First item off Dakota Chuck

[J-G]

Photo's below of my first work with the XT650 chuck I bought from Rutlands in their Easter 'sale'.

The lid is Walnut but I have no idea what the bowl is. The blank was a present from my sister some time ago (I didn't think to note the species and it's not a wood I recognize through being familiar with its characteristics) which has been on my shelf awaiting inspiration. The bark inclusion had put me off but since reading this forum and hearing about sanding sealer I decided to 'bite the bullet'. The knob is another piece of what I think is the same timber which was in the same parcel of blanks from my sister.

I'm pleased I changed from the XT700 to the XT600 'kit' - on this item I used three different sets of jaws as well as making a jam chuck to finish the inside of the lid.

The bark inclusion did have some voids which I filled with some bronze filings having saved them from an engineering job I was doing last week.

There are 'bloches' which appeared after cutting back the sanding sealer on the edge of the lid which despite a number of attempts I've been unable to remove. I didn't have the same problem with the bowl and it is possible that it's just down to experience but I would like to hear opinion as to the reason.

It's about 100mm dia and 75mm high.

Critique appreciated.

JG

 

[Woodmonkey]

I like it, it has a nice solid chunky look. The patches are probably the end grain which is where the tool is more likely to tear a little and normally require a little more attention when sanding.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

well done JG...keep it up and keep posting

 

[J-G]

well done JG...keep it up and keep posting

Thanks for both the congratulations and the encouragement.

I've solved the 'blotches' issue: It wasn't 'end grain' as woodfarmer reasonably suggested, the blotches were simply burnished sealer which wouldn't cut back with the worn 400 grit I was using - I went back to 240grit and then worked through to 800 so I'm much happier now.

As usual I'm impatient with new products - expecting miracles - and the sanding sealer (which I only bought at the Axi 10 Turners weekend) is no exception. It just takes time to get to know how best to use products. I think I was too heavy-handed brushing the sealer on so I'm now experimenting with cloth and kitchen roll.

JG

 

[Grahamshed]

very nice. I really like the shape.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

well done JG...keep it up and keep posting

Thanks for both the congratulations and the encouragement.

I think I was too heavy-handed brushing the sealer on so I'm now experimenting with cloth and kitchen roll.

JG

I apply sanding sealer with the lathe stationary, using a kitchen towel and with the direction of grain. Go quick or it dries and then you smear it. The only time I use a brush is if bark inclusions or crevices etc and even then I've now started favouring an aerosol sanding sealer for those tricky bits. Once its on if cellulose it dries very quickly ie about 2-3 minutes. By using a cloth instead of a brush you can really push it in to the grain whilst instantly wiping excess off.

 

[winemaker]

Nice shape I like it

 

[J-G]

very nice. I really like the shape.

Thanks, Graham.

I'm sure it's the same for virtually everyone on this forum - I seldom start with a technical drawing (as I would for an engineering project) but try to see what the blank wants to be. In this case the bark inclusion played quite a big part but the bead around the middle was added simply to provide some relief from a plane cylinder.

The angle on the lid was dictated by the angle on the base and the undercutting of the inside was just a learning exercise - something I wanted to do.

 

[J-G]

I apply sanding sealer with the lathe stationary, using a kitchen towel and with the direction of grain. Go quick or it dries and then you smear it. The only time I use a brush is if bark inclusions or crevices etc and even then I've now started favouring an aerosol sanding sealer for those tricky bits. Once its on if cellulose it dries very quickly ie about 2-3 minutes. By using a cloth instead of a brush you can really push it in to the grain whilst instantly wiping excess off.

Very useful information Bob, thanks - yes it is cellulose sealer and I'm now better equipped to use it effectively.

JG

 

[Grahamshed]

I'm sure it's the same for virtually everyone on this forum - I seldom start with a technical drawing (as I would for an engineering project) but try to see what the blank wants to be.

