first post ! sadly a ply question

[craigs]

So I am fairly new to wood, i made a few things a looong time ago and just trying to get back into it. so armed with a credit card and an eye for shiny things and an idea, i went on my way to buy some tools for my first project, a TV cabinet-esque-type-thing.

So I like the idea of using plywood, but so that the laminations are showing which will entail cutting a lot of strips and gluing them together to make wider panels to join.

My question is this, which plywood can I use? I like the idea of BB grade birch ply, but im having nightmare trying to find it for under £60 per sheet and everything is at least a 2 hour drive away.

considering I need 4 strips for the face 40mm x 90mm & 40mm x 450mm could i get away with anything a bit cheaper and easier to find that doesnt have voids?

Please forgive the stupidness, wood is not my trade but im hoping to make it a productive hobby as computers are a life drainer

Thanks

Craig

 

[pcb1962]

All cheap (meaning 'cheaper than birch') ply will have voids in my experience.

 

[custard]

So I like the idea of using plywood, but so that the laminations are showing which will entail cutting a lot of strips and gluing them together to make wider panels to join.

That's a super cool look right now. And it's one of those design details (like waney edged tops) that the big boys on the high street can't yet replicate. I know plenty of small independent furniture makers who are making hay with exactly this re-sawn ply strip look.

The trick is to do your resawing and gluing up as accurately as possible, because any levelling off of the surface is murder due to the glass hard UF glue that's used to bond plywood plies together.

To answer your question, there's no real alternative to the thickest possible, top quality, Baltic Birch ply. Even with the best available you'll still get some voids, but it's a manageable quantity. Go for cheaper ply and you'll just scrap the lot because you'll be overwhelmed by voids. Lloyds approved marine ply is an option, completely void free, but then it's much darker hardwood plies which just isn't the look you want. Bottom line is that it's right at the cutting edge of interior design, but it's not a cheap way of building furniture!

Good luck, keep us posted!

 

[craigs]

So I like the idea of using plywood, but so that the laminations are showing which will entail cutting a lot of strips and gluing them together to make wider panels to join.

That's a super cool look right now. And it's one of those design details (like waney edged tops) that the big boys on the high street can't yet replicate. I know plenty of small independent furniture makers who are making hay with exactly this re-sawn ply strip look.

The trick is to do your resawing and gluing up as accurately as possible, because any levelling off of the surface is murder due to the glass hard UF glue that's used to bond plywood plies together.

To answer your question, there's no real alternative to the thickest possible, top quality, Baltic Birch ply. Even with the best available you'll still get some voids, but it's a manageable quantity. Go for cheaper ply and you'll just scrap the lot because you'll be overwhelmed by voids. Lloyds approved marine ply is an option, completely void free, but then it's much darker hardwood plies which just isn't the look you want. Bottom line is that it's right at the cutting edge of interior design, but it's not a cheap way of building furniture!

Good luck, keep us posted!

Its certainly the look i want to achieve, I ended up with a track saw and parallel guide fence for making sure the strips are identical in size, hope the damn thing works as planned. will start to get photos when i find the ply and figure out how the hell im going to cut it without a decent workbench (I feel the dining table is going to be dual purpose)

UPDATE:

This appears harder than I thought to get started, every timber place I have tried do not sell to the public :/ the last one told me to goto travis perkins or B&Q GGRRRRRRRRRRRR this makes me sooo angry.

 

[custard]

This appears harder than I thought to get started, every timber place I have tried do not sell to the public

You could call these people,

http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/products/s ... rn-plywood

They're not the cheapest but their quality is very good, they will deliver to your door, you don't have to be trade nor open an account, they usually pack their sheet goods well so there's no crushed corners. They will band a multiple sheet order together, so either have a stanley knife handy or eat three Weetabix that morning.

Good luck!

 

[craigs]

Aww thanks! they certainly fit the bill, was a bit shocked to see 2 sheets of plywood for £150!! who'd have thunk it...but no point starting with rubbish

 

[custard]

You pay for lots of different things with ply, some you'll need, some you won't. Given that the "show face" will actually be a glue surface (apart from on the edges) you could probably get away with BB, that's a big saving.

If you do hit a major void you could think about filling with 5 minute clear Epoxy (make sure you get a really clear brand, some are slightly yellow), don't bother mixing saw dust with it, I guarantee a well levelled surface will be less visible without any sawdust.

