Help: Bearing removal on a Union Jubilee lathe

[morgansk]

Hello,

I've just bought a Union Jubilee lathe and would like to overhaul it before I put it to work. As part of that overhaul I would like to remove and replace the headstock bearings but as I'm without a manual I can only guess how to do this.

Could someone let me know how to remove the entire headstock?

There's a grubscrew on the outboard side which looks like the way in, but having loosened it I was thinking I should then be able to unscrew that part of the headstock, but it's not budging. Before I apply any more muscle to it I thought I should ask if I am going about this the right way.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer.

Cheers,

Morgan

 

[Bluefoxy]

Morgan,

I haven't got a clue but this website might help with a photocopy of the manual http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrisonwood/page2.html

I understand from others that the guy who runs it, Tony, is very helpful.

Regards,

Ray

 

[como]

Hi Morgan and welcome to the forum.

I recently changed the bearings on my jubilee...

If you take a look at this thread -> https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/lathe-bearings-t43546.html, it has most of the information needed to replace union jubilee bearings.

If you need any more help let me know.

Cheers
Mark

 

[Russell]

try this guy http://www.dgrdesigns.co.uk/

 

[miles_hot]

Hi there

I'm just in the process of doing this - I can tell you how to get the whole spindle out, the spacers and bearings out but I've yet to get one of the bearings away from it's spacer (I've just bought a bearing splitter so I'll update when I've sorted that out!).

I have a PDF of the instruction manual which will be a great help to you - can you PM your email address and I'll send it over.

There are four grub screws to worry about - all non metric:
B - Outboard end, outside the casing
C - Outboard end inside the casing
H - Holding the pulley on
J - Inboard end inside the casing

I've copied the instructions from the PDF below. The other components which are referenced are:
A - Outboard face plate
F - Spacer (outboard)
E - Space (inboard)
K - Outboard hole in casing
X - Towards inboard side
Y - Toward outboard side

Remove Faceplate (A), release set screws (B) and (C) and withdraw spindle and front bearing in direction of arrow X by:
File off any burs which may be on the end of the spindle. Place a block of wood between the pulley and the inboard end of the casing and withdraw the spindle in direction X. The pulley will slide off the spindle when it buts against the wood block. If any difficulty is experienced the spindle should be give a sharp knock

Remove sleeve complete with rear bearing in diction of arrow Y, if bearings are tight in housing release set screws (H) and (J) and lightly tap spaces (F) and (E) until the bearings are ejected.

To remove rear bearing from its sleeve use Pins through the ejector holes (K) and then fit new bearing

Re-assembe front space (E) and clamp set screw (J) in dimple. Re-assemble rear spacer (F). Do not as yet clamp set screw (H). Re-assemble spindle complete with new bearing.

Re-assemble rear bearing and sleeve up to shoulder on spindle and clamp set screw (B). Adjust rear spacer (F) to remove side plat then clamp set screw (H).

Care should be taken with this final adjustment to prevent overloading of the bearings. Line up head pulley with motor pulley and clamp set screw (C).

Hope this helps

Miles

 

[morgansk]

Miles & Mark - thanks so much for your comments on this thread. I'm glad I'm not alone!

The next job is having the motor modified to run off 240v three phase. There's a very helpful company in Warrington which isn't far from me who can do this - the plan is I can then buy an inverter and have total speed control of the machine.

I'll post some before/during/after images just in case anyone is interested.

 

[miles_hot]

One other thing - I am inthe process of talking to Lee at LRE and ordering a bunch of stuff (or at least I will when he calls me back ) and one of the things that I will be buying is a "double right hand" thread spindle - it has the same thread on the in and outboard sides. In conjunction with the inverter (Newton Tesla) which has reverse this will mean that I can turn on the same side using the same check etc inboard or outboard.

Miles

 

[morgansk]

Miles,

Very interesting. I'm off to Warrington tomorrow to take my motor to the same company (Newton Tesla) to see if they can re-wire it to work with a 240v inverter. Great minds think alike.

