Help aligning the blade in a cheap table saw {picture heavy}

[BigShot]

I just checked with a steel rule and a questionable square and at about 1/3 height the blade is roughly 0.5mm out of square.
(As I said before it's about 0.1mm to 0.2mm away from square at full height so it's not a huge deviation, but it's there).


For you imperial types...
...0.5mm out of square is pretty close to 0.02".


I'll check again in a while with a square I'm a bit more sure about, but assuming I'm right, are there any suggestions how to get it aligned at all blade heights?

 

[Digit]

You'll probably need to shim under the trunnion that you adjusted sideways.

Roy.

 

[BigShot]

I'm not entirely sure what you mean there, Roy.
(I know what a shim is, just not how I'd go about using it or how it would affect toe in like that).

Would shimming it there be better than adjusting the large silver-coloured plate that can be seen with the earth sticker on it in the pictures I put in the first post?

Here I'm falling again to not fully understanding how an adjustment in one place will play out at the different parts of the saw.

 

[Digit]

Looking at your pics again BS, yes as far as I can see that should do it.
For what it's worth my experience of cheaper tools is that they are not necessarily badly made at all, but frequently are badly fitted together, and this seems to the case here.
At least it all seems curable, so have fun!

Roy.

 

[BigShot]

Well, at least I enjoy tinkering with the insides of things I've got no business working on. Haha.

I imagine if these things were assembled as well as they could be the price would be considerably higher so I don't begrudge a bit of hacking away to get it all straight and accurate.

Now, if the cutting edge of the blade is closer to the mount than the rear edge, where would you shim? Or is the idea to shim the whole thing? (Not sure how that'd change anything though)
I can always just try a few options and see what works, but loosening and tightening the allen bolts is actually quite a hassle (awkward and prone to knucle-skinning) any idea I can get up front would probably make things a bit easier.

 

[Digit]

You misunderstood me BS, turn the plate with the Earth tag, if I've the pics correctly that should do it.

My SIP T/S cost several times what you have paid and it did what it said on the box, but that was a long way short of what I thought it should be capable of for the money.
The blade was rubbish, the riving knife had a different interpretation as to what was vertical compared with the blade and was not along the same line as the blade, the dust extraction from the crown guard was useless, the metal plate around the blade had a wide slot in it to allow for tilt and no zero clearance plate, cleaning underneath was a nightmare of panel removal, the fence was full length, which is not good and the blade was not in alignment with the 'T' slot.
I changed the blade, adjusted the blade and knife alignments, replaced the crown dust extraction system with a dedicated vacuum cleaner, made two new plates including a zero clearance for the insert, removed the side panels permanently to make cleaning easier and made up a false fence.
All this took hours of work which is why the manufacturers don't always do it, time is money! The machine now does all that I want of it.

Roy.