, but maybe i will have a look at a later date.
Thanks again for the quick and informative replies
Pete.
I would like to take the shaft out really, as i would like to see what the bearings are like.... and just so i know how to do it to be honest. i will print the directions given and retire to the garage.See if i cant take the skin off a knuckle or two tonight!!
As for the Fenner belt option, Its good to have in reserve if all this does turn out to be a bit of a chore.
I have just put an inverter on this lathe, and i think by rights it should now work in reverse? But the nightmare i had to even get the thing wired to go the way it is! I am happy just to let it go for a bit. I have no real use for reversing direction at the moment, but maybe i will have a look at a later date.
Thanks again for the quick and informative replies
Pete.
CHJ
Established Member
Reversing direction is normally just a matter of switching a wire between two terminals on the inverter.
Often marked:
Com. Fwd. Rev.
Just need to make sure you have security grub screw in chuck collar to prevent unwinding.
Often marked:
Com. Fwd. Rev.
Just need to make sure you have security grub screw in chuck collar to prevent unwinding.
CHJ
Established Member
Glad to here all is going well, nothing like deep servicing your machine tools to instil added confidence when operating them.
Bob Chapman
Established Member
I had a Union Jubilee and put new bearings in it. They made a terrible noise afterwards and I found that I had to tap the shaft gently backwards and forwards until I found the 'quiet' position where presumably everything is aligned correctly. Just for info .
Bob
.Bob
Hi Pete,
Glad to be of assistance. It seemed to take a lot of explaining but its not so bad once done and at least you will know for future reference.
Looking forward to seeing some output from the revitalised machine.
Regards,
Ian
Glad to be of assistance. It seemed to take a lot of explaining but its not so bad once done and at least you will know for future reference.
Looking forward to seeing some output from the revitalised machine.
Regards,
Ian
I will look out for that Bob, I am going to take the shaft in to work and give it a good clean, put it up between centres and test it with a DTI see how true it runs. The bearings are enclosed so i would imagine they are replacements. All looks and sounds OK with them. So if it screams when i turn it on for the first time.... I will look out for alignment discrepancies.Bob Chapman":1297bb7d said:I had a Union Jubilee and put new bearings in it. They made a terrible noise afterwards and I found that I had to tap the shaft gently backwards and forwards until I found the 'quiet' position where presumably everything is aligned correctly. Just for info
Bob
Thanks Pete.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
buster - you may have a wait - the OP hasn't been here for four and a half years. Someone else'll probably tell you, though.
Someone else'll probably tell you, though.wizard
Established Member
I am still about.... Long time I know!! I got the belts from a firm called Halley bearings.... They have got branches all over England. I went to them with my old belts. Gave them to them to look at and told them the diameter of the two pulleys... And they gave me the belts. I would thing most if not all bearing/ belt companies would be able to help you with belts..... Hope that helps.
head_turner
Member
does anyone know the exact length of belt required for a Union Jubilee. I've ordered the same length belt as i measured the old on to be (1725mm) but there is till lots of slack, this is my second order of 2 belts from RS as the first were waaaay too big and this is getting expensive now.
Can anyone tell me exact size I require as the stock list is endless and i don't want to waste anymore money on unnecessary postage!!?!?!?!?!?
Can anyone tell me exact size I require as the stock list is endless and i don't want to waste anymore money on unnecessary postage!!?!?!?!?!?
wizard
Established Member
very good price from here just measure what you want
http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/v-wedge-belts/?cat=32
http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/v-wedge-belts/?cat=32
head_turner
Member
i have measured it, thats what i said. and its wrong... i want to know the standard oem length.
head_turner
Member
seems like RS-components state the inside diameter of their belts in the listing, think this is where i was going wrong.
Fingers crossed I've now found the correct length on www.bearingshopuk.co.uk as they state inside and outside diameters on all their listing!!
FYI. the outside diameter of the belts ordered are 1718mm and inside diameter 1655mm. Wedge section in 12.7mm width.
Fingers crossed I've now found the correct length on www.bearingshopuk.co.uk as they state inside and outside diameters on all their listing!!
FYI. the outside diameter of the belts ordered are 1718mm and inside diameter 1655mm. Wedge section in 12.7mm width.