I was also thinking about manufacturing a new spindle - and having the same thread on both sides makes a load of sense. I'll send you an email!

Morgan

 

[opener]

Miles

PM sent

Cheers
Malcolm

 

[Syko]

Hello guys

This is my first post on here so please excuse my mistakes as don't do this much. I have bought a union jubilee lathe and converted it to a variable sped lathe, I bought the lathe off eBay and now think I got stung on the cost but thats life. While using the lathe before x-mas it started to make some serious grating noises ( did not like that ) so I have dismantled it removed the head stock and split the bearings! So came to look for a manual on the lathe and found this forum found out lots of info on here ( should have looked first)! The double grub screw was a surprise .So I have loads of questions.

1. Should the spindle have a hole all the way through centre to enable knock out of morse taper?
2. Can I get a new spindle for it? As the MT is very worn and awkward without the hole , etc.
3. Can't find a manual any ideas?
4 Where can I source new bearings?
5.I do not understand the thread the same way on each end of the spindle!

Regards Chris

 

[parvum]

Hi Chris,
Looks like you have a non standard spindle, should be through bored with a number 2 morse taper and 1" x 10 RH on inboard and 1" x 10 LH on outboard end no taper. New bearing are easy, either Bearing boys or Simply bearings, about £25 the pair. Please see my post under lathe bearings as to how to fit them, but forgive the confusion over head/tail stock, I got mixed up with the quaint nomenclature for prehistoric machine tools! for tailstock read outboard spindle end and inboard end for headstock. They are both headstock bearings! I hope this helps

regards Paul

 

[Syko]

Thanks Paul
I did suspect it was a non standard spindle, as I said think I was caught bait with the purchase.
Any ideas on manual and where to get a new spindle made I think my taper on tail stock and spindle at the moment is No:1 MT
I have ordered new bearings using Numbers found on here from simply bearings
Regards Chris

 

[parvum]

Hi Chris,
It might be a lot cheaper for you to drill or have drilled your spindle 3/8" and and have the morse taper recut.I should add that the standard taper for both headstock and tailstock is No1 Morse and not No 2 as I stated. If you do the drilling yourself by using a long series drill in the tailstock you can get a No1 Morse taper reamer from RDG tools.The through hole need not be super accurate and the existing taper should clean up enough .to use drive centres, the torque loading is pretty small, you are not hogging off stainless steel. I hope this helps

regards Paul

 

[Syko]

Hi Paul
The fittings I have for the morse taper at the moment all fit in up to the shoulder and the spindle threads were all damaged as a result, I cleaned up the threads when I first got it so not sure how I could re drill the morse taper ? I never thought of drilling it myself as only ever worked with wood. I probably could do it now you have suggested it ,I suppose I would need some oil on the drill to keep it cool or something like that?
if I were to re drill the morse taper do you think I could go up to a number2 to solve my problem? This would obviously mean I would have to buy new drives etc.

Thanks again regards Chris

 

[parvum]

Hi Chris
If I were trying to do this without using a metalworking lathe, I'd try this. It seems that the morse taper has worn oversize so the tapered end of the fitting enters too far,so cut off a couple of mm leaving at least three complete threads on the spindle and clean up with a fine file and emery cloth.With care the end should remain square to the spindle axis although any threaded fitting should locate on the shoulder.The taper can now be cleaned with and deepened slightly with a reamer held in the tailstock, don't be tempted to use power,turn the spindle by hand,using the tailstock screw to maintain contact. It takes only a very small amount of material to be removed to deepen the socket too far and put you back where you started, so go easy and check frequently with a good male taper, running out of spindle thread puts a crimp on things.
Drilling through with a long 3/8" drill again should be done slowly but under low speed power and as you suggest some oil as lubricant ,withdrawing the drill completely frequently to clear chips and apply lubricant. The the drill held in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock or less common a No1 morse taper integral with the drill, again using the tailstock screw to provide feed.If buying kit, the Jacobs chuck on a No1 morse taper arbor and long jobber drill is the most useful option as the chuck assembley will be useful for many wood turning operations in the future.
There will probabley be insufficent "meat" around the spindle opening to support the threads if you bore the spindle to accept a No2 morse taper and removing this amount of metal with a reamer and maintaining the essential concentricity will be impossible without a decent sized metal working lathe. Reamers will clean or finish a Morse taper, but removing more metal to move up a size, or starting from scratch will require taper boring techniques.

regards Paul

 

[Barrie16]

Hi all, I'm new to this forum also. I too have a 1950's Graduate Jubilee lathe and I'm hoping one of you may be able to offer me some advise along the same lines as has been discussed.

