Fuji HVLP - Worth Getting?

[wcndave]

I do a lot of varnishing of both large (cupboards) and small (kids toys) wooden products.

I was thinking of getting something like this:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/fuji-fuji-q4-gold-xpc-pro-hvlp-system-prod810306/, however don't know if it's worth it, for a number of reasons.

• - can you really get a good finish with these? in the past with friends systems, i found i have either an orange peel effect with too little sprayed, or, to get rid of that, need complete coverage and then lots of runs, and problems in corners etc, where it accumulates...

• - There seem to be about a million types of finishes discussed, and the order / manner of applying, so i get an idea of what i want to do and then go to B&Q and they have "varnish" so i never end up with what i intended, can i spray the bog standard products i actually can buy with this?

• - usage: i only finish every couple of weeks, and would prefer to not have to empty out all the canisters etc, can one just leave a particular finish in there, or do you need to empty and clean every time? if you do,

• can you leave if for one day (eg multiple coats) and then empty / clean? and what products are used to clean this?

• - does one need a booth, or only use outside, or are these low pressure systems ok for smaller (4m sq) workshops?

• - anyone have any experience of using this product that would recommend or not?

sorry for so many questions, but as i'm only a hobby woodworker, want to make sure i am getting the right thing if i'm going to lay out £600!!

thanks in advance

Dave

 

[yetloh]

I don't profess to be an expert here but I have an earlier version of the Q3 and find it excellent. I doubt you really need the Q4. I spray pre-catalysed melamine lacquer which is spirit based and do it outdoors but I am sure you could use water based finishes in your workshop. You definitely need to clean the gun every time you use it. When buying a finish you need to buy one that is suitable for spraying. It is worth going to a specialist supplier like Morrells where you can get advice. Have a look at the latest British Woodworking which has an article on HVLP systems - hven't read it myself yet.

Jim

 

[wcndave]

Thanks, problem is that i live in italy so also trying to do it in a language i don't speak!!

when you say clean always, do you mean that if i want to do 3 very thin coats, that might take 20 mins to dry, that I have to clean out each time?

also can you recommend something "standard" for finishing a) furniture and b) child safe lead free for toys, that i can spray, that is really readily available that one might just buy in a B&Q type place?

 

[yetloh]

I see your problem! No you don't need to wash out that frequently - just at the end of a session.

I can't recommend anything specifically but it seems to me your best bet is have a look round at the finishes that are readily available and then email the technical departments of the makers to ask their advice.

The other option is shellac which certainly is sprayable. You probably won't be able to buy it in a B&Q type place but you can buy the shellac flakes from Axminster or from Dick in Germany (who are excellent and speak English) which you then dissolve in denatured alcohol (meths without the colouring, but meths itself is perfectly OK). This is done at the rate of 100g to 400ml of alcohol which gives what is known as a 1lb cut. You can dissolve more to increase the viscosity but a 1lb cut should be fine for spraying. Shellac is harmless to children but it is a natural product and may contain impurities. For this reason, and to remove any undissolved flakes it is important to filter it before use; an old stocking is ideal.

An advanatage of shellac, particularly for spraying, is that it is not chemically altered in the drying process so if your gun does get gummed up, you can easily dissolve it away by soaking the parts in alcohol.

Shellac is a traditional furniture finish and not as hard wearing as modern finishes but is fine for toys. Whether it is suitable for your cupboards will depend on usage. For these, I would be inclined to try to identify a water borne finish which is sprayable. I believe many are, but you may need to dilute it a little to lower the viscosity. Fuji supply different size gun needles for different finish viscosities.

Hope this is of some help.

Jim

 

[mrbingley]

I've just bought a tin of " Liberon Interior Varnish ". It's a water based product, & needs no thinning. So when you've finished spraying you can just pour it back into the can.

The man where I got it just told me to spray a mist coat first which goes off in a few minutes. Then I upped the spray feed a touch & sprayed another coat.

Very pleased with the result. Any kind of finishing is definitely not one of my strong points.

I bought a " Bosch 105 " hvlp, which is OK for a spray novice like myself.

HTH
Chris.

 

[jimmy rivers]

Hi wcndave

We've been using a Q4 for a while and have been getting excellent results with Morrells finishes (ac and wb). We updated the original gun to a 'no bleed' gravity feed which made a difference. I think 'no bleed' is standard now? We run gunwash through at the end of ever session even if we are using it the next day. We use a booth as even though there's less there's still over spray. A mask is a must. Outside is probably fine, just don't do it next to the Ferrari.

Italy...very nice

 

[wcndave]

do you think the gravity feed is better / easier than the other type?

i was also thinking about getting some of those "disposable" white plastic containers, and actually storing finishes in them, then just attach the one that i want, spray, when done put the top back on.

one of the containers could have the cleaning fluid.

is that possible? or not recommended to store finishes in those containers?

 

[jimmy rivers]

do you think the gravity feed is better / easier than the other type?

i was also thinking about getting some of those "disposable" white plastic containers, and actually storing finishes in them, then just attach the one that i want, spray, when done put the top back on.

one of the containers could have the cleaning fluid.

is that possible? or not recommended to store finishes in those containers?

Personally I prefer the gravity feed, only because it's what I'm use to. We did find finish would sometimes back up the pressure tube and clog the diaphragm, which was a bit of a pain. This may of been user error/ product quality. I've a pal who's a fan of the suction cup so in conclusion it's what you feel comfortable with.

I like your idea on having different cups. Check with the cup and finish manufacturers guidelines as well as your local COSHH regs. Watch out for finishes that you mix, such as 2 pack lacquers for example, as they have a limited shelf life once mixed.

I'm by no stretch a finishing expert but you won't be disappointed by the Fuji HVLP

Hope this helps, cheers Jim