Got any recommendations for squares?

[TheUnicorn]

I asked for recommendations for a affordable and reliable 150mm combi square here a few weeks ago and I had a lot of recommendation for the empire 'true blue' squares which are at a really good price in homebase, I ended up getting a bahco square because of availablity, not aweful, but not brilliant either. most of the time I find myself using a speed square, and for larger pieces a big roofers square (similar to jacob's suggestion above)

 

[D_W]

I find old rabone/chesterman squares are good and still reasonably priced second hand, my favourite are starrett though.

hardened head starrett and mitutoyo are just gorgeous pieces of gear.

They are ungodly expensive here in the states, though - even used. My first two starrett combination squares came from old tool dealers. They weren't that expensive (but also not hardened) and in both cases, the dealers said they were "very square". One wasn't, and the other couldn't lock to the same squareness each time it locked down - I don't think the rule matched the head, but the heads were beat.

My ground pounding about hardened head squares came my way via a professional toolmaker a decade ago. The difference between hardened head and not for anyone who might bump something or induce appreciable wear...the difference is astounding. If there are brands there that were once good and now are just site tools (lufkin is an example here), then sometimes there are good deals.

I've got a wonderful moore and wright square (big engineer's square) that I found for $16, too, because few people in the states have a clue what the brand is.

and a 24" starrett certified try square (that's decommissioned goods, so it's long past the age where the certification would be meaningful) that was a little bit more than a dollar an inch.

 

[bp122]

Although I own a 300mm and 150mm starrett combination squares, I also had bought an old Moore & Wright combination square with a protractor head as well from eBay for £25.

The rule on that was a bit grubby. Then on a separate occasion recently I bought a 600mm square rule only from Axminster factory seconds clear out. The only fault with that was one of the laser marked measurements repeated (can't remember which one)

It didn't matter to me as I wasn't going to use it for measuring from the rule. But now I have a super accurate 600mm combination square for less than £35 delivered. In fact when I keep the starrett and Moore & Wright side by side, the latter has a thicker casting and looks better built.

So hunt for some auctions on eBay, maybe?

 

[pgrbff]

Matsui hardened squares are supposed to be extremely accurate, I have the 150mm. Of course they're not particularly easy to get hold of, mine came directly from Japan.

 

[Misterdog]

actually a big 345 triangle might be very useful for what I'm about to get stuck into.

Probably what the Egyptians used for building the Pyramids, along with a water level...

 

[Jacob]

Just to get back to reality - however much you spend, no square will improve the accuracy of your woodwork over the cheapest square you can buy, as long as it is reasonably accurate.
The simple test is a pencil line, turn the square over and draw another next to it and they should be parallel as far as you can tell by looking at it. That's as good as you get.
A combi square is handy because of the scale, but not essential.
My favourite is just an ordinary wood handle steel blade 4" found in the bottom of a box with a lot of other old tools.
I once bought a very cheap £5 combi square because I'd lost the scribing pin from my Rabone combi and the cheap square was perfectly OK. Had a stainless steel blade *- cheaper ones are all aluminium.
PS *it might have been a Magnusson but had no name on it.

 

[Jonm]

I did have a large folding square which I found useful, portable and easy to store. Something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-437...33&hvtargid=pla-420510122386&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
mine was a cheap one and a plastic part broke, it was not an easy fix, must have thrown it away. Perhaps a reasonable quality one would be suitable. (Does anyone have any recommendations for me?)

For outside work I have made a temporary square out of timber lath to suit the job.

 

[mark w]

If you want a big square for using across wide panels, I've been using a roofing square with a pair of stair gauges, both reasonably priced.

 

[Johnwa]

Think about a Stanley 12 inch roofers square for larger jobs. I found mine pretty square and dont be worried that its plastic , I've had mine two years now and had no trouble with squareness after dropping it. About £12 from the big river company

 

[DBT85]

More than happy with my 300 starrett and dual 150s. Not hardened. What a pauper.

 

[Ttrees]

Just to get back to reality - however much you spend, no square will improve the accuracy of your woodwork over the cheapest square you can buy, as long as it is reasonably accurate.

I'd be looking for something that stays accurate, as in not being able to shift it
a few degrees out.
I'm not sure if I can move the engineers square, not that I've needed to.

I also got fooled before by my carpenters square doing this operation

So glad I bought this engineers one for a tenner,
bought a cheap roofing square for the same money, going to true up any inaccuracies, and get a more refined edge, with a common lawnmower file (single cut teeth or farmers own) file should do the trick for the most part, and a square block of timber to register with the file.