Long story short, without wanting to sound too daft, the belt broke on my lathe, and I did you know about belts that you could take apart and join back together, so I ordered a replacement belt.

In trying to get the spindle out to fit the belt I was unable to do so and have damaged the thread so that now the faceplate will not screw on.

So I now need to get the spindle out, so I can take it to a machine shop to get repaired. But try as I might I cannot figure out how to get the thing out!

Can anybody give me knoddy instructions, or send me the pdf of the manual that was discussed earlier? I would be very grateful!

thanks,
Barrie

 

[Idle Mike]

Hi there

I'm just in the process of doing this - I can tell you how to get the whole spindle out, the spacers and bearings out but I've yet to get one of the bearings away from it's spacer (I've just bought a bearing splitter so I'll update when I've sorted that out!).

I have a PDF of the instruction manual which will be a great help to you - can you PM your email address and I'll send it over.

There are four grub screws to worry about - all non metric:
B - Outboard end, outside the casing
C - Outboard end inside the casing
H - Holding the pulley on
J - Inboard end inside the casing

I've copied the instructions from the PDF below. The other components which are referenced are:
A - Outboard face plate
F - Spacer (outboard)
E - Space (inboard)
K - Outboard hole in casing
X - Towards inboard side
Y - Toward outboard side

Remove Faceplate (A), release set screws (B) and (C) and withdraw spindle and front bearing in direction of arrow X by:
File off any burs which may be on the end of the spindle. Place a block of wood between the pulley and the inboard end of the casing and withdraw the spindle in direction X. The pulley will slide off the spindle when it buts against the wood block. If any difficulty is experienced the spindle should be give a sharp knock

Remove sleeve complete with rear bearing in diction of arrow Y, if bearings are tight in housing release set screws (H) and (J) and lightly tap spaces (F) and (E) until the bearings are ejected.

To remove rear bearing from its sleeve use Pins through the ejector holes (K) and then fit new bearing

Re-assembe front space (E) and clamp set screw (J) in dimple. Re-assemble rear spacer (F). Do not as yet clamp set screw (H). Re-assemble spindle complete with new bearing.

Re-assemble rear bearing and sleeve up to shoulder on spindle and clamp set screw (B). Adjust rear spacer (F) to remove side plat then clamp set screw (H).

Care should be taken with this final adjustment to prevent overloading of the bearings. Line up head pulley with motor pulley and clamp set screw (C).

Hope this helps

Miles

Hello Miles,

I'm just embarking upon this myself, where did you get your instruction manual from? I recently purchased the one from the lathes website (I can't post the website link as I've just joined) but it's very light on technical info, which is what I need for refurbishing my old Jubilee.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Phil Pascoe]

He hasn't been here for five years - you might have a wait.

 

[Idle Mike]

Haha.....fingers crossed. Anyone else on this thread have any idea where I can get the technical manual for the union jubilee lathe? I have the manual from lathes.co.uk but it isn't particularly heavy on the machines technical detail.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Sob Rorby]

Stripped my Jubilee lathe headstock today for bearing renewal. Easy enough job but almost caught out by the stacked socket cap grub screws in the stepped pulley only expected to find one so good job I didn't try and welly out the shaft from the pulley. The bearings on my lathe are 1 1/8" bore x 2 1/2" O.D. and 5/8" width. Bearing No's LS11 Single Row ball bearing and RL9 Double row self aligning ball bearing. I've ordered replacement "Bearing Boys" Cost was £39 delivered.