Flawless finish on picture frames

[Dajope]

Hi - This is my first post after weeks of trying to research how to achieve a flawless painted finish on some wooden picture frames, I can't find this in books and the internet has produced lots of different options, which at the moment I am uncertain of. I am an artist and photographer but I tend to like to make my own frames to show my work as what is commercially available is either terrible quality or incredibly expensive. I can confidently build uncoated frames to a sufficient quality, but now need a totally grain free, smooth, flawless, glass finish on the frames. I am planning to build 8 frames in white and 2 in black. I am not after a high gloss finish, but something, semi-gloss, or satin, the most important thing is that they are totally flawless.

I've read online and on here about grain filler and an interesting post about snooker cues using AC lacquer, but I am really uncertain about the best method and sequence of steps and would hugely appreciate some advice before I go spending money on different products to experiment with. Just another note that I do not currently have spraying facilities. I have also started to look into having the frames sprayed at a professional finishers, but would really like to do the job myself. Many thanks in advance.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Rustins used to do black and white plastic coating - that can be glossed or flattened to the finish required. Check them out.

 

[nev]

...but now need a totally grain free, smooth, flawless, glass finish on the frames. I am planning to build 8 frames in white and 2 in black. I am not after a high gloss finish, but something, semi-gloss, or satin, the most important thing is that they are totally flawless. ....

What immediately springs to mind is
Totally flawless + wood (a natural material) = nigh on impossible without years of practice, skill, the correct tools, materials and finishes.

Alternatively you could use MDF, a suitable primer and paint. Have a look at the likes of Plastikote for aerosols.

You may also consider getting them laser cut from thin mdf, ply or acrylic and using that as a face for conventional frames.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

An utterly flawless paint finish is very difficult and time-consuming to achieve, and is consequently expensive. The final quality of the final coat depends entirely on what's underneath it.

Fill the grain of the wood, allow the filler to dry, and rub down thoroughly with an abrasive. Apply a primer coat. Allow to dry, and rub down again. Apply another primer coat. Rub down again. Keep going like this until the surface is as smooth as glass - it may need many coats, and it will need a LOT of rubbing down. Now apply an undercoat - a paint with plenty of colour body. Allow to dry and rub down. If you've rubbed through to primer at any point, recoat and allow to dry again. Rub down again. Once you have a glass-smooth, flawless finish, apply a gloss coat. Allow to dry, and rub back with a cutting compound. Apply varnish if required - use several very thin coats.

Use a top quality paintbrush, apply paint quickly and work out to an even thin coat. Lay off with very light strokes in the same direction. Always keep a wet edge - never try to apply fresh paint to a dried edge (allow to dry fully and cut back). Use paint that will 'flow' to a flat surface, and not show the brush strokes - coach enamel is good. Don't try painting in the cold - it won't set, and won't flow.

I've seen flawless coach-painted finishes on preserved railway vehicles, but the work to achieve it is only really possible with volunteer labour. The cost would be astronomical otherwise. Many years ago, I worked (voluntarily) with a time-served coachpainter; he could achieve such finishes. He said he didn't like sprayguns because they left brush-marks.

Another alternative might be to look for pre-finished frame mouldings, and use those.

A final thought - do the finishing before assembling the frame. Trying to get a good finish in an internal corner is a real PITA.

 

[Dajope]

Rustins used to do black and white plastic coating - that can be glossed or flattened to the finish required. Check them out.

I'd found references to the rustins plastic coat, but again wasn't sure if it was right sort of thing, thanks for the advice though - I have also had a go with a fine poly filler, which is sort of getting there, but still not quite right and doesn't seem to be fine enough. I will persevere!

 

[Dajope]

...but now need a totally grain free, smooth, flawless, glass finish on the frames. I am planning to build 8 frames in white and 2 in black. I am not after a high gloss finish, but something, semi-gloss, or satin, the most important thing is that they are totally flawless. ....

What immediately springs to mind is
Totally flawless + wood (a natural material) = nigh on impossible without years of practice, skill, the correct tools, materials and finishes.

Alternatively you could use MDF, a suitable primer and paint. Have a look at the likes of Plastikote for aerosols.

You may also consider getting them laser cut from thin mdf, ply or acrylic and using that as a face for conventional frames.

this certainly sounds like something to consider, the frames don't need to be any particular material, it is purely an aesthetic effect I am trying to achieve - I realise it is going to be a lot of work and I am ok with that, I have until January to get this work done and am willing to put the time in.

 

[MMUK]

FWIW, I'd just get some composite frame in stock length then cut, mitre & bond to suit. You can get virtually any RAL colour plus foiled wood effect finishes.

 

[Dajope]

I have thought about buying in moulds already coated, I know there are now a huge range of colours available, but I have never been able to hide the mitred corners of these moulds. Once the mould has been cut and joined - wouldn't I still have to fill that join and as soon as you start sanding that the finish would be removed which defeats the point of using the pre-finished moulds? Unless I am thinking about this incorrectly - any ideas?

 

[thick_mike]

I think the post from CheshireChappy above is the way to go (especially if you have the time). You won't get a perfect flat flawless finish straight off the brush (or even from the spray gun)...the key is in the preparation (what lies beneath), abrasives and polish.

 

[Dajope]

I think you might be right thick_mike - there is some tolerance in terms of how flat it is, it has to appear as a completely single object though i.e. can't see the joins or the wood grain. I know you can buy pre-made frames like what I am after in big supermarkets beginning with S, but I need a specific size and shape. I am just wondering if anyone has any experience of using an industrial paint finshers something like this http://www.sprayfinishing.org.uk/. I'm going to call round a few today to get quotes. Any ideas of prices and if I will get the finish I want

 

[MMUK]

I have thought about buying in moulds already coated, I know there are now a huge range of colours available, but I have never been able to hide the mitred corners of these moulds. Once the mould has been cut and joined - wouldn't I still have to fill that join and as soon as you start sanding that the finish would be removed which defeats the point of using the pre-finished moulds? Unless I am thinking about this incorrectly - any ideas?

You shouldn't need to sand the composites. You can get a product similar to ColorFil for the mitred joints

 

[Rhossydd]

Rustins used to do black and white plastic coating - that can be glossed or flattened to the finish required. Check them out.

I'd found references to the rustins plastic coat, but again wasn't sure if it was right sort of thing,

The Rustins product does dry so hard and thick that it can sanded down with wet & dry and finished to a mirror finish(or left 'satin' with 1200grit). The problem is that they only make the clear version now, so to get solid colours you need to add a powdered pigment and it takes a degree of experimentation to get the right proportions.

I think I agree with others that wood and 'flawless' opaque colour isn't a great option for framing art work.

 

[Giff]

As others have posted buying in the moulding maybe the best solution. Try here http://www.lionpic.co.uk/moulding.aspx and then consider getting a guillotine, Axminster do a good one, and use a felt tip on the mitres before clamping the frame up. This Titebond glue is very good as well http://www.axminster.co.uk/titebond-wood-moulding-glue.

 

[paultnl]

I have never tried it myself, but when I read the original question I immediately thought of this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gesso

 

[nev]

Casting! cast your own in resin or similar. build a mould, cast away, glass like finish , no mitres. sorted

 

[rdesign]

MDF should solve most of your problems just make sure to bondo the edges and then sand them it filles the pores. a picture of the style of frame your going for would help.

regards Rick