Floating shelf spanning perimeter of room.

[Oscar43634]

Afternoon all,
I’ve been asked to make a floating shelf that goes around the perimeter of a room for some friends; approximately 200mm depth, 40mm thick and painted gloss white.

I’ve attached photos of how they would like it but this is a bit bigger job than I’m used to and trying to figure out best material and method to install. My worry is trying to get everything to line up, usually I would use threaded bolts into the brickwork but maybe rather difficult for such an expanse?

I don’t have access to the place yet as they haven’t moved in so I only have the photos and dimensions of the room but would like to order timber this week. I don’t have access to a planer/thicknesser so my instinct at the moment is go with PSE redwood (they prefer solid wood so no MDF torsion box) and hope it stays flat and level.

Any tips would be much appreciated.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

A laser level would be perfect for this or a water level if you are old school.

 

[Cabinetman]

Yes a self leveling laser level, try and get/sort through the pile of timber to get quartersawn as particularly when you go round the chimney breast it will look terrible when it starts to cup, first impression is I wouldn’t use mitre joints go round the chimney breast, I can imagine all sorts of problems if you do. Interesting let’s see what others say. Ian

 

[recipio]

Its going to be an expensive job no matter how you approach it. I presume you mean using completely invisible hardware ? I did one job like this and the crucial thing is that your brackets are adjustable. I see loads of brackets online but they are not adjustable and are difficult to mount absolutely level (into masonry anyway).The best brackets I found were those available from Rockler in the US who sell heavy duty adjustable brackets which will support a 4 foot length. You will need to be able to drill a 5" hole in the back of the shelf vertically for the bracket and also mill a recess in the back to hide the mounting plate.
Solid wood is the easiest option but I think I would let it acclimatise in a warm room before cutting.

 

[Oscar43634]

Yes a self leveling laser level, try and get/sort through the pile of timber to get quartersawn as particularly when you go round the chimney breast it will look terrible when it starts to cup, first impression is I wouldn’t use mitre joints go round the chimney breast, I can imagine all sorts of problems if you do. Interesting let’s see what others say. Ian

Glad you bought up the chimney breast; I think I'll avoid mitres around that.
Looks like a laser level will pay off in this situation. Thanks

 

[Oscar43634]

Its going to be an expensive job no matter how you approach it. I presume you mean using completely invisible hardware ? I did one job like this and the crucial thing is that your brackets are adjustable. I see loads of brackets online but they are not adjustable and are difficult to mount absolutely level (into masonry anyway).The best brackets I found were those available from Rockler in the US who sell heavy duty adjustable brackets which will support a 4 foot length. You will need to be able to drill a 5" hole in the back of the shelf vertically for the bracket and also mill a recess in the back to hide the mounting plate.
Solid wood is the easiest option but I think I would let it acclimatise in a warm room before cutting.

Good point; I'll look into adjustable hardware, as I'm sure the walls are not going to be perfectly flat or square.

 

[Doug71]

I would say unless you get a good laser level you are as well just using a decent spirit level and flipping it end to end each time you mark a line on the wall, the cheap laser levels sometimes aren't that accurate and if it's not spot on it's useless.

Regarding the timber I would encourage the customer to maybe think again about the torsion box thing. An 11' length of 8"x2" is a fair weight to hang off the wall with no proper brackets to support it.

If you do use redwood don't just get some 8"x2", plane it up and put it on the wall as it will have the heart down the middle and will crack and cup, I would at least get some unsorted 9"x2", cut the heart out of the middle then rejoin it leaving you with 8" but it would be better laminated out of more pieces if possible.

You might be able to cut down some flush doors and use them, I know they will only be 6'6" long but they are cheap enough and are ready made torsion boxes? Some of the door blanks are a bit like thick blockboard, they could also work.

 

[PerryGunn]

If they want 'solid' wood rather than MDF, would they consider sections of something like a short stave worktop?

You could get a 4m oak, beech or <insert preference> worktop and cut it down to strips of the appropriate width/length - should resolve any issues with cupping and they can look very nice once oiled

Edit: just noticed you're going to paint it anyway so ignore the 'oiled' bit

 

[Oscar43634]

If they want 'solid' wood rather than MDF, would they consider sections of something like a short stave worktop?

You could get a 4m oak, beech or <insert preference> worktop and cut it down to strips of the appropriate width/length - should resolve any issues with cupping and they can look very nice once oiled

Edit: just noticed you're going to paint it anyway so ignore the 'oiled' bit

I hadn't even thought of that; this might be a good option. Thanks

 

[recipio]

I have to second Doug71 above and recommend flush doors. I use them for shelving and they are ideal, being light and very strong. They can be cut down on the tablesaw and reinforced with a batten glued between the outer skins.Being 32 "/ 802 mm wide you will get four lengths at 200 mm wide out of one door. For the blind shelf supports you would have to drill a hole end to end through some 40 x 40 mm softwood ( approx ) and insert it at right angles into the back edge to take the shelf support. A bit of work but economical !?.

