Glue ... what glue do I use

[Jbtb]

Hi all I'm am very new to the world of wood turning but would like to know that to join different pieces of wood together prior to turning what is the best glue to use to form a solid block of wood .

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can use PVA but it tends to creep a little. If you want joints that don't creep (move) the usual choice is Cascamite or a similar UF adhesive.

 

[JimB]

The traditional way is tried and tested - hide glue - and it's cheap.

 

[selectortone]

For a permanent bond Titebond is hard to beat. Used extensively in the guitar building industry where stresses and strains from string tension sort the men from the boys glue-wise. I can attest to that with guitars I built, and repairs I made, decades ago that are still going strong with no sign of movement. Hot hide glue is more authentic but a bit of a pain-in-the-a to prepare and keep molten.

Having said that, Titebond 1 (the original product) is just a very good quality PVA, so if cost is an issue you will probably be fine with a generic PVA.

 

[CHJ]

If you indicated what you intend to turn, solid or hollow, size etc. A more meaningful response could be made.
Adhesive suitable for a table leg may well be of little practical use for a thin wall vase.

 

[woodpig]

I use Titebond 3 as well but I've also got some Cascamite to try at some point.

http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/News_ ... .sflb.ashx

 

[Honest John]

Titebond original or titebond 2 for most of my composite glue ups, but I use a PVA when doing open segment glue ups as after cleaning up between the segments, the glue is pretty much invisible in the open space between the components.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I must admit in fifty years of using all sorts of PVA I've never had a joint fail - so I find the fascination with spending much more than is needed (Titebond) a bit odd.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61864?searchstr=d4

 

[Cordy]

Thumbs up for Phil's PVA from Toolstation

In fact there are 2 litres hurtling towards Wigan as I type
Plus 50 glue sticks to bulk up the order :wink:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That stuff is brilliant. It is totally waterproof, not water resistant. I've not found a poor Everbuild product yet, and they're a sight cheaper than many alternatives. I use 502 for indoors as well, the open time is a bit better.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31670?table=no
Toolstation are fantastic, they deliver free over £10 ... TEN QUID???

 

[woodpig]

I must admit in fifty years of using all sorts of PVA I've never had a joint fail - so I find the fascination with spending much more than is needed (Titebond) a bit odd.

If you click the link you're see that Titebond 3 is stronger than PVA.

http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/News_ ... .sflb.ashx

I suspect given what others have said that Cascamite* is even stronger but I've not seen comparative tests.

* Cascamite was and probably still is the reccomended adhesive for high performance applications like making laminated bow limbs. :wink:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Titanium is stronger than PVA. So is kevlar. It's academic if what you are already using is already more than strong enough.

 

[woodpig]

That's the point though isn't it, the OP wants to:

join different pieces of wood together prior to turning what is the best glue to use to form a solid block of wood .

PVA is more than strong enough for a table leg but I wouldn't dream of using it for segmented lathe work due to creep.

Titebond 3 is better than ordinary PVA according to the tests but with even this I've seen a small amount of creep on turned work so next time I'll be using Cascamite. :wink:

 

[Cordy]

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That's the point though isn't it, the OP wants to:

join different pieces of wood together prior to turning what is the best glue to use to form a solid block of wood .

PVA is more than strong enough for a table leg but I wouldn't dream of using it for segmented lathe work due to creep.

Titebond 3 is better than ordinary PVA according to the tests but with even this I've seen a small amount of creep on turned work so next time I'll be using Cascamite. :wink:

Certainly. My comment were on usage in general, not specifically for built up work, though I accept the OP was referring to post blocking. Not using it because of creep is not the same as not using it because it isn't strong enough. I wouldn't use cascamite on small mortices in chairs as I've seen it shatter too many times. That doesn't make it weak per se. Btw D4 is not ordinary PVA it's aliphatic and conforms to the same standards as Titebond 3, so we're back to where I started - for £6.18 delivered, why pay the extra. It is of course a free Country and anyone can blow their money where they like.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If post blocking were my speciality, I would probably consider using T3 and D4 - one for the long open time and the other for the quick drying time.

 

[selectortone]

I must admit in fifty years of using all sorts of PVA I've never had a joint fail - so I find the fascination with spending much more than is needed (Titebond) a bit odd.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61864?searchstr=d4

I thought I'd share my experience as a guitar builder/repairman. Obviously I should just shut up.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Feel free. It's a perfectly valid observation that I am as entitled to make as you are to yours.

 

[andersonec]

When the word "creep" is used when gluing up segmented wood turning is wrong, I would like to say what I think is actually happening.

When two different 'types' of wood are glued together eg Oak & Walnut, they will take up a small amount of moisture and swell slightly, they may not even be at the same moisture content level so when your blank has been turned and put inside the house for a week or so you may feel a slight ridge where these two pieces are glued, this is due to the timbers drying and shrinking to different dimensions from when they were turned, this also happens, and more so notably, when end grain is glued to side grain, the side grain will shrink slightly and the end grain will not move, again you will feel a slight ridge at the joint. This is not creep but wood shrinkage. Turn your item, leave it off the lathe for a week and finish it, your ridges will disappear and not return.

Creep can happen with PVA when large items are under immense pressures or strains for continuous periods and happens over a long period of time.

I think you will see that most PVA glues are advertised as "Stronger than the wood it is joining" Try this for a strength test....Edge join two pieces say six inches wide, apply PVA to one edge only, clamp and leave for half an hour, place you plank length-wise at 45 degrees so that the top is resting against something rigid, hit the centre of your board at the glue joint with a mallet and see where the plank splits, bet it doesn't do it at the joint. We were shown that demo in 1965 and I am sure PVA has improved since then.

Andy

 

[CHJ]

When the word "creep" is used when gluing up segmented wood turning is wrong, I would like to say what I think is actually happening.

Andy

I think I know what I personally mean when I refer to creep and its relevance to grain direction in joints, my experience over the years has been that PVA rarely results in split wood but will show joint movement with the seasons or location.
Cacamite sets hard and never shows joint displacement, with joint failure or wood structure failure being the normal result of humidity changes and has to be given more consideration in initial material selection.