Great tutorial on ebonising
- Thread starter Graham Orm
- Start date
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Zeddedhed
Established Member
Looks pretty straightforward in terms of making the solution. I've used Wire wool and vinegar before but never though to combine it with a tea solution.
I guess the next issue is application. I normally brush on a coat, wait 5 mins and then wipe off and repeat after an hour or so, until I get the wood dark enough. When I say usually I mean both times I've tried it.
Any other methods out there?
I guess the next issue is application. I normally brush on a coat, wait 5 mins and then wipe off and repeat after an hour or so, until I get the wood dark enough. When I say usually I mean both times I've tried it.
Any other methods out there?
Graham Orm
Established Member
I've asked the question in the comments on how to do a large area. I've tried it before but missed the 3 days bit somehow when in the learning process and couldn't fathom why my wire wool wasn't rotting. I'm going to make my own stringing for inlay. I'll update when it's done. I've just snaffled a hoard of mahogany so I'll give that a go.
Woods that are naturally high in tannin (Oak, Walnut) will turn Black with the solution. I don't bother with the wirewool/vinegar but use ferrous sulphate instead. I suppose the tea is used to introduce tannin. I use Walnut for thin inlay, coiling it up inside a large pan with the ferrous sulphate solution. It's boiled for a lengthy period to get it to penetrate to full depth. 1 mm depth is possible, any deeper and it will need a very lengthy soak or the use of pressure.
Graham Orm
Established Member
MIGNAL":1jkcjl2j said:
Thanks for the info MIGNAL. I have some walnut might give that a whirl too.
You can also tint any varnish that may be applied over an ebonised wood. A little lampblack in shellac was one traditional method. That will give you a very deep piano black finish, if you like that sort of thing. Looks a bit too homogeneous for my liking though.
