Garage door security

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The Bear

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I'm (hopefully) soon to move house. First time I'll have had a garage with a double up and over door. Having learned what I need to do to the euro locks on my house doors when I move in, I though t it would be a good idea to get an idea on my options for securing the garage door. I'm talking physical locks, bolts, other bits of hardware rather than anything else. What do you guys suggest?

Mark
 
If the garage isn't going to be used as a garage (i.e. - regularly opened from the outside) then the best way (and the cheapest) is to cut two bits of 4 x 2 and have them angled up to the inside top lip of the door either side. They don't need to be fixed down. Just cut the appropriate bevel on the bottom of each timber and a small birds mouth where it connects with the door and there you go - impossible to lift up from the outside even if the lock is gone. Only way in is to cut a hole!!

On some door openers you may need to brace from somewhere other than the floor but the principle is the same - like jamming a chair under a door handle.
 
I replaced my up and over door with a roller shutter after it was bent open from the bottom.
 
Its possible to buy hardened locks which bolt to the exterior floor/concrete and prevent the door opening/lifting. This stops thieves entering this way and also prevents them circumventing the locks by forcing the corners up with a spade and crawling into the gap.

If its not to be used as a garage then build a wooden frame inside, insulate the frame and cover with ply.

I replaced my double garage doors, which were a bit knocked about by replacing one with a pair of shop made wooden doors and the other turned into a framed and filled/insulated structure which had a man door in it.

Al
 
At the moment I want to be able to still get in the big door as access via the side door is a bit restrictive. Also it will be a temporary workshop but ultimately I would like a seperate shop so security measures that will long term be garage suitable are required. Therefore I may add thin celotex to the back of the door and stuff the cracks but still need to be able to open it. I won't be replacing it medium term though would eventually like wooden doors. Any links to those locks Beech?

Thanks guys

Mark
 
Thanks Al

Looks like the first ones can be locked/unlocked from either side and the second one needs locking from the inside?

Mark
 
The second option has 2 types.

1) Outside fit which locks a "bumper " close to the door so it will not open.

2) An inside one which screws to the door face and clips/locks onto a spigot attached to the concrete floor.

Al
 
The Bear":pniyvr6u said:
Looks like the first ones can be locked/unlocked from either side?

Mark

I've got these fitted either side of my garage door but didn't drill the key hole through the door, so they can only be unlocked from inside.
In the locked position my bolts go behind the wooden door posts, so they now become weak points.
To strengthen them, I fitted several extra long screws to make sure that each vertical wooden door post was well tied in to the surrounding brickwork,

David :D
 
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