Flooring question?

[Rob Cheetham]

I have decided to do a 22mm chipboard subfloor and then get a heavy duty lino to go on top. Below the chipboard will be some extra dpm then 50mm celotex with a vapour barrier before the chipboard.

My question is this. Do I have to put down say 50mm joists to secure the chipboard flooring too or will it sit firm and still by just gluing all the joins together making one big sheet. Or is there some sort of adhesive I could use mayby to stick it to the celotex? There are no joists at the moment as I have just sat the frame on a course of bricks and a 100mm concrete pad.

Im just parnoid that when the lino is stuck down I will feel movement from the subfloor when walking on it if its not secured down.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Cabinetman]

I have decided to do a 22mm chipboard subfloor and then get a heavy duty lino to go on top. Below the chipboard will be some extra dpm then 50mm celotex with a vapour barrier before the chipboard.

My question is this. Do I have to put down say 50mm joists to secure the chipboard flooring too or will it sit firm and still by just gluing all the joins together making one big sheet. Or is there some sort of adhesive I could use mayby to stick it to the celotex? There are no joists at the moment as I have just sat the frame on a course of bricks and a 100mm concrete pad.

Im just parnoid that when the lino is stuck down I will feel movement from the subfloor when walking on it if its not secured down.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I was helping at my brother-in-law‘s eco-house recently and the T and G, OSB board was just laid straight onto the Celotex, glued to it but the osb panels weren’t glued together which I think they should’ve been. No movement in the floor whatsoever, jump up and down on a bit of Celotex it’s very resilient. Ian

 

[Molynoox]

I would be interested in the result if you do this - I wouldn't be brave enough to try it, because if it doesn't work out then its either a very big and expensive fix, or you have to live with floor movement forever. Sorry that's not much help.
Martin

 

[Molynoox]

also, might as well just use SIPS if you are doing that, at least then its all bonded together and it shouldn't move?
Martin

 

[JobandKnock]

Don't glue it to the Cellotex - do use a D4 flooring adhesive on the tongues and pull the joints up nice and tight.

 

[mikej460]

Ditto above. I've laid chipboard directly onto Celotex and glued the tongues and the floor is solid and warm.

 

[MARK.B.]

50mm celotex and 22mm boards on top will be rock solid underfoot , never seen it but it but I think it would take tremendous weight and force ,far more than any you or your machines could exert even if you tried. I used two layers of 9mm ply sheets on my shop floor ,bottom layer just laid in and top screwed to that , expansion gap of around 10mm just in case round the edges , its never moved and nice and warm/comfortable underfoot.

 

[Rob Cheetham]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Sounds like im just worrying over nothing. Got chipboard delievered yeserday. Will get laid when my job gives me a break (sure alot of you can relate )

Thanks again

 

[Sheptonphil]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Sounds like im just worrying over nothing. Got chipboard delievered yeserday. Will get laid when my job gives me a break (sure alot of you can relate )

Thanks again

You’ll be fine. My workshop has exactly that, 22mm chipboard on 50mm celotex. T&G glued with D4. Membrane between chip and celotex.

I have a Jet 3520b lathe, 340kg, plus 60kg of blanks stacked on it. No problem and lathe is solid. The floor ain’t going anywhere. The centre island workbench is 100kg.

 

[Jones]

It's called a floating floor and is common. The t&g joints should be glued and leave enough room (10mm+) all round for expansion of the timber, you can fill that gap with cork strip or use a skirting to cover it. Make sure to buy flooring grade celotex/kingspan which has a high compressive strength.

 

[Rob Cheetham]

You’ll be fine. My workshop has exactly that, 22mm chipboard on 50mm celotex. T&G glued with D4. Membrane between chip and celotex.

I have a Jet 3520b lathe, 340kg, plus 60kg of blanks stacked on it. No problem and lathe is solid. The floor ain’t going anywhere. The centre island workbench is 100kg.

@Sheptonphil thats good to know. Looks like your definetly into your lathe work with that beast haha. Like what you have done with the space. I have ended up going a step futher and ordered 7mm workshop interlocking floor tiles to go on top of the chipboard. Can handle car jacks engine hoists etc so will deffo be good enough for my machinery.

