I was putting in a threaded insert (Allen key type) and the top split, my pilot was probably too small. I tried cutting an opposing slot and using a screwdriver but the thing appears to be made of cheese and so just breaks more when you try to turn it. I need a hole where this is so have to avoid too much damage. Any options to get it out other than drilling at this point?
Help me out of this situation! Broken insert
- Thread starter msparker
- Start date
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porker
Established Member
Looks like the job for a screw extractor or an easy out if you have one. It looks almost hex shaped. Do you have an allen key you could tap in to wind it out? As for replacing it, my usual method if you can't reuse the threads it has cut, is to drill oversize for a round dowel, glue in and re drill when glue dries and have another go with a bigger pilot hole.
Mole grips ???
Gerry
Established Member
If it's a through hole you can insert a slightly larger tapered tap from the rear to screw it out.
Gerry
Gerry
Thanks for the quick suggestions! (Love this forum!) @porker the drill-dowel-re drill idea is great! I will certainly keep that one in my back pocket. I don't have any of the mentioned kit but I think I'll invest in a screw remover as it's not the first time.
I thought I was onto a winner for a second using pliers to squeeze the broken rim onto an Allen key, it got me maybe half a turn before the crappy metal sheared off.
For now I've filed down the protruding part flush and will see if it works well enough to avoid taking it out at all. If I do need to take it out, I'll drill it, get some dowel and start again
Thanks all!
I thought I was onto a winner for a second using pliers to squeeze the broken rim onto an Allen key, it got me maybe half a turn before the crappy metal sheared off.
For now I've filed down the protruding part flush and will see if it works well enough to avoid taking it out at all. If I do need to take it out, I'll drill it, get some dowel and start again
Thanks all!
novocaine
Established Member
well having tried pliers you've now fecked it beyond help.
a better option would be to wind a bolt with a nut in then lock the nut against the top before backing it out using the bolt head.
drill it out slowly to break the metal up and you may not need to plug it at all.
a better option would be to wind a bolt with a nut in then lock the nut against the top before backing it out using the bolt head.
drill it out slowly to break the metal up and you may not need to plug it at all.
Done the exact same thing last week and used screw extractor to good effect as Porker suggested. I got these from Screwfix
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v
Terrytpot
Established Member
can always try a bit of super glue on a screw and wind it in,let it set, then unscrew the whole shebang..
Awac
Established Member
Second vote for this.
BTW. Just a tip, I have found inserts are sometimes made of cheese, get a bolt with a couple of nuts on, screw it in, nip the nuts up and turn the insert in.
Don’t suppose you got them from Screwfix? Yes definitely made of cheese, less metal in them than the last lot I brought about 15 years ago. I found that countersink the pilot hole slightly seams to stop the flange from breaking
They were indeed! I looked at the site again today expecting to see loads of negative reviews but it's showing as almost 5* and lots of glowing reviews. I wonder if they're a bit selective
Great tip thanks!
Drilling the right size pilot hole is essential. You need to measure the core diameter close to the flange, as most of the inserts (that I’ve used, at least) have a definite taper to the body. Most of them are made of one of the zinc-based casting alloys (mazak etc), and are pretty weak.
As for removing the broken one, either the stud extractor mentioned above, or carefully drilling out to about the core diameter at the tip. I’ve also found that inserting these with a machine screw and locknut is more reliable than just using an allen key.
As for removing the broken one, either the stud extractor mentioned above, or carefully drilling out to about the core diameter at the tip. I’ve also found that inserting these with a machine screw and locknut is more reliable than just using an allen key.
TheTiddles
Established Member
Superglue the size thread screw into it that it should take, let it cure then unscrew the assembly
Richard_C
Established Member
The Screwfix site sorts reviews positive first which I think is deliberately misleading. Use the drop down to sort most recent first and you get a better picture. I'm not anti Screwfix, but really don't like that. They are not alone, many others are similar.
TheUnicorn
Established Member
I dont quite understand this method, why do you need the nut? if you just tightened the bolt in firmly right up to the bolt head would you not achieve the same thing?
your method would allow the use of two spanners, one on the nut keeping a firm clockwise pressure, whilst the other spanner removed the bolt, nut and fixing moving anti clock, is that what you meant? sorry if I'm being dense
When the nut is tightened up on the bolt against the top of the threaded insert, it will lock the insert to the bolt threads. As long as the nut is not over-torqued, and strips the threads of the insert, this method works great to remove stubborn inserts. Two spanners are required at first, one to hold the bolt while the second tightens the nut against the insert. Only one spanner is used on the bolt to back the entire assembly out of the wood.
TheUnicorn
Established Member
well, I have to say I still would have thought that the bolt head being tightened firmly against the fixing would do the same thing, but I'll bow to experience on this one. thanks for trying explain though