The critical thing with ply construction is to be super accurate and achieve really gap free, tight joints and ultra crisp arrises and edges. Working with solid timber you have much more latitude, the odd mistake here or there (within reason) can add charm to a piece. It just doesn't work like that with sheet goods, it's either flawless and perfect or it looks like carp, there's no third option. Maybe get a quarter sheet of 24mm off Ebay at an extortionate price first to run a proof of concept sample piece, then if you can't hit the quality you want at least you haven't sunk too much cash into the plan?

Good luck!

 

[craigs]

i can see its going to be a challenge, but ill make some test pieces and check the outcome before i go full crazy on it. Im sure if theres an odd void i can fill it and put it somewhere out the way as i have a hundred odd cuts to make. Im also thinking of putting a dark veneer on the front to add a bit of contrast and compliment the dark lines in the ply.

After a bit of research I ended up with a festool TS55 for the cutting and was assured this should give some clean cuts and identical using a parallel guide system

Thanks for all the advice, much needed

 

[otter]

When you say £60 a sheet, what thickness are you talking about?

Give Creffields a ring. They're based in Reading. Predominantly sells to the theatre and entertainment trade, but are happy to sell to private clients as long as you buy enough and will deliver free (normally next day) providing you spend a fair amount. I get all my birch ply from them and it's far, far cheaper than £60 per sheet for 18mm BB stuff. Very very few voids if any per sheet and it's beautiful stuff.

 

[otter]

After a bit of research I ended up with a festool TS55 for the cutting and was assured this should give some clean cuts and identical using a parallel guide system

=D> =D> =D>

THE best track saw, bar none.

 

[sunnybob]

hey, edge lamination plywood... does that mean I'm finally trendy?

 

[craigs]

After a bit of research I ended up with a festool TS55 for the cutting and was assured this should give some clean cuts and identical using a parallel guide system

=D> =D> =D>

THE best track saw, bar none.

thats the rumour although Festool is a slippery slope into poverty. a quick trip to Axminster cost a small fortune for a humble hobbyist with aspirations

I must say though, the router I bought was superior to my old DeWalt..although that was a looong while ago.

 

[craigs]

hey, edge lamination plywood... does that mean I'm finally trendy?

mother of jesus! that is sexy! whats the finish ?

 

[adidat]

Having recently just lined the walls and ceiling of a garden office with this stuff using a ts55 It's a slow process so be prepared for the time it takes. Stop and let the saw breath every few strips otherwise you will cook the motor, saying that the saw has a thermal trip that makes it spin very slowly to let you know it's tired.

Also we paid about £56 not including on 30 sheets so it's not that cheap.

Adidat

 

[sunnybob]

Polyurethane clear gloss varnish diluted with 25% white spirit, wiped on. 2 coats. That ones big, 4.5 Kgs finished weight.

I've made quite a few boxes with laminated ply. and what youve been told above is correct, Even birch ply has some voids, but they are acceptable. Any lesser ply should be considered as concrete shuttering only.

this one is a yin yang box, 7" diameter x 7" deep. Same finish.

.

 

[Racers]

I made this about 20 years ago from 9 feet of ply, with just a jigsaw and hand tools.

Plywood Ring by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

I have used cheap Birch ply from B&Q some years ago it was light in weight but good quality, it still looks good today, I don't know if they supply the same stuff today.

Pete

 

[otter]

I made this about 20 years ago from 9 feet of ply, with just a jigsaw and hand tools.

Plywood Ring by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

I have used cheap Birch ply from B&Q some years ago it was light in weight but good quality, it still looks good today, I don't know if they supply the same stuff today.

Pete

Very nice.

But 9 feet of ply? Fook me, how big is it???

 

[otter]

Bloody pineapples again!

 

[craigs]

I made this about 20 years ago from 9 feet of ply, with just a jigsaw and hand tools.

Plywood Ring by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

I have used cheap Birch ply from B&Q some years ago it was light in weight but good quality, it still looks good today, I don't know if they supply the same stuff today.

Pete

Very nice.

But 9 feet of ply? pineapple me, how big is it???

i may well regret asking this, but how does one get pineappled ?

 

[otter]

i may well regret asking this, but how does one get pineappled ?

From behind, with a big run-up and plenty of lube.