Glass cabinet doors

[ScaredyCat]

I'm looking at making some upper cabinet doors with glass in them and having never done this before I've just a couple of questions before I even get started.

What type of glass should I use?
Toughened?
What's the standard glass thickness for cabinet doors?

Obviously if the worst were to happen I wouldn't want any sharp bits sticking out (I've watched too many horror/murder films).

Can I simply make a panel door, where the panel is just the glass - ie, standard rails and stiles, then use the glass as the 'wood' centre or do I need to think differently about this?

Any ideas and thoughts would be welcome.


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[Geoff_S]

How big are the panes? That will tend to determine if you use toughened or not. Anyway, I've used 4mm in the past and it's just fine. I took the view that I might as well use toughened just in case, but can be pricey.

In terms of fitting I have used a couple of methods. The first is a rebate and a bead holding the glass in. This can be a bit fiddly if the panes of glass are small.

So the other method I have used is to rebate the frame to 4mm, fit the glass flush in the rebate and then used picture frame (oh God, I've forgotten what they are called!) Anyway, they are short strips of plastic screwed into the back of the frame and twisted round to hold the glass.

 

[ScaredyCat]

The panes will be around 450mm x 550mm. I'm unsure as yet if I will break those down (1/4) to have more framing - I'd prefer not to. I'm also debating a frosted section.

I'm not too keen on the little plastic tab thing to be honest- how many did you use and what size was the glass? The beading warrants further investigation though Thanks.

Should I build with repair in mind?

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[Geoff_S]

Yes, personally I would go toughened that size, that size big enough to accidentally put a fist through.

I’ve used the picture framing things one on each side of the glass, so 4.

The problem I have had with beading is where the bead is quite fine, say 5mm and getting the pins in, that’s the problem with having 5 thumbs on each hand! I have. I have considered gluing them in but you have made the point of what about repair, quite right.

Another option is to rebate 4mm, flush fit the glass and then pin an overlapping frame on the inside. That’s a bit easier when pinning it as there’s less danger of clipping the glass with the pins/hammer as in a recessed bead.

 

[Distinterior]

Certainly in Kitchens, we have to use toughened glass for glass shelves, splashbacks and glass panels in cabinet doors......

 

[Zeddedhed]

Rebate and beading is the option I'd go for. As for worrying about clipping the glass when pinning in the beads I use a square edged pinning hammer with a piece of material glued to one side. It simply slides along the face of the glass with no risk of any damage.

 

[tomatwark]

Use toughened, also ask your supplier to have the Furniture Mark put on it instead of the round circle you get on windows.

This means the mark should be straight and along the edge, and if you are intending on setting the glass into a rebate will be hidden.

Toughened glass is not as expensive as it used to be and it is not worth fitting anything else, also if the piece is for sale it needs to be toughened anyway.

 

[Mike Jordan]

I made four glass top doors for a teak cabinet in the 1970s . The doors consisted of just the stiles in timber with the glass glued into grooves in the edges of the stiles. This allowed me to use sprung cabinet hinges and avoided the costs of having any holes made in the glass, the glass was toughened and the top and bottom edges were ground for appearance.
I have no idea what glue I used but I think modern silicone would be ideal for the job.
The cabinet served us for many years but when I came to remove it I was forced to cut it up because the French Windows through which it had been carried in had been removed.

 

[petermillard]

Toughened (4mm) or laminated (5mm) and I usually rebate & bead them in. I show the process in Part 2 of my Cabinets & Shelves video #166, if that helps.