Tetsuaiga":16vrg0od said:Just a quick question.
When hand planing do you think it's a bad idea to drag the plane back towards along the surface instead of lifting it each time?
Corneel":26xxysmu said:Dragging the plane backwards adds to the formation of the wear bevel on the clearance side of the edge. But I don't know if anyone ever measured if it is a relevant amount.
Sometimes, dragging the plane back causes streaks of burnished wood (higher gloss). Especially when you drag it back partially lifted on the toe or the side of the plane. If that is a problem depends on your finishing schedule. When you sand the wood anyway before finishing, it is a non issue.
swagman":1ev4svw3 said:..........Interestingly he was never allowed to use a metal soled plane during his whole apprenticeship. He was taught that a wooden sole plane will always generate a superior surface to the timber being worked on.
jimi43":1ssab2sa said:swagman":1ssab2sa said:..........Interestingly he was never allowed to use a metal soled plane during his whole apprenticeship. He was taught that a wooden sole plane will always generate a superior surface to the timber being worked on.
A very strange concept...
I'd be interested to know what others think of this suggestion. I seriously doubt the validity myself but it must have some origins to actually be taught.
Jimi
CStanford":2r4ll4hj said:Wood on wood burnishing. Next time you turn some drawer pulls burnish the one on the lathe with one you've already turned. I would imagine the effect from planing is less pronounced but the phenomenon is real. You can also just burnish on the lathe with shavings.
bugbear":b14i3hkw said:CStanford":b14i3hkw said:Wood on wood burnishing. Next time you turn some drawer pulls burnish the one on the lathe with one you've already turned. I would imagine the effect from planing is less pronounced but the phenomenon is real. You can also just burnish on the lathe with shavings.
(may need a new thread)
I made a quarter staff (well, a stick!) from some garden cut holly, and finished it by burnishing (AKA what Americans would call "boning" when applied to a baseball bat), which both hardens and shines the surface.
Follow USA practice, I used a piece of polished steel (glass bottles are also mentioned), and the result was good. Do you think that a wood burnisher (e.g. boxwood) would have given a different and/or better result?
BugBear
It is unnecessary to lift the plane when pulling it back if you use a blade made of PMV-11 ......
..... OK, Charlie .... couldn't resist
Regards from Perth
Derek (who lifts the heel, and also burnished with shavings)
Enter your email address to join: