Free hand grinding, guided honing

[scooby]

I was just wondering if it would be useful to get a honing guide. I grind the primary bevel on a bench grinder using the standard tool rest. I try to get the angle as close to 25 degrees as possible (usually check with a sliding bevel set to 25)

I usually hone freehand to get the 30 degree micro bevel, but I thought getting a honing guide would be useful to get consistent bevel.

Would the honing still be useful even if my 'free hand' grinding isn't exactly 25 degrees?

What would be the plan of action when using the guide, grind (if needed) to 25 and then just set the guide to 30 and honing the micro bevel?

Or would some honing on the 25 degree be required? If so, this is the basis of my main question because the the 25 degree angle on the guide would probably be nothing like my attempted 25 grinding angle.

Plus, I like the look of the mk2 veritas guide and want an excuse to buy one

Anyone know the cheapest UK to get the aforementioned guide if I decide to get one.

 

[Anonymous]

Scooby

Yep, that is about it.

Grind to 25 (or whatever) and then hone a bevel to about 30 degrees using the veritas.
Next, you adjust the big brass roller with a little sprung loaded release knob and rotate it. The main axle is offset in the roller and this will tip the blade another degree or so for you to hone a final, highly polished micro bevel.

Dead easy and quick as the nexty few times you sharpen, all you need ot do is regrind the final micro bevel.

Veritas mkII is well wortht he money

 

[scooby]

ah, I thought the 30 bevel was the microbevel?
So it's:

1. Grind to 25(ish)
2.Hone to 30
3.And then add micro bevel.

Do you mean the next time the chisel/iron requires sharpening (barring any nicks or chips happening) all I need to do is set the guide to the microbevel angle or do I set to 30, hone and then add micro bevel?

Thanks for the help.

 

[DaveL]

Scooby,

I sharpen just the micro bevel on the first trip back to the stone.
When that gets a bit wide then go back to the 30º then redo micro bevel.
Repeat this until the 30º bevel is getting wide, then regrind the 25º bevel.
The idea is to remove very small amounts to get back to a good edge, so the process is quick when you are doing it by hand. 8)

 

[bugbear]

ah, I thought the 30 bevel was the microbevel?

Nope; ignoring the bizarre nomenclature of the Lee family (sorry Rob) 30 degrees is the secondary bevel; the 31 degree angle is a microbevel.

Your 25 degree angle is a primary bevel.

This jargon is standard across every reference other than the Lee family...

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Plus, I like the look of the mk2 veritas guide and want an excuse to buy one

Anyone know the cheapest UK to get the aforementioned guide if I decide to get one.

Actually for plane blades (an only plane blades) I prefer using a cheap side clamper and a setting jig; it's quicker to use.

This doesn't alter the fact that I bought and use a LV Mk II.

At the moment APTC have it on offer at 30.00, but watch out for postage.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/5/prod ... 377359.htm

BugBear

 

[George_N]

Like Scooby, I have been grinding a 25 degree primary bevel on my plane irons and then trying to put a 2 degree micro bevel on that. I guess that makes the edge a bit thin and more easily blunted.
Grinding and sharpening seem to be the flavour of the month at the moment...I've learned so much in the last week or so, this is a great forum, thanks guys.

cheers

George