Hedgehog cage help!

[Lil hedgehog]

Hi everyone, I need some help please. I’ve a small hedgehog rescue and found some euro storage boxes the right size to use as stacking cages. They came open sided, unfortunatly without door. I’ve received my 3mm Perspex cut to size this morning, I’d hoped to super glue Perspex hinges but that’s an epic fail! How would you hinge the Perspex door to the box so it’s a flush close (needs to be flush on inside so hedgehog claws don’t get stuck), and no sharp edges in box?

 

[Sawhead]

Hi everyone, I need some help please. I’ve a small hedgehog rescue and found some euro storage boxes the right size to use as stacking cages. They came open sided, unfortunatly without door. I’ve received my 3mm Perspex cut to size this morning, I’d hoped to super glue Perspex hinges but that’s an epic fail! How would you hinge the Perspex door to the box so it’s a flush close (needs to be flush on inside so hedgehog claws don’t get stuck), and no sharp edges in box?View attachment 133425View attachment 133425View attachment 133426

Is it possible to make a wooden frame that matches the surround and aperture. It should then be possible to nut and bolt the hinge to the perspex doors and wood screw the other side of the hinge to the wooden frame. Just a thought.

 

[Tris]

If you can drill slowly with a sharp bit you can bolt through the perspex. The roofing type bolts in the picture are quite smooth so could be put facing inwards

 

[Bingy man]

I’ve got a large enclosure to make for my neighbor for 2 Guinea pigs and have done a little research into the type of wood to use ( safe wood ) the “ phenols in certain wood can be very harmful to small critters so be careful-it’s more for animals that chew to maintain their teeth but worth checking if this would affect hedgehogs if wood is used.

 

[Jameshow]

Rounded headed hex head bolts would do it. Nuts on the outside...

 

[Bingy man]

Also for your hinge issue as suggested a steady speed to drill both Perspex and plastic but consider using rivets as they have smaller heads.

 

[Lons]

Just to add to what's already been said, drill the holes oversize to allow for expansion and not essential but use soft washers to protect the Perspex. There are guidelines as to how close to the edge you should drill but in practice it's not an issue if you're carefull and in your case the material is well supported in use. There are other plastics you can use but not styrene as it's too brittle and if outside make sure it has a UV coating. Expanded pvc ( e.g Foamex ) is good if it doesn't have to be clear.

 

[Limey Lurker]

View attachment 133432View attachment 133432


If you can drill slowly with a sharp bit you can bolt through the perspex. The roofing type bolts in the picture are quite smooth so could be put facing inwards

NO, NO, NO!!!!! To drill Perspex, or any other plastic of that type, or brass ,you need to use a BLUNT drill bit! A sharp bit will snatch and shatter the plastic. The front, cutting, edge of the bit needs to be ground back to present an edge that is at about 90 degrees the the surface to be drilled. These videos are good--

 

[Tris]

Useful, thanks. Guess I've been lucky so far then, but I go very slowly and with little pressure in 'grabby' material.

 

[Lons]

I was branch manger for 3 different companies over a number of years as main distributors of semi finished plastics including ICI Perspex, G E polycarbonate, PVC and most other types , we also machined much of it for specific orders and while the information is accurate in the videos it's perfectly feasible to drill acrylic and most other thermoformable plastic, even very brittle styrene with bits that are sharp and have not been modified, I still do so on a regular basis in my own workshop in fact I'm still using much of my gleaned offcut stock pile from 40 years ago.
You also don't have to have negative rake blades on a saw, the emphasis is WITH CARE and a little commonsense especially as the drill breaks through the back surface where adequate support is essential.

You haven't been lucky Tris, you've been sensible.

 

[Lil hedgehog]

Thank you all ever so much for your help and advice. I went for drilling the Perspex using small nut screws countersunk to Perspex and setting the hinges the wrong way round after getting the cone cutter out for air holes, hacksawing a hole for the reinforced heat pad cables, chopping a small branch for door handles and a unique Alan key latch I have finished! From a distance it looks pretty cool

 

[Tris]

Pleased you got it sorted.
Most importantly, what do the hedgehogs think of them?

 

[AES]

NO, NO, NO!!!!! To drill Perspex, or any other plastic of that type, or brass ,you need to use a BLUNT drill bit! A sharp bit will snatch and shatter the plastic. The front, cutting, edge of the bit needs to be ground back to present an edge that is at about 90 degrees the the surface to be drilled. These videos are good--

Have to DISAGREE with this Limey Lurker, sorry. I know very little about plastic sheet materials, transparent or not, but IME (quite a few holes over time), I always use a lip & spur bit, IF it's sharp (and mine are). Provided you're not drilling VERY close to the edge of the plastic, I find it works without any problems at all. As above, I know little about what plastic it actually is, I just buy what I need from the local DIY outlet.

NOT trying to start a "fight" here, but sorry mate, your "No, No, No!" just doesn't "ackle" with my own practical experience.