Gluing after already having applied Boiled Linseed Oil?

[Andy's Shed]

This is my first time making something like this, it's a fairly large spice rack made from Oak and it's around 730 mm high, 440 mm wide and about 70 mm deep.

It's going to be fastened to the side of a kitchen unit using 2 screws through a rail attached to the inside of the top, hopefully you can just see the rail in the photos?

I'm hoping that the 2 screws at the top will be enough support, but to be fair I have some reservations and I'm considering adding another rail nearer the bottom. The thing is, I don't have any dark Oak left so it would have to be lighter wood similar to what's shown.

I've already applied 2 Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil and I'm now wondering if I'd be able to glue on another rail at this stage?

Top rail

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Providing your two screws are well anchored they should be strong enough to hold the rack. If you need to glue where you have already applied linseed oil you will need to scrape back the area with a sharp chisel or an old hack saw blade.

 

[Andy's Shed]

Providing your two screws are well anchored they should be strong enough to hold the rack. If you need to glue where you have already applied linseed oil you will need to scrape back the area with a sharp chisel or an old hack saw blade.

Thanks very much. I'll try fixing it as is and hopefully it'll be fine.

 

[Dee J]

Maybe fit some keyhole plates into the back edges of the verticals lower down - fit over screws in the kitchen cabinet and stp the spice rack pulling away at the bottom and hold some of the weight.

 

[Seascaper]

Hello,
Full of spices it will heavy, what you could do is fasten to the wall a wood block about the width of the unit. Fasten it so that your unit sits on it and then mark, drill and fasten for your top fixing. This way the wooden block takes the weight of the unit and there is less reliance of the top two fastenings. As this will be under the bottom shelf if won't show much and any discolouration will not show as much,
Regards

 

[Andy's Shed]

Maybe fit some keyhole plates into the back edges of the verticals lower down - fit over screws in the kitchen cabinet and stp the spice rack pulling away at the bottom and hold some of the weight.

Thanks very much. I was originally thinking of using keyholes for the fixings, but the narrowest I could find online were 13mm, the spice rack sides are just 15mm wide though and I lost my nerve. This was my first time making dados with a router and I didn't have enough confidence not to ruin my efforts by trying to route the slots for the keyhole fixings.

 

[Andy's Shed]

Hello,
Full of spices it will heavy, what you could do is fasten to the wall a wood block about the width of the unit. Fasten it so that your unit sits on it and then mark, drill and fasten for your top fixing. This way the wooden block takes the weight of the unit and there is less reliance of the top two fastenings. As this will be under the bottom shelf if won't show much and any discolouration will not show as much,
Regards

Thanks very much, this was is the fallback plan if needed I didn't want to do it purely from a cosmetic point of view, but it does seem like the way to go.

 

[Dee J]

Thanks very much. I was originally thinking of using keyholes for the fixings, but the narrowest I could find online were 13mm, the spice rack sides are just 15mm wide though and I lost my nerve. This was my first time making dados with a router and I didn't have enough confidence not to ruin my efforts by trying to route the slots for the keyhole fixings.

Drill and chisel is the way to go. Power tools like routers enable quick work, but also very quick mistakes. Careful drilling (even with a manual eggbeater style drill) and a small sharp chisel can achieve wonders.

 

[kinverkid]

If you can't find keyholes plate suitable you might want to make them from brass. Most plates I come across are round or rounded at each end so you can route or forstener drill a recess. If you make your own you can choose a square shape and chisel the recess before drilling the hole at the back to accommodate the screw head. Saying that, I also agree that the two screws alone would hold the weight but one or two key holes at the bottom wouldn't hurt to hold it tight to the wall when removing the jars plus they will take the weight of the rack while you drive the two top screws home. I also agree with the scraping back the oil finish. If it's just to glue the acorn adornments on then even if they fall off in the future, the oil will have had time to soak in sufficiently to allow you to more permanently glue them back on.

 

[Andy's Shed]

If you can't find keyholes plate suitable you might want to make them from brass. Most plates I come across are round or rounded at each end so you can route or forstener drill a recess. If you make your own you can choose a square shape and chisel the recess before drilling the hole at the back to accommodate the screw head. Saying that, I also agree that the two screws alone would hold the weight but one or two key holes at the bottom wouldn't hurt to hold it tight to the wall when removing the jars plus they will take the weight of the rack while you drive the two top screws home. I also agree with the scraping back the oil finish. If it's just to glue the acorn adornments on then even if they fall off in the future, the oil will have had time to soak in sufficiently to allow you to more permanently glue them back on.

Thanks again for the advice, it is appreciated. I decided to play safe and add a rail beneath the spice rack as suggested above.


Here's a couple of extra pics, needless to say that I'm thrilled to bits the ends result. It the first time that I've attempted anything like this.