Must look up how cheap you can get a huge 300mm engineers square for,
don't mind if it's not the best, as it should be good enough to deem worth making true in all orientations.

The trad carpenter squares blued spring steel is nice for using as a straight edge, and the end of the blade is also useful for cleaning glue off the bench, should you round the corners of them with a hone,
I've only just done that to mine.
A quick lift or pivot from horizontal to vertical makes a nice teeny profile in a few swipes.
A handy tool to have around also.

Tom

 

[Jacob]

I'd be looking for something that stays accurate, as in not being able to shift it
a few degrees out.
I'm not sure if I can move the engineers square, not that I've needed to.

I also got fooled before by my carpenters square doing this operation
View attachment 124147
View attachment 124148
View attachment 124149

So glad I bought this engineers one for a tenner,
bought a cheap roofing square for the same money, going to true up any inaccuracies, and get a more refined edge, with a common lawnmower file (single cut teeth or farmers own) file should do the trick for the most part, and a square block of timber to register with the file.

Must look up how cheap you can get a huge 300mm engineers square for,
don't mind if it's not the best, as it should be good enough to deem worth making true in all orientations.

The trad carpenter squares blued spring steel is nice for using as a straight edge, and the end of the blade is also useful for cleaning glue off the bench, should you round the corners of them with a hone,
I've only just done that to mine.
A quick lift or pivot from horizontal to vertical makes a nice teeny profile in a few swipes.
A handy tool to have around also.

Tom

Your carpenters square is only supposed to square between the brass face and the outer edge of the steel.They are for marking up. Though you could reasonably expect the inside edge to be square too.
If you try to use the back it's very likely to be out

 

[RobinBHM]

"any recommendation for squares?"

yes: get a square one

 

[Ttrees]

Your carpenters square is only supposed to square between the brass face and the outer edge of the steel.They are for marking up. Though you could reasonably expect the inside edge to be square too.
If you try to use the back it's very likely to be out

Yes, but the inner reference can move about also.
And the outside is a bonus, nice for any machinery one may have one.
One could take your point of view that an engineers square is two tools in one.

Not doing any site work or anything of the likes, Ive not found a reason to want a carpenters square apart from maybe old shuttering ply or something like that.

Care to give an example of where a trad carpenters would be preferable, apart from comfort in general?

Tom

 

[Jacob]

.....
]Yes, but the inner reference can move about also.

Not if it's brass?

Care to give an example of where a trad carpenters would be preferable, apart from comfort in general?

Tom

Comfort in general is the main one.
If you do a lot of marking up in the traditional way the old fashioned sort are much nicer to use somehow. When I was doing a lot of period joinery I could be marking up solidly for two days or so.
I've got one 4" square with a broad blade which alters the centre of gravity and gives it the advantage of staying sitting flat on the workpiece of you aren't holding it. Doesn't sound much it all adds up!
Wouldn't expect to use one for site joinery particularly, though no reason why not to, and a sliding bevel too.

 

[Oakay]

Bahco squares are great for my level of wood butchering! Not expensive and easy to find!!

Cheers James

Generally Bahco are pretty good but I did get a little Bahco square once which wasn't right till I cured it. You can pay lots of money for a square that should be perfect or buy cheap and correct it yourself.

 

[Woodernhift]

My go to square is this one Kinex Engineers' Square DIN875/0 100 x 70mm use it all the time, the longer arm is fairly thick which gives a good bearing surface for marking knives.

 

[Ttrees]

Not if it's brass?Comfort in general is the main one.

I wasn't talking about differential movement of the timbers, say a knot hidden or
some reaction wood etc
I was talking about the blade being able to move, like you see with fancy adjustable try squares, but without the locking feature.
1240 × 1240

Tom

 

[Peter Sefton]

I have never found carpenters squares to be reliable, they are attractive and romantic but not accurate and cost the same as an engineers square.

If a square isn't square then it's not a square, it's just something cluttering up your bench and confusing the user.

 

[Jacob]

I wasn't talking about differential movement of the timbers, say a knot hidden or
some reaction wood etc
I was talking about the blade being able to move, like you see with fancy adjustable try squares, but without the locking feature.
View attachment 1241711240 × 1240

Tom

Never seen one like that. Just somebody's bright idea and most likely a dud.