Got my first 3D printer

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Britman

Chip of the old block
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My first 3D printer arrived today, a Anycubic Kobra 2. It was extremely easy to setup, like stupid easy.
I'm pretty impressed so far, printed a Benchy with what I think is great results. Currently printing a box I designed in Onshape and I have downloaded files for a track end cover for my Makita Track Saw and a dust cap thing.
I also notice that there's solution to problems I didn't even know existed :ROFLMAO:

Laser, CNC and 3D printing we really do live in the future.
 
One of my colleagues , who is seriously into 3d printing, recommended that to me a few months ago. In the end I decided to go for the Bambu x1c. However, he has a couple of those and seems to love them and has had some splendid results.
 
I quite like the idea of a 3D printer but I don't think I would get the use out of it, most things I break or would like to have seem fixable. I would need to make/print a lot of things before I broke even on the purchase price? No doubt others will point out the errors in my thinking :)
 
Have I ever broke even with the ~£1500 CEL Robox printer I bought some 8 years ago? I really don't know - or care! It's given me lots of fun designing unobtainable replacement bits or designing parts that don't exist. For example replacing the broken handle on my garden parasol or a slip-on cover for my marking knife. Better still it also keeps this aging mind ticking over.
Have fun
Martin
 
My printer cost £125 as a kit when I gave it to my Dad as a Christmas present many years ago. I’ve had it as a hand me down for about six years now. I would say it’s saved me several hundreds in spare parts or replacement’things’ since I’ve had it. To say nothing of the many adaptors, jigs and thingames that I’ve made with it.
 
My first 3D printer arrived today, a Anycubic Kobra 2. It was extremely easy to setup, like stupid easy.
I'm pretty impressed so far, printed a Benchy with what I think is great results. Currently printing a box I designed in Onshape and I have downloaded files for a track end cover for my Makita Track Saw and a dust cap thing.
I also notice that there's solution to problems I didn't even know existed :ROFLMAO:

Laser, CNC and 3D printing we really do live in the future.
I'm a newbie here but I've been 3d printing for a while. One of my early things was a cover plate for my Festool Plunge saw. It clips next to the blade centre slot in the housing and improves the suction by preventing air from squeezing past the blade. This forces the suction to be fully concentrated around the blade circumference.
 
I'm a newbie here but I've been 3d printing for a while. One of my early things was a cover plate for my Festool Plunge saw. It clips next to the blade centre slot in the housing and improves the suction by preventing air from squeezing past the blade. This forces the suction to be fully concentrated around the blade circumference.
Which one did you print? I did one for mine from Thingiverse which works nicely.
 
The absolute hardest part of 3D printing is learning the CAD software. Even though I have experience with SketchUp switching to OnShape, TinkerCAD or Fusion 360 is a steep hill.
But I have managed to design a cradle thing for my Hikoki palm router that allows me to use the track from my saw as a guide. That took way too many iterations 🤣 and lots of filament.
 
Which one did you print? I did one for mine from Thingiverse which works nicely.
By the way... I've put my S1 pro in the workshop in a sealed cupboard and have just put a Beagle 1 camera and data link in place.... It's a game changer! Beagle 2 is out now so Beagle 1 is cheap and works perfectly.
 
The absolute hardest part of 3D printing is learning the CAD software. Even though I have experience with SketchUp switching to OnShape, TinkerCAD or Fusion 360 is a steep hill.
But I have managed to design a cradle thing for my Hikoki palm router that allows me to use the track from my saw as a guide. That took way too many iterations 🤣 and lots of filament.
Interesting comment as I only have Chromebook and Android phone. I use Astroprint, Tinkercad and Thingiverse, of course. Because I haven't got any other way and do that. I got used to it quickly.
 
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Hmm. I think this may be how long is a piece of filament question.
By way of example, one print i mentioned previously. The lever arm on my loo broke. The screwfix (and others) was about £2.30, plus the petrol and 40minute or so round trip. To print a replacement cost 30 odd p in filament, and about 20minutes.
I’m trying to limit myself to buying one reel of filament per month, to build up a stock. Given these are approx £16/ kilo the filament cost is relatively small compared to the £1k+ cost of the printer i chose.
 
Hmm. I think this may be how long is a piece of filament question.
By way of example, one print i mentioned previously. The lever arm on my loo broke. The screwfix (and others) was about £2.30, plus the petrol and 40minute or so round trip. To print a replacement cost 30 odd p in filament, and about 20minutes.
I’m trying to limit myself to buying one reel of filament per month, to build up a stock. Given these are approx £16/ kilo the filament cost is relatively small compared to the £1k+ cost of the printer i chose.
Thanks, that's helpful.
 
I find I always want to buy more filament. I have about 30 reels now and have had to stop due to storage space. It did take me about 4 years to build up this many. Now I just use a few reels and then get new. Its worth bearing in mind a couple of things. Filament likes to absorb moisture from the air, so if you store your filament exposed to air then it will degrade over time. Some filaments are more affected than others, but most of them are. If they absorb some moisture it leads to lower quality prints and the filament becomes more brittle which risks it snapping as it's being pulled into the printer and interrupting your print if you're not watching it. You can get driers or use an oven very low, but I don't think it ever gets quite as good. Also if the printer is not enclosed, having an even temperature where the printer is and no drafts helps a lot, especially for bigger prints.
 
I find I always want to buy more filament. I have about 30 reels now and have had to stop due to storage space. It did take me about 4 years to build up this many. Now I just use a few reels and then get new. Its worth bearing in mind a couple of things. Filament likes to absorb moisture from the air, so if you store your filament exposed to air then it will degrade over time. Some filaments are more affected than others, but most of them are. If they absorb some moisture it leads to lower quality prints and the filament becomes more brittle which risks it snapping as it's being pulled into the printer and interrupting your print if you're not watching it. You can get driers or use an oven very low, but I don't think it ever gets quite as good. Also if the printer is not enclosed, having an even temperature where the printer is and no drafts helps a lot, especially for bigger prints.
I’m the exact opposite. I have one real of PLA, one of ABS and one of PET-G. All in black. As one runs out I replace it. I’ve never had the need for anything else.
 
Hmm. I think this may be how long is a piece of filament question.
By way of example, one print i mentioned previously. The lever arm on my loo broke. The screwfix (and others) was about £2.30, plus the petrol and 40minute or so round trip. To print a replacement cost 30 odd p in filament, and about 20minutes.
I’m trying to limit myself to buying one reel of filament per month, to build up a stock. Given these are approx £16/ kilo the filament cost is relatively small compared to the £1k+ cost of the printer i chose.
I can also confirm just how useful it is to be able to Tinkercad, some as yet uninvented item and save huge amounts of cost. These cost savings do mount up and therefore directly compensate for the cost of filament sitting in the waste bin. In effect it costs nothing🙃
 
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