Hardwood edge for workbench top?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bodone

Established Member
Joined
13 Jan 2020
Messages
130
Reaction score
62
Location
Lincoln
hello all,

building mitre saw workbench from some old kitchen cabinets, a run of three units with the mitre saw between two of them so it’s surface is flush with the workbench top. The bench ‘worktop’ will be plywood bonded to Mdf, both 18mm. To give me a clean edge I plan to finish it with a hardwood.

What would people recommend In terms of wood and thickness, I’m thinking 10mm? I don’t have access to a lumberyard local so I’m limited to Travis Perkins/wickes type places.

As an alternative, I do have some solid oak floor boards, I guess I could rip them down?

Thanks for help.
 
hello all,

building mitre saw workbench from some old kitchen cabinets, a run of three units with the mitre saw between two of them so it’s surface is flush with the workbench top. The bench ‘worktop’ will be plywood bonded to Mdf, both 18mm. To give me a clean edge I plan to finish it with a hardwood.

What would people recommend In terms of wood and thickness, I’m thinking 10mm? I don’t have access to a lumberyard local so I’m limited to Travis Perkins/wickes type places.

As an alternative, I do have some solid oak floor boards, I guess I could rip them down?

Thanks for help.
How bout a straight length of CLS cut in half 36x 30mm.

When it's bashed about you can replace it!!
 
Sure the oak floorboards would be fine. For me the most important thing is to make sure it's not going to splinter as your hands will be on it the whole time. I've found in the wrong orientation and with too sharp a corner oak can be like this. A good roundover would solve it
 
For a workbench I'd edge it in Beech or Maple, but thicker than 10mm. Min 25mm or thicker to allow the face of a vice to be cut it flush with the edge. Kiln dried Oak would be fine too. If you already have some Oak planks then planing those flat and smooth might be your easiest bet.
 
hello all,

building mitre saw workbench from some old kitchen cabinets, a run of three units with the mitre saw between two of them so it’s surface is flush with the workbench top. The bench ‘worktop’ will be plywood bonded to Mdf, both 18mm. To give me a clean edge I plan to finish it with a hardwood.

What would people recommend In terms of wood and thickness, I’m thinking 10mm? I don’t have access to a lumberyard local so I’m limited to Travis Perkins/wickes type places.

As an alternative, I do have some solid oak floor boards, I guess I could rip them down?

Thanks for help.
will you have enough clearance to chop longer sections of timber? I only ask as I've mounted mine like you between two units

I installed locking drawer slides and put the mitre saw on a plinth made from framing c24 and 12mm ply.

the main top is 2 x 12mm ply on a 2x4 frame whoxh os bolted to the old sideboard below which is solid wood and to the wall at the back.

20230227_075045.jpg
20230227_075010.jpg
just slide it out when I need. it's the dewalt which doesnt need clearance round the back so it stows neatly up against the wall

I'll prob end up making a better version over time as I get more experienced

fence is missing because I'm making a new one which will allow me to use stops etc
 

Latest posts

Back
Top