flat bottomed 25mm hole

[Essex Barn Workshop]

This is the old leaf that I’m replacing in solid oak.

And this is with the hinge removed

Hope that explains.

 

[Ttrees]

Hello again
From looking at forstner bits, don't think you will get a clean hole off the edge of something without a spur in the cut, and the cheaper ones being more likely to dance about doing this challenging job for a forstner bit.
Have you extra material so you could drill a non overhanging hole and rip it afterwards to expose the side?
You could chisel the bottom if your ground forstner bit is not working.

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

Hello again
From looking at forstner bits, don't think you will get a clean hole off the edge of something without a spur in the cut, and the cheaper ones being more likely to dance about doing this challenging job for a forstner bit.
Have you extra material so you could drill a non overhanging hole and rip it afterwards to expose the side?
You could chisel the bottom if your ground forstner bit is not working.

Great idea about making a non-overlapping hole then cutting through, I may well do that. Thanks

 

[CornishWoodworker]

I had same issue
Just bought two foresters, same size.
Ground the brad off one off them and used that too achieve flat bottomed hole without piercing the finished surface.
The depth of the hole kept the bit in correct orientation

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

I had same issue
Just bought two foresters, same size.
Ground the brad off one off them and used that too achieve flat bottomed hole without piercing the finished surface.
The depth of the hole kept the bit in correct orientation

Yes, exactly the conclusion I came to as well. There may be better ways, but for these one-off four holes that has worked for me, although I will experiment with Ttrees idea (above).

 

[Racers]

This just poped up in an Axminister Email

https://www.axminstertools.com/axca...Drilling+Accessories20201020Manual+-+Targeted
Its a bit spendy!

Pete

 

[custard]

Axminster used to sell this useful circle/hole cutting jig,

Working to a similar principle you could drill out a hole to your required diameter in, say, 15mm MDF. Then fence up the MDF so it can be accurately located on the workpiece. Then run a bottom cutting, bearing guided router bit around your MDF jig to get a flat bottomed hole to a precise depth and a precise diameter.

Router cut holes, made with a light finishing cut from a sharp cutter, are extremely clean and professional looking.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Three things spring immediately to mind from your picture

(1) Use an offcut aligned with the edge of the work and tightly clamped to it, to deal with the breakout.

(2) Those look horrid quality Forstners (I have some just like them!). Buy a couple of decent ones to do this if it matters. Bear in mind that the rim of the forstner usually goes slightly deeper than the "auger" blades of it - if that matters you may have to consider changing the design, as you cannot easily get around that.

(3) Experiment in the same wood as the finished object. If you are doing that, you are unlikely to have success with this as the wood is too coarse grained to do what you are trying...