Reminds me of the guy who whittled a 6ft tree trunk down to a one inch little mouse because 'thats what wanted to get out'

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

just to carry on the theme of the OP, the Dakota xt700 I bought at Easter now has the JSCOLE jaws permanently mounted and reverse turning bowls is now an absolute joy its so simple. I now have bowl bottoms that look as loved as all the other bits rather than a jaw marked nightmare

Next offer I think I'll get the smaller one and install the pin jaws that Chas was showing the other day for mounting natural edge bowls. Very handy method that. Today I make a flat on the bark side and then use a face plate. Its a bit cumbersome whereas Chas's method of pre-drilling the hole off the lathe so the jaws pop in in recess mode looked fast

 

[Grahamshed]

:twisted: I was thinking of getting separate lathes for each set of jaws.:twisted: :twisted:

 

[Spindle]

Next offer I think I'll get the smaller one and install the pin jaws

Hi

Bearing in mind that the blank will be considerably out of balance at this stage I think you would be better advised to get another XT700 and mount long nosed gripper type jaws - 6017 are an example:

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/category/chuck-jaws

I have a set permanently fitted to an RP4000 - They're also great for gripping suitable diameter logs straight from the saw and square / round section stock for destined drilling with forstners.

Save the pin jaws for smaller work and the likes of pepper mills.

Regards Mick

 

[J-G]

just to carry on the theme of the OP, the Dakota xt700 I bought at Easter now has the JSCOLE jaws permanently mounted and reverse turning bowls is now an absolute joy its so simple. I now have bowl bottoms that look as loved as all the other bits rather than a jaw marked nightmare

The one negative aspect of the chuck is the time it takes to swop jaws - eight screws in and out. It ought to be a relatively simple matter to design a 'quick-change' mechanism based on an eccentric or key-hole principle - but the end user cost would probably be pushed beyond the means of the target customer.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

such a chuck does exist. It was recently showcased in the US but I can't remember the name. It cost a mint though and there were mutterings of safety on this forum as I recall. I'm resigned to simply buying multiple chucks over time and installing different jaws in each. I believe for me that will end up being 3: regular circa 2" jaws, cole jaws for reverse turning and some kind of pin type jaws like Chas was using the other day for his pre-drilled cherry natural edge bowls.

 

[Robbo3]

As usual I'm impatient with new products - expecting miracles - and the sanding sealer (which I only bought at the Axi 10 Turners weekend) is no exception. It just takes time to get to know how best to use products. I think I was too heavy-handed brushing the sealer on so I'm now experimenting with cloth and kitchen roll.JG

You won't want to watch this, then,
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ud_-GbDzn8

Nearly all the professionals that I've seen use a jar of some description with a brush through the lid & slap on the sealer like there's no tomorrow. I doubt that's for sales reasons as it goes such a long way. Don't forget to protect the bed of the lathe.

At one club demo everyone commented on the finish of the items on show by the demonstrator, Ian Durrant & he was asked how he finished his work. His reply was ; the type of sanding sealer is immaterial whether it be shellac, acrylic or cellulose. Whichever you chose quickly apply as much as the wood will absorb. Wait for it to dry then sand back to bare wood. Now do the same again. This time much less will be required because the pores are already sealed by the first application. Wait to dry then sand again. Do not touch the work & contaminate it with skin oil. Use a tack cloth to remove any dust before applying your selected finish.

 

[Grahamshed]

Thats interesting Robbo, and makes a lot of sense

 

[J-G]

You won't want to watch this, then,
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ud_-GbDzn8

Nearly all the professionals that I've seen use a jar of some description with a brush through the lid & slap on the sealer like there's no tomorrow. I doubt that's for sales reasons as it goes such a long way. Don't forget to protect the bed of the lathe.

At one club demo everyone commented on the finish of the items on show by the demonstrator, Ian Durrant & he was asked how he finished his work. His reply was ; the type of sanding sealer is immaterial whether it be shellac, acrylic or cellulose. Whichever you chose quickly apply as much as the wood will absorb. Wait for it to dry then sand back to bare wood. Now do the same again. This time much less will be required because the pores are already sealed by the first application. Wait to dry then sand again. Do not touch the work & contaminate it with skin oil. Use a tack cloth to remove any dust before applying your selected finish.

Both the video and the description are very useful Robbo - I'll be talking to Chestnut at the Daventry event on Sunday.

JG

 

[Vic Perrin]

such a chuck does exist. It was recently showcased in the US but I can't remember the name. It cost a mint though and there were mutterings of safety on this forum as I recall. I'm resigned to simply buying multiple chucks over time and installing different jaws in each. I believe for me that will end up being 3: regular circa 2" jaws, cole jaws for reverse turning and some kind of pin type jaws like Chas was using the other day for his pre-drilled cherry natural edge bowls.

Hi Bill,
I think that this is the chuck that you are talking about.

http://www.easywoodtools.com/products/easy-chuck/

Cheers

Vic