Freeing a stuck router collet

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chaoticbob

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I've not changed the bit on my little Bosch router for a year or more - I've only been using it for making grooves so have just left the appropriate bit in place. But today I wanted to change it and found the collet is stuck fast in the spindle, and obviously the bit stuck fast in the collet. I've tried gentle bashing/twisting, but it won't shift. Any suggestions? Preferably non- destructive!
I've sorted similar problems with metalworking machines by carefully running the bit into a workpiece with the retaining nut or drawbar removed - vibrations free things up without damage to machine or me. But I'm wary of trying this with a handheld machine running at a fixed speed of 18,000 rpm! But maybe it would be OK...
Rob
 
try some duck oil or other releasing agent and let it sit for a day and then try to release it. wrap the bit in some thick cloth and use a plumber wrench if you must as a last resort after making sure the shaft can't move.
 
I've had the same problem when I continued to use my 1/4" Bosch with a cracked collet. In the end I grabbed the cutter by the steel, avoiding the carbide, with a pair of mole grips and twisted until it came out. Good clean of the socket and a new collet fixed it.
 
If its the very small Bosch I have a little knowledge of you need to be a bit careful or you can damage the spindle lock.As mentioned earlier a squirt of penetrating oil will probably help and give it lots of time.If a few sharp taps on the collet nut are not enough to dislodge the cutter the next step is to use a spanner-I believe there is a flat steel 10mm spanner in the kit that comes with the router-to hold the spindle-and grip the cutter with a pair of pliers or Mole grips and try to rotate it.If not immediately successful,put the router down and return to it in a day or two.If you can separate the cutter from the collet the very least you need to do is thoroughly clean the collet and it's recess.
 
phil.p":oo21xpy5 said:
Which router is it?

An ancient POF 500A -green, but it's served me well. I like it because it's light and manoeuvrable.
I'll try the various strategies suggested tomorrow.
Thanks for replies, Rob
 
I'll have look and a think tomorrow - the reason I asked is because I have one. It would be easy to damage the spindle lock. Irrelevant, but I found an improvement to that router was to find/turn a little brass "pellet" to go in the left side handle - it locks down more accurately and solidly when both sides lock. :D
 
I have seen a video somewhere in which someone suggests tightening the collet a smidge to break the
"weld" on router bits
I have never done do and am sceptical about it doing so.

Alternatively you can make your own penetrating fluid with a 50/50 mix of break or automatic transmission fluid and nail varnish remover, otherwise known as Acetone.
You will not be able to keep it long though as it will evaporate I believe.
Shake before use

Never made this, but came close a few times :lol:
 
does it matter if the bit survives?

anyways, assuming you've got it out the base, undo the retaining nut about a turn, just enough to give you some movement then use a wedge under the cutter i.e. between the cutter and the retaining nut. a few short sharp wacks should see the cutter pop out, then you can think about the collet if that is stuck.

I have a bearing puller that would do it too, home made for a similar if rather more annoying job.
 
Give it a smack with a lead hammer. Mine gets a lot of use in the workshop, great on the lathe because I can tap even solid carbide cutters with no fear of breaking them.
 
Try to hold the bit in the vice and turn the router or lever it away from the bit. (Wrap the bit in cloth or something to prevent damage).
 
Every router I have used has extracted the collet as the nut is unscrewed. The only exemption being one that had been assembled by inserting the collet and cutter in the machine and following up with the nut, this will secure the bit but not be able to extract the collet after use. If you failed to snap the nut and collet together when assembling, there is at least one answer to your problem but you may not like it.
 
chaoticbob":3mk2vj4o said:
phil.p":3mk2vj4o said:
Which router is it?

An ancient POF 500A -green, but it's served me well. I like it because it's light and manoeuvrable.
I'll try the various strategies suggested tomorrow.
Thanks for replies, Rob

I was given that exact same router by my Uncle. The thing was a bit rusty so became a little restoration project.

I had same issue with bit jammed/rusted in the collet. No ammount of soaking, oiling helped me.

In the end I clamped the bit tight in a vice (i could hear it crunching!) then slowly twisted and pulled the machine itself. Obviously the bit was destroyed but I got it out!
 
Thanks for further replies. I was reluctant to grab the bit in a vice as it was (by my standards) quite expensive, and no chance of using wedges or a puller as it is a 1/4" straight bit . Anyhow, I soaked overnight in 3-in-1 (thinnest oil I had to hand), still stuck, so I followed phil.p ' s suggestion of applying heat. I made a sort of foil shroud to protect the plastic parts and played a hot air gun on the spindle nose/collet/bit - heated it until the oil started to smoke (so maybe 200C ?), tapped it with a rubber mallet and bingo! The machine and bit live to rout another day, and I don't need to buy a new machine :(
I too made a brass pellet to go between the between the locking screw and the plunge base pillar, and as you say Phil, a definite improvement.
Thanks again for all the suggestions, Rob
 
I have both the POF500 and POF600 and am rather fond of them.
Miles Tools in Yeovil used to keep replacement collets - but they're not especially cheap (the collets, I mean). If the collet looks at all worn it might be sensible...

I think the design is a bit prone to jamming, actually - mine do it occasionally. Keeping the collet outside slightly greased seems to help.
 

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