Handle for Long Hole Boring auger

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'm new to making handles in general, I've done a couple for perfectly spherical steel but I wanted to start turning lamps so recently acquired a long hole boring kit with a hollow centre. The auger that came with it allows you to bore out a hole with a bore capable of taking the electrical flex. However, it comes without a handle and I need to make one. The tang is a design I've not come across before. Like a devils tail, basically a diamond on the end of the steel. Like I said, I have zip experience so was hoping for some guidance as to the method for housing this beast. I do have tons of Ash so material is no problem. I'll go take a snap post it up in a tick so you can see the tang design. The tool steel is 5/8" in diameter from memory. Any help always appreciated.

 

[Deejay]

Morning Bob

This might help ...

best-way-to-fit-a-handle-t79287.html

Cheers

Dave

 

[Vic Perrin]

Hi Bob, I brought the long hole borer a few years back and just turned a 6" handle about 1 1/2" diam out of a off cut of oak. I just drilled a hole down the centre the same diam as the max diam of the tang. I then used some epoxy resin to secure the handle. I didn't use a ferrule and I have used it loads of times for making lamps and have had no problems whatsoever over the years.
When you use it just go in a little way at a time cleaning out your cuttings on a regular basis, you may find it a bit awkward at first but once you get used to the cutting position of the borer they cut well. Remember to cut the hole about half way and then turn the piece around and go from the other end, this helps to keep the bored hole straight.

Vic

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bob - 5/16th?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

ah..thanks chaps. I've just come in having snapped it and here it is:

So you reckon I should drill the handle to the diameter of the widest part of the tang and then epoxy?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Bob - 5/16th?

Not sure Phil....you might be right, I haven't actually measured it yet. Is that the standard then?

 

[Spindle]

Hi

The easiest way is to grind off the 'wings' so as the tang is the same width as the tool diameter

Fit the tool into the handle using epoxy to prevent rotation in use

Mark the handle in some way so as you know which way is up, (ie the tool waste clearance flute upper most).

Is that the RP set you've bought? better choice than the type with spiral flutes, waste clearance is easier

Regards Mick

 

[Woodmonkey]

I have a similar one which I epoxied in as other people have said. After using it quite a bit it became loose so I drilled through the handle and tang and epoxied a pin through both.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Nice. That's great thanks guys. I will grind off the wings Mick. Like the locking pin approach too

It is the record set yes. Got another question re the cutting end also but need to get some work done now. Back later. Thanks again guys

 

[Phil Pascoe]

+1 for grinding the wings off. I suspect mine is glued with either PVA or Pu - doesn't seem to matter.

 

[paulm]

The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.

Better to drill a hole in the handle to the diameter, or just under, the diameter of the main shaft, then heat the winged end nice and hot with a blow torch or similar and burn it in to the hole in the handle ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

That looks very like the Marples tool I got with my Myford lathe. I couldn't find any information on how to go about sharpening the tool. In the end, I cut it off and welded on a drill bit instead.
I did keep the fluted part, so I can always weld it back on again later I suppose.

 

[Spindle]

The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.

Hi

The four flats remaining after the wings have been ground off are more than sufficient to prevent rotation if epoxy is used during assembly, plus the hole in the handle can be matched exactly to the tool size which again adds support and integrity.

Regards Mick

 

[Grahamshed]

Just as an off the wall idea Bob.
How about grinding off the wings and then drilling out the handle slightly oversized so that the bit will go all the way through it. You could then use a grub screw type thing to hold it tight but be able to slide the handle further up the bit to give less flex as you start to push it through.....


Does that make any sense at all ?

 

[Spindle]

drilling out the handle slightly oversized so that the bit will go all the way through it. You could then use a grub screw type thing to hold it tight but be able to slide the handle further up the bit to give less flex as you start to push it through.....

Hi

It's a novel suggestion however the following should also be taken into consideration:

Drilling the handle oversized will allow the handle to move radially relative to the tool - positive location will be lost.
The tool is guided by the tail stock and hollow tail centre - there will be no appreciable flex
Very little pressure should be required to get the tool to cut - there will be no appreciable flex
You will need to incorporate a metal collar into the handle in which to locate a grub screw
A grub screw will not lock as efficiently as an epoxied joint, (as described above).

Regards Mick

 

[Vic Perrin]

Bob, just had a look at mine as it has been a while since I used it. I actually fitted my handle to form a T shape with the boring bar which was as suggested by Record who supplied it. The T gives you better grip and control

Vic

 

[paulm]

The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.

Hi

The four flats remaining after the wings have been ground off are more than sufficient to prevent rotation if epoxy is used during assembly, plus the hole in the handle can be matched exactly to the tool size which again adds support and integrity.

Regards Mick

The grind and epoxy route may work fine, although one chap has indicated it didn't, the point is that these and similar types of tools that needed handling were used long before epoxy was available and the method described is the traditional approach as I understand it, and the reason for the shaped end of the tool I believe.

It is also likely to be quite effective as a method as it has been in use for a very long time and presumably still intended to be so given the way the handle end is still shaped today.

It doesn't mean that another method may not be effective too just that, in my opinion, it seems odd and unnecessary to grind off the very feature designed in for stability, and then to have to add another material in the form of epoxy to mitigate the problem you have just created for yourself, to bring you somewhere near back to where you started from !

Anyway, each to their own I guess

Look forwards to seeing the lamp when done Rob !

Cheers, Paul

 

[woodfarmer]

The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.

Hi

The four flats remaining after the wings have been ground off are more than sufficient to prevent rotation if epoxy is used during assembly, plus the hole in the handle can be matched exactly to the tool size which again adds support and integrity.

Regards Mick

The grind and epoxy route may work fine, although one chap has indicated it didn't, the point is that these and similar types of tools that needed handling were used long before epoxy was available and the method described is the traditional approach as I understand it, and the reason for the shaped end of the tool I believe.

It is also likely to be quite effective as a method as it has been in use for a very long time and presumably still intended to be so given the way the handle end is still shaped today.

It doesn't mean that another method may not be effective too just that, in my opinion, it seems odd and unnecessary to grind off the very feature designed in for stability, and then to have to add another material in the form of epoxy to mitigate the problem you have just created for yourself, to bring you somewhere near back to where you started from !

Anyway, each to their own I guess

Look forwards to seeing the lamp when done Rob !

Cheers, Paul

I am inclined to agree with you. Think the wings will cut a straight thread down through as you press the tool shaft up through the handle.

 

[Spindle]

Hi Paul

I would counter:

That the wings are a product of 'ease of production', flattening the end of the tool produces that profile.
The advent of modern adhesives needs to be considered - they can, and do, exceed the capabilities of earlier methods of retention.
Burning a recess destroys the integrity of the surrounding material.

Whilst tradition has it's place we need to embrace change where it is beneficial - but as you say, each to his own.

Regards Mick

 

[Woodmonkey]

I don't see whats wrong with leaving the wings on AND epoxying it in, belt and braces approach. Can't see any advantage of removing the wings myself.