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My old Dad creosoted his woodwork, then when it was good and dry, gave two coats of Aluminium paint, and then a three coat paint job. Lasted for about five years in good order.
 
Nope... Why would it look gloopy?
If you ever need to paint over creosoted timber, aluminium paint (Silver paint) seals in the creosote. Then primer/undercoat/and topcoat looks fine.


HTH
 
Benchwayze":y3n9az8g said:
Nope... Why would it look gloopy?
If you ever need to paint over creosoted timber, aluminium paint (Silver paint) seals in the creosote. Then primer/undercoat/and topcoat looks fine.


HTH

Creosote has been banned for sale in small retail packs due to some danger or other. What you find now in 4 litre cans is creocote which is an ersatz substitute. The real stuff can still be had in bulk packs of 20 litres and up. Why it is safe to buy in 20 litres and above and not safe to buy in 4 litre packs is entirely beyond my mental capability :)
 
I still have a 'gallon' container of the genuine stuff. I keep a party fence in good order, and that's about all I use it for. It's not my fence, but if it ever falls down, there's no one next door capable of replacing it, so it's in my interest to keep it tidy! :)
 
Good suggestion K, but I don't have any 'old' engine oil. Volvos have great filters! :lol:
Plus the fact when the oil does actually need changing, I send it into dock!

But, yes I have heard of that recipe before, although genuine turps is a bit pricey for what it is!

John
 
I've still got creosote blistering on some window cills installed in 1985 if that helps?

No rot but the paint still won't stick for more than a year or so
 
andybiggsy":371kd18y said:
so how many days approx in hot dry weather?
Probably best the following season TBH.
The method is usually used when you decide to paint woodwork which has in the past been creosoted and is, as I said, good and dry.
:)
 
I wouldn't use creosote/ creocote for this reason, I'd use a clear Blackfriars or Cuprinol or similar. At least if it does lift a little it doesn't colour your finished job. A good thing to do if you are doing a job yourself is to soak the parts AFTER all the joints have been cut and holes have been bored. People rush into jobs, finish them then think about preservatives - then they are surprised a few years later when the rot starts in the joints. I made a front gate out of untreated spruce 20yrs ago and soaked the parts after the joints had been cut for at least a week before drying and glueing - three repaints over the years, and there's no sign of rot in it.
 
On reflection I'd use cedarwood. That doesn't need any finish, unless you want it to last forever! Then a three yearly coat of linseed is fine. Mind you, it burns like fury once it gets going. :lol:
 
Myfordman":22obgafl said:
I've still got creosote blistering on some window cills installed in 1985 if that helps?

No rot but the paint still won't stick for more than a year or so

Maybe it's the sea air, Myfordman. :mrgreen: Seriously, did you use aluminium paint under the other coats?

By the by, but the first time I ever got 'blattered' out of my skull, was in Southampton. (It was the last time too actually!)
 

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