First go at saw refurb!

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mahking51

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Hi all,
Having been amazed at some of the saws by he who must not be named (Lord MWdemort) I thought I'd have a go at this car boot 50p cheapie. Turns out to be a US saw by R.H Davis; blade is 20cms long with a 4.5cm depth of cut.
It was very dirty and the handle loose and covered in paint. Sadly I did not take a before pic.
I dismantled the handle and cleaned the blade with 0000 wool and mineral spirits; scraped the crud and paintfrom the handle to reveal it was beech underneath. I then sanded the flat portions of the handle with a flat block and the curved bits with a dowel and paper down to 320.
It was then time to give the old mince pies a bit of a workout, the blade is 12 tpi and a lot of the teeth were flat , some high, some low.
The main thing that was odd was that they all looked as thought they were filed at a uniform angle of abour 60 deg or so. There did not seem to be any set at all. I guessed they were rip not xcut.
I ran a mill file across the tops a couple of times until I got small flats, then picked a file that looked about right and refiled each gullet half way then turned round and did the other half. Looked OK and did not take too long.
having never used a saw set before I tried to set the Stanley 42 to it least agressive setting and very gently squeezed every other tooth trying to keep th preseeure the same.
To my astonishment this seemed to work well and when the re shellacced handle went back on the saw cuts oak very fast with a nice thin kerf that is only a bit thicker than my LN dovetail.
Here she is:
davis01.jpg

davis02.jpg


Overall did not turn out to be as much of a drama as I thought it would be; I realise now that the settings for the teeth are way off what they should be and will have another go at trying to get a more conventional result. Lot of fun and learnt that you must try these things.
Regards to all.
Martin

BTW I got rid of the loose handle problem by grinding the threads of the screws down a bit to pull tighter.
 
Nice work, Martin!
Might have to have a go myself. Now if only I could find an old saw around the workshop to try it on :whistle:
Cheers
Philly :D
 
Martin

Looks a proper job, do we now suppose that your shop is now going to full of saws as well as planes?

See you next week.
 
Philly":anz3imbi said:
Nice work, Martin!
Might have to have a go myself. Now if only I could find an old saw around the workshop to try it on :whistle:
Cheers
Philly :D

I have a small pile of them but not the b@#'s or eyesight to have a crack at them (yet). Ive been moaning about my lack of decent saws within earshot of the local authority and mentioning that Wenzloff brand as a price guide. Its not working (yet).
 
Very, very nice job Martin!

Saws are still one of the good buys in old tools. Makes me feel good seeing another one restored to use!

Take care, Mike
 
mr":1hwvtc5q said:
I have a small pile of them but not the b@#'s or eyesight to have a crack at them (yet). Ive been moaning about my lack of decent saws within earshot of the local authority and mentioning that Wenzloff brand as a price guide. Its not working (yet).
Keep trying, Mike, the message will get through eventually :wink: :lol:
Philly :D
 
cleaned the blade with 0000 wool and mineral spirits

My latest trick when cleaning saw blade is a 1x1/2" beech lath, with a 1/8" rebate cut in it. I place this next to the saw blade, so that the tips of the tip are covered by the rebate. Abrasives (e.g. wire wool) can then be run right up to the base of the teeth, rubbing against the lath, without catching on the teeth tips. It also works neatly with SiC wrapped around a sanding block; in this case I rub the end face of the sanding block (which isn't convered in abrasive) against the lath.

This makes cleaning the blade much less traumatic,.

BugBear
 

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