Flush router bit for 60mm hardwood join.

[Jitter]

Osmo is good.
A customer of mine used liberon finishing oil on an oak worktop i made in his art studio. It looked ridiculously good. Next time I'm over there I'll get a photo.
Edit to ask: how far did you go with sandpaper grit? I once went to 3k wet n dry and then waxed, it was pretty darn shiney

Usually when resin is involved I’ll take the wood right up the grades to keep it looking even across the whole piece although once I get past 600 grit, I don’t see the point really as the finish is more likely to make it look and feel more smooth than high grade sandpaper will.

I tend to sand the whole piece up to around 150- 180 grit then first coat the whole thing. This allows the wood to actually take in the oil properly. I’ll just use a rag to apply evenly it at that stage then a dry one to take off excess. Then allow to dry 18 hours or so. Then I’ll hit it with 180-240 then apply another coat but this time using an orbital sander or buffer with a microfibre cloth, another dry one to take off excess again. This works it into the grain. I’ve heard some use scotchbright pads with the orbital which apparently helps to generate heat so the oil goes deeper.

Once dry I will go 320-400-600 on the whole thing then take the resin 800-1000-1200-1500-2000 then polish. I tend to use abralon pads damp with1000 and 2000 grit before polishing resin. I then apply the final coat of Osmo over the whole thing taking off the excess until touch dry and there is no product left on the resin because if it dries on the resin it smears and takes away the polished look.

 

[baldkev]

Does the paper tend to clog up quicker with oiled/ waxed dust?

I recently sent an oak and resin top off to a customer upcountry, she was finishing it herself, i left the oak at 240 grit and went to 2k with the resin. Not quite finished in the photo, but getting there. I left in some of the original milling marks and features for a rustic look , which was requested

 

[Jitter]

Does the paper tend to clog up quicker with oiled/ waxed dust?

I recently sent an oak and resin top off to a customer upcountry, she was finishing it herself, i left the oak at 240 grit and went to 2k with the resin. Not quite finished in the photo, but getting there. I left in some of the original milling marks and features for a rustic look , which was requested

I like the rustic look, it’s not something I’ve dabbled with myself. I think it goes well with the industrial style metal legs etc.
I guess because of the resin having to be polished to a sheen all the time it just makes sense otherwise I find the finish on the wood uneven and patchy where the areas around the resin are shiny and the rest in comparison is dull.

I use Mirka mesh sandpaper with Festool orbitals and Festool extraction. I find this system excellent for keeping the sandpaper as unclogged as possible. One trick I use is to re-use the previous sanding disc to give a quick go over after the oil has dried. This takes off the very surface of the coat, de-nibs and flattens high areas where possibly the grain was raised after applying the oil. I just do a quick go over with that and expect the majority of the waxy surface to clog the sanding disc a little but then change over to the new higher grade disc and find that it doesn’t really clog up any more than usual. I expect the extraction helps allot with this. Without that I think clogging would be a problem.

 

[baldkev]

I did the resin to high grit, than went over the oak , doing the edges near the resin by hand with the grain you just have to be very careful not to catch the resin

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

Thanks. I guess I could use a guide rail against the flat edge of the router base for a straight edge

i would also suggest just using a worktop cutter 12.5 against the side of a rail but dont use the flat part! use any part of the round. if you run off the round it will never be wrong, if you run it off the flat you could unintentionally twist and add bumps... if that makes sense?