Seems a smallish shop like mine. What size is it. May take some inspiration from it lol

Cheers

Rob

 

[Rob Cheetham]

@Jones thanks for the advice. Yes I was going to leav about 5mm but im glad you said as will now go for 10mm+. Am going to put skirting round once done to cover the gap. Already bought the celotex a while back so heres to hoping it is. Its already down and easily walkable on so think ill be alrite. Thanks again

Rob

 

[clogs]

Sheptonphil....
I like ur w/shop....alas my units will be cast off kitchen units.....
bet u had fun with all the drawers....hahaha...did u use bearing type slides?
I once had a w/shop with that kinda floor....
I used an oil based Sikkens product to seal it....it was a bit like decking sealer...made is nice to sweep up.......when I sold the house I redid the w/shop floor....I know it helped with the house sale....it's not always the woman that decides.....in fact every house I have fixed up n sold always got a decent smart workshop......often just old kitchen units but with the right lighting and decent decorating it sure makes for an easy sale......

 

[Sheptonphil]

@Sheptonphil thats good to know. Looks like your definetly into your lathe work with that beast haha. Like what you have done with the space. I have ended up going a step futher and ordered 7mm workshop interlocking floor tiles to go on top of the chipboard. Can handle car jacks engine hoists etc so will deffo be good enough for my machinery.

Seems a smallish shop like mine. What size is it. May take some inspiration from it lol

Cheers

Rob

It’s my escape room I can spend hours in there quite happily.

Internal dimension is 3.8m wide, 7.4m long. I then put a separate room at the rear through the door with the dust extractor (piped throughout the workshop), sink, compressor and welding bench. The best thing was the 50 drawer system I built as storage along the right hand side. slim and medium drawers are so much more efficient as accessible storage than cupboards or shelves. Tools in cupboards or on shelves don’t work. The storage above the right bench is french cleat with custom holders for aerosols, glues, lubricants, and all manner of things.

I bought the lathe from Axminster as a retirement present to myself. I re-kitted the old workshop out in my last year of work knowing I’d never get the opportunity to spend that sort of money on tools again. I upgraded the bandsaw, lathe, pillar drill, Mortiser, table saw, belt/disc sander, linisher, thicknesser, routers and track saw in one year. All quality tools that will see me through and probably step son as well when I’m gone.

 

[Rob Cheetham]

It’s my escape room I can spend hours in there quite happily.

Internal dimension is 3.8m wide, 7.4m long. I then put a separate room at the rear through the door with the dust extractor (piped throughout the workshop), sink, compressor and welding bench. The best thing was the 50 drawer system I built as storage along the right hand side. slim and medium drawers are so much more efficient as accessible storage than cupboards or shelves. Tools in cupboards or on shelves don’t work. The storage above the right bench is french cleat with custom holders for aerosols, glues, lubricants, and all manner of things.

I bought the lathe from Axminster as a retirement present to myself. I re-kitted the old workshop out in my last year of work knowing I’d never get the opportunity to spend that sort of money on tools again. I upgraded the bandsaw, lathe, pillar drill, Mortiser, table saw, belt/disc sander, linisher, thicknesser, routers and track saw in one year. All quality tools that will see me through and probably step son as well when I’m gone.

@Sheptonphil mine is 5.2x3.1m so a bit smaller but I know I can make it work. My plan is to build a bench with draws at one short end wall then build a outfield table/assembly table to run behind my cabinet saw. Im hopefully going to integrate two flip top mechanisms in it to accomdate my mitre saw and scroll saw (the scroll saw was what started me into woodworking). Then my pillar drill, band saw and P/T will run againsts the opposite short wall all on mobile bases so I can move them if needs be. Cyclone extractor will be in the corner. If I ever get a CNC machine I will probably have to move the scroll saw and rebuild the flip top to accomdate the CNC. Lathe will be the last thing I buy and will rearrange to accomadate. My router table I will eventually incorporate into the right side space of my cabinet saw.

Thanks for the tip on drawers being better. I will take that into consideration. Will be also looking at a french cleat system mayby above the bench but all in good time lol.

As for axminster. My pt, scroll saw, pillar drill and router table are all from there. I love the place. Kind of like a toys r us for adults that like tools and machienry haha. Havent been in a while but going up in the next couple weeks to have a look and enquire about one of there cyclone extraction systems. Im stuck between there 3hp one or the laguna c flux 3.

Thanks again for the reply and help

Rob