Fixing for box lining

[SimonStevensCanes]

I’ve made a simple sapelle jewellery box that I’m lining with maple. I’ve got a decent but not perfect fit on the sizing and mitres, so I don’t think leaving the lining floating is an option, and I’m unsure how to fix. My current plan is a few dabs of ca for the bottom panel, and more ca for the mitres.



I suspect thats there is a generally accepted way of fixing the lining, if anybody could share, that would be great .

 

[Rorton]

nice box!

 

[custard]

I suspect thats there is a generally accepted way of fixing the lining, if anybody could share, that would be great .

The most common method of fixing wooden box linings isn't to fix them at all! Seriously, they're generally left loose as they're an interference fit and so are perfectly secure like that. If yours are a bit rattly then a dab of glue is okay, providing the grain direction is uniform between the box and the lining.

 

[marcros]

for me, it would depend on how tight the fit was but CA has no gap filling properties. I dont really like the stuff because I usually end up sticking myself to something. My first option would be to try and wedge them in, particularly the bottom which I presume is the first piece to put in. A match stick, slither of wood, even card etc. Next option, knowing what I have in my stash of stuff, I would use either liquid hyde glue or double sided tape. If using glue, I would put a small amount in the centre of each panel and I would be happy that fit cannot bleed through. Tape would be easier. The aim is to stop them rattling about but not stop any seasonal movement.

Having done all of that, I would also line the box with some suede or similar. If you want to get fancy, you can make some matching lined inserts- ring tray, ear ring holder, etc. These are really easy but look good and the trick is getting the right sponge/foam. Bath sponge is better than washing up sponge from memory. If you choose to do a tray, then the supports for this would hold the wooden lining sides in place, killing 2 birds with one stone.

 

[marcros]

I bow to Custard's greater knowledge and would always recommend doing what he suggests rather than what I do.

 

[Padster]

I too would bow to @custard as I’ve just used his methodology from the sticky on the Joinery forum - highly recommend reading that!

Padster

 

[Jester129]

Nice box, can we see the lid please?

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

I’ll post updated photos a bit later.

Yes I’m not surprised that the general rule is don’t fix them. My fit is good enough to be left as is, no rattle just not perfect aesthetics and I am a perfectionist .

I do have to keep reminding myself not to let perfect be the enemy of done.

I shall try shimming with some thing to see if I can improve the fit, but I will have to give a couple of dabs of glue for the lining bottom as that is grossly undersized such that it has to be perfectly positioned to not show gaps.

It’s just occurred to me that the box is currently in the (< 10c) workshop, so there will definitely be wood movement when it’s brought inside, and any gaps could improve (or worsen).

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Thanks for the advise on wedging, I took some packing paper and a after an hour of fiddly adding and removing I managed to close up all the gaps to a nice tolerance.

Now I’m sat here typing this, I realise that painters tape on the back of each insert would have been a much quicker mechanism as it wouldn’t have shifted . Ah well, live and learn.

With the inserts complete and the epoxy set up (used to fill a large gap in the lid that I hadn’t spotted prior to glue up ) I could do the final sanding and bevel some corners.

Pictures as requested...



I’m a bit stuck on what finish to use now. I figuring something glossy

 

[marcros]

what finishes do you have, or is it a matter of buying something? I struggle with the maple/sycamore and something darker combination tbh. I would brush on shellac for the maple but ideally I prefer an oil on the darker timber. Although I prefer to avoid different finishes on the same item where possible, I would probably oil the spell, then brush ultra blonde (or whatever they call it) shellac on everything.

TEST IT ON SCRAP FIRST THOUGH (no apologies for shouting!)

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

this is what I have. Happy to buy others though.

 

[marcros]

try the osmo of all of those. I am not sure of the effect on the maple.

 

[billw]

Although I prefer to avoid different finishes on the same item where possible, I would probably oil the spell, then brush ultra blonde (or whatever they call it) shellac on everything.

I think there's "super blonde" shellac available.

 

[marcros]

that may be it. It was the lightest, dewaxed one I could get in flake form. It is in an unmarked bag and I have had it years. I dont recall where it came from. may have been liberon.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

I would probably oil the spell, then brush ultra blonde (or whatever they call it) shellac on everything.

Spell? Do you mean Shell?

I have Boiled Linseed Oil and Teak Oil, presumably they'll be fine. I have some blonde dewaxed liberon shellac on the way

 

[marcros]

Spell? Do you mean Shell?

I have Boiled Linseed Oil and Teak Oil, presumably they'll be fine. I have some blonde dewaxed liberon shellac on the way

The autocorrect on this forum is so aggressive. It will re-correct the word over and over.

Spell was sapele! I wouldn't use the teak oil on it, I have always thought of that for garden furniture.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

I wouldn't use the teak oil on it, I have always thought of that for garden furniture.

but the Linseed oil should be ok? Bloody stinks

 

[custard]

I'm tight for time so I'll just bang out a few salient points,

-Super blonde, like other dewaxed shellac, doesn't have much of a storage life. The old fashioned shellacs, ie garnett or button, last almost forever.

-Never apply any finish inside a box, the smell will linger virtually for ever. One exception is a well cut (say 1/2-1lb) coat of shellac. It's another reason for not fixing in wood box linings.

-Osmo, like all old based finishes, will yellow/darken light timbers. If that's an issue investigate Osmo 3044, Raw Trans Oil. You get all the Osmo protection but none of the yellowing, although over the coming years oxidation and UV light will eventually conspire to darken most timbers.

Good luck!

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

I'm tight for time so I'll just bang out a few salient points,

-Super blonde, like other dewaxed shellac, doesn't have much of a storage life. The old fashioned shellacs, ie garnett or button, last almost forever.

-Never apply any finish inside a box, the smell will linger virtually for ever. One exception is a well cut (say 1/2-1lb) coat of shellac. It's another reason for not fixing in wood box linings.

-Osmo, like all old based finishes, will yellow/darken light timbers. If that's an issue investigate Osmo 3044, Raw Trans Oil. You get all the Osmo protection but none of the yellowing, although over the coming years oxidation and UV light will eventually conspire to darken most timbers.

View attachment 98374

Good luck!

thank you

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Probably this thread out to be in Projects now, but I've started so I'll finish

I finished this up over the weekend, with a coat of boiled linseed oil over the sapelle, and then two coats of shellac over everything as suggested above. It's turned out really nicely, and I'm delighted with the shellac finish, it's a really nice feel in the hands and it has a lovely sheen. My skills however could use some improvement as the application of the shellac is pretty poor, but that's life and I'm not going to obsess over it.