Help MT2 stuck

[Housey210]

looking at this schematic are items 9, 11, and 12 those shown in your actual picture?

 

[Dalboy]

This may seem a little unorthodox method. You say the shaft is out of the sleeve now hold it with the MT section uppermost hold the shaft lower down not too tight just enough to support it in that position now tap with a hammer around the shaft turning the shaft occasionally. I use to use this method when I was a plant mechanic to free some of the taper fixings and it worked a treat some of those where jammed in tight. Just make sure you do not hit any vital surfaces like where bearing fit for example. Don't expect it to free after a couple of taps it may take up to a good couple of minutes tapping no need to bash it hard just sharp type taps

 

[--Tom--]

Good you have the schematics, hopefully shock will shift it. A non marking hammer hitting round the shaft should help loosen

 

[TFrench]

While you've got the puller on it I'd try a few heat cycles. Are you using just gas or oxygen as well? I've found the extra heat oxy generates can really help in a situation like this as it gets the outer piece warm so fast it expands off the inner, as opposed to all expanding at the same time if you do it with a more gentle fuel like propane or MAPP.
Attached pictures are a VERY old vacuum pump we've been working on recently. Mr blue got one of the pistons moving but the other was stuck fast. Luckily I had a lead on a very beefy hydraulic press so I got it bought and that got things moving! According to the gauge it was getting up to around 15 tons before it moved! Now on top of all the other projects I have on the go I've got a hydraulic press to bring up to standard as well...

 

[okeydokey]

Hi TFrench
I like some of this old machinery - but it never comes my way to restore - I must be looking in the wrong places

 

[Tris]

I may be mistaken but it looks like the end of part 10 is threaded and possibly the inside of the collar on the arbour? If that is the case I'd try putting a pin through one of the holes in part 11, heat the arbour collar and try drifting part 11 in the right direction using the pin.
Does the arbour collar have flats on as in the diagram? Just wonder if someone swapped the original and got it wedged

 

[Housey210]

At a loss here! What exactly can be seen in the original photo in relation to schematic? To me, the holed rusty collar looks like item 11 butting up to item 6 and as 6 is referrenced above clearly a bearing. The shaft is clearly parellel and, to me, can only be item 10. The blacked piece, to me, is item 12 and as shouldered in schematic, a threaded lock nut. Where is the MT2, the router collet? Threaded lock nut might be opposite thread and only holding bottom bearing! Bit of heat and undo.

 

[John Hall]

Did you manage to get it apart?

 

[deema]

Not yet! Still on the thinking about bench. Tried the solution suggested without success. I’m thinking about boring the centre and then cutting to the taper to get it out as a last resort.

 

[John Hall]

Can you put another picture on showing the complete unit, so we can see the other end..

 

[Tris]

If the diagram in post #33 is correct then it will unscrew, it says attach collet holder by tightening nut B, are the flats visible?

 

[John Hall]

If the diagram in post #33 is correct then it will unscrew, it says attach collet holder by tightening nut B, are the flats visible?

That’s just relating to the collets, Nothing to do with the morse taper

 

[Phill05]

Not yet! Still on the thinking about bench. Tried the solution suggested without success. I’m thinking about boring the centre and then cutting to the taper to get it out as a last resort.

Have a try at this:

 

[Tris]

That’s just relating to the collets, Nothing to do with the morse taper

As I read it nut D holds the collet, nut B being an integral part of the taper/holder

 

[Oldnut]

I have always found the two hammers from opposite sides swung in unison trick, as mentioned earlier to be most effective, ideally with the puller attached, but if the puller is where the 'meat' of the adapter is try with and without the puller.

 

[John Hall]

As I read it nut D holds the collet, nut B being an integral part of the taper/holder

My apologies…I’ve just re-read your solution and I agree, it should just unscrew,
There is an internal thread on the collet holder..
It looks like we have all been assuming that because it’s a morse taper that it knocks out, when in fact it is simply screwed in? That’s why I asked for another pic to give more detail..

 

[redhunter350]

I agree with Tris and such a system would negate the need for a draw bar ! The MT being held in place by the thread and the thread acting as an ejection tool as well ?
Deema, how about some photo's of the unit without the extractor you show in the first post.

 

[Tris]

Looking at the top diagram of post #39 I think the collar (11) is a locking ring, with a pin fitting into a hole somewhere to allow the taper to be unscrewed, that makes me think it could be a left hand thread

 

[Housey210]

Can you put another picture on showing the complete unit, so we can see the other end..

asked for those photos earlier!

 

[chaoticbob]

I have the maintenance manual which SCM very kindly dug out for me. It certainty shows it as a plane MT2 shank held bu a nut, which we did release. I love the warning……clearly lost on the previous owner!

View attachment 143327

If I've understood this saga correctly, you had to resort to a nut splitter to get the collet retaining nut D off, but have removed the nut B (which seems to have the equivalent function to a drawbar in a milling machine) OK. So you're left with an MT2 collet chuck stuck in an externally parallel spindle.
You don't say what the collet system is, but it looks like ER, in which case you can easily get a replacement for D. If that's so you could try mounting an end mill in the collet chuck, mounting the parallel spindle in the lathe three-jaw, fixing a lump of scrap steel on the lathe crosslide and then attempt to mill a slice off the scrap using the side of the end mill.
Might sound crazy, I was sceptical when it was recommended to me by a seasoned engineer when I had a similar problem, but it worked within seconds. Combination of vibration and the pulling action of the end mill I suppose.
Bob.