 

[baldkev]

If it is being painted, i would push for 2 pieces of ply or m/r mdf laminated together to give the thickness... which will also allow you to stagger the joins to create longer shelves, then face the front edge with 2x1 pse or oak ( t and g flooring cut to width ) or something..... which will help you deal with the corners a bit easier. I would say cut the shelves all round ( butt joint ) and once happy with alignment, route a groove in both mating surfaces to take a timber tongue.
Assembly will be a pain in the ***, so either set up some battens with blocks attached at the height of underside of shelf for clamping, or get some plasterboard props.....
For brackets, i would be tempted to use something like these:
https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/floa...MI7eHP1PyS8gIVzsLtCh3d1AaOEAQYEiABEgKwePD_BwE
Its worth saying that i previously had some of these that you set using the rod with a threaded end to screw in or out to set horizontal and they were extremely good.... although i wouldn't fix them to plasterboard as it will crush and deflect a bit.... i used them on a plastered block wall very successfully.


And lastly, post photos when youve done it!

 

[Torx]

If it is being painted, i would push for 2 pieces of ply or m/r mdf laminated together to give the thickness... which will also allow you to stagger the joins to create longer shelves, then face the front edge with 2x1 pse or oak ( t and g flooring cut to width ) or something..... which will help you deal with the corners a bit easier. I would say cut the shelves all round ( butt joint ) and once happy with alignment, route a groove in both mating surfaces to take a timber tongue.
Assembly will be a pain in the ***, so either set up some battens with blocks attached at the height of underside of shelf for clamping, or get some plasterboard props.....
For brackets, i would be tempted to use something like these:
https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/floa...MI7eHP1PyS8gIVzsLtCh3d1AaOEAQYEiABEgKwePD_BwE
Its worth saying that i previously had some of these that you set using the rod with a threaded end to screw in or out to set horizontal and they were extremely good.... although i wouldn't fix them to plasterboard as it will crush and deflect a bit.... i used them on a plastered block wall very successfully.


And lastly, post photos when youve done it!

Not the best picture but I did a long floating shelf using those very brackets not long ago

I used an offcut of solid timber worktop, 30mm thick (are 38 or 40mm the other standard worktop thicknesses?). If you could get your hands on a few offcuts of this stuff from a kitchen fitters skip it’s great stuff, this sat in a damp shed for 3 years before I thought of a use for it and was straight as an arrow. I routed recesses in the rear to make it fully flush, and made some slots 2/3 way into each end to support the very ends with a sliver of timber screwed to the adjacent walls. I oversized the holes and used threaded inserts with grub screws underneath to hold it all in place.

The brackets weren’t great quality and I had to persuade a few of them to straighten up. If I did it again I’d probably make my own brackets the full thickness of the shelf (or near) allowing 4 fixing holes. With two you need lots of them and it can start to become a real pain to line everything up.

Even for this one span it was pretty involved, you have your work cut out - I hope they’re paying you!

Edit: 200mm deep I’d just buy a whole cheap solid wood worktop and cut it up. At least you know it will be straight rather than messing about with the awful quality / silly price timber at the moment.

 

[BRYN STOCKER]

Good morning. Loads of great ideas here guys. I’m drawn back to the remark that they want wood, making an MDF construction impractical. Is this purely because they want a wood finish or do they have an aversion to MDF? If they want a wood look, how about using a ‘sandwich’ construction with softwood battening and veneered MDF? If it’s about the possible emissions from the MDF, use Medite moisture resistant MDF…the solid green one. This contains a different resin component, not the much-feared Formaldehyde. This is the only board I use as it gives a far superior finish when routed, sanded and painted. Good luck anyway.

 

[Lancashire Wood Studio]

Afternoon all,
I’ve been asked to make a floating shelf that goes around the perimeter of a room for some friends; approximately 200mm depth, 40mm thick and painted gloss white.

I’ve attached photos of how they would like it but this is a bit bigger job than I’m used to and trying to figure out best material and method to install. My worry is trying to get everything to line up, usually I would use threaded bolts into the brickwork but maybe rather difficult for such an expanse?

I don’t have access to the place yet as they haven’t moved in so I only have the photos and dimensions of the room but would like to order timber this week. I don’t have access to a planer/thicknesser so my instinct at the moment is go with PSE redwood (they prefer solid wood so no MDF torsion box) and hope it stays flat and level.

Any tips would be much appreciated.

What about a torsion box with veneered top and bottom with a solid wood front edge. Then encourage them not to paint it because it looks so good!
I’d be careful with leaving enough space for curtains to hang either side of windows and I’m sure that you’ve thought of how the door will open. A laser level would be useful. Have fun!

 

[peter-harrison]

One thing- you won't need wall spikes where there's an internal corner as shelves at right angles will support each other. You could use simpler and much cheaper cleats screwed to the wall, with grooves routed into the backs and ends of the shelves.