Fitted wardrobes - moisture/ airflow

[JDW]

Hi, I'm building fitted wardrobes in our bedroom with (sealed) mdf carcasses. They are going either side of the chimney breast (which has an air brick). I haven't decided yet whether to run fake doors across the chimney breast and make it look like one big wardrobe.

Anyway, let's say I'm staying with the 2 separate wardrobe plan; I'm not sure whether to completely seal the voids behind the backs of the wardrobes (by running sealant around the edges) to keep any air/ moisture out or put vents in the top and bottom of the backs of the wardrobes to let air flow?

If I do go with plan B should I keep the air brick in?

Any constructive advice/thoughts appreciated.

Cheers, Jim

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Are the cupboards backing against an external or internal wall?
PS I would not remove or block the airbrick - how is the flue above capped?

 

[JDW]

Internal shared partition wall with next door (semi-detached), 1930's brick house. Chimney not capped.

I'm putting in another air brick up higher in the bedroom (front external wall) across the room.

 

[artie]

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is an air brick?

 

[deema]

Brick walls and damp of that era appear to be common without the ability fir them to breath. I would leave at least a 25mm air gap all around. Vertical battens secured to the wall and then the wardrobes is one way if achieving this. If your blanking up to the ceiling a gap on the bottom edge of the blanking piece hidden by the cornice moulding is a solution. Gap hidden on the top of kick board or skirting allows air to flow around.

Paint the back / outside of carcasses against walls with an exterior paint to make them less prone to any condensation that may occur.

 

[porker]

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is an air brick?

A brick with holes in to allow air flow in the cavity or under the floor to allow ventilation

 

[JDW]

Cheers Deema, I like the air gap idea. I was going to put vents in but prefer this.

 

[pe2dave]

Jim, I've had fitted wardrobes in a bedroom for 20 years, no problem with condensation, I'm unclear where you think
the moisture might come from hence why you're considering it?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

I wouldn't bother with anything - air gap or anything else - against the internal walls. I'm guessing the external walls are solid 9 inch (one-brick-thick). In my experience, mould can start to grow on external walls where there is 'dead' air e.g. behind a hanging mirror/picture or moveable furniture. One option might be to fix a panel of say 25mm thick Celotex insulation to the inside of the external wall which will be inside your cupboards - and seal round the edges with expanding foam or silicone - the idea being that these new inner surfaces, which will be impermeable to moist air, will not get as cold and therefore be less likely to be a focus of condensation. Cheers, W2S

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is an air brick?

https://www.practicaldiy.com/general-building/chimney/chimney-blocking-up.php

 

[JDW]

Yes thanks , I'll install insulation between the external wall and the smaller wardrobe (B). I think I'm also going to incorporate air gaps as suggested by Deema, this takes me back to my original question; it's a balance of trying to keep moisture (air) out v letting it flow around the build.

If I install the fake door section I'm not sure whether I'll block up the current air brick or not; given that I'm putting the new air brick in.

Background; we've lived in the house for 15 years and had the off mould spot on the external wall and in the window - especially at this time of year when there's condensation on the window in the morning (the reason for new air brick which will be higher up the wall than the current one).

Wardrobe B. goes in tomorrow, cheers.

 

[Rich C]

Is it a solid exterior wall? My house is late 30s and has cavity walls, they were fairly common at the time.

 

[JDW]

Hi Rich, double skin and insulated before we moved in so how well it was done who knows. Having said that the house warms up quickly and stays warm very well.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi Rich, double skin and insulated before we moved in so how well it was done who knows. Having said that the house warms up quickly and stays warm very well.

In that case I wouldn't bother with any of the precautions we've mentioned at all.

 

[Rich C]

In that case I wouldn't bother with any of the precautions we've mentioned at all.

I agree, we have fitted wardrobes and just fitted the outer face directly to the wall. Damp isn't really an issue in the house (except the uncapped chimney).

 

[deema]

A chimney has to breath to stop it becoming damp, cold air sinks and needs to be vented. The wall next to the chimney and the chimney wall will both be cold and can unless air circulate create damp. If it were me, I’d allow air to circulate around the wardrobe. It’s no extra work and the walls won’t be straight so you need blanking panels to straighten them up.
If you block up and lift up the air brick you will create damp in the walls beneath the air brick unless it’s open downstairs and can breath.

 

[JDW]

Given that these are being built floor to ceiling 18mm mdf (haven't decided on the door material yet) is there any point adding any noise reduction solutions behind the studs?

 

[Cabinetman]

Is that to stop noise from outside the house? Or maybe to stop people outside hearing the screams of people you’ve locked in the wardrobe.

 

[JDW]

noise from next door.