First gazebo project, frame wobble

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JonCamo

Established Member
UKW Supporter
Joined
12 Dec 2022
Messages
117
Reaction score
15
Location
Kent
Dear all

Just finished my first ever timber framing project. When I stand on a ladder and push the frame at each corner there is a slight wobble. The posts sit on stainless steel pins but effectively it is free standing
What recommendations do you have to eliminate the wobble?
Would brackets/shoes to secure posts firmly to concrete below do the trick?
I intend to put a monopitch roof on it so there will be rafters attached

Please be constructive as this is my first go and new to woodworking!!

Regards

Jon
 

Attachments

  • 20230227_081750.jpg
    20230227_081750.jpg
    1.9 MB
  • 20230226_171855.jpg
    20230226_171855.jpg
    4.4 MB
  • 20230226_171844.jpg
    20230226_171844.jpg
    3.7 MB
Sorry not much help, but really nice build, looks great.

That first photo looks like 'Penrose stairs' where they seem to go up and down at the same time :)
 
a very impressive build. annoying for you that it doesn't feel stable

is there equal play / wobble in all directions?

I'd take some more photos with pictures of feet and joints which will give a bit more info for people to advise on
 
Roof will stiffen it up, especially any rafters which triangulate, which should be no prob with your non square plan. Fix them solidly with heavy coach screws, or bolts through perhaps.
 
From your description the movement is at the top so unless the bottom of the posts aren't secure it's because of a lack of cross bracing. I wouldn't be concerned at this stage, as Jacob said the rafters will stiffen the structure so check it after that's done.
Even if there's still very slight movement it's hardly a problem, what materials are you using for the roof?

Nice job btw.
 
Hi

Thank you all for your replies. I will reply when I get 5 minutes. Close up shots will show some of the gaps between braces and posts though!!!
 
I'd get a good solid brace of wood, and two nice heavy clamps, and temporarily put in diagonally struts. Place a strut, check for wobble, move strut, check for wobble etc etc.

I think jameshow's idea of extra bracing at the back makes a lot of sense, wouldn't look out of place and can do no harm (aside from to your wallet)

also as adam.w says, I cant see that additional rafters are going to stop the wobble, it is on a different plane to the wobble from what I've understood
 
a very impressive build. annoying for you that it doesn't feel stable

is there equal play / wobble in all directions?

I'd take some more photos with pictures of feet and joints which will give a bit more info for people to advise on
Thanks

I will get some more pics next day off. I think equal play at all corners but will recheck
 
From your description the movement is at the top so unless the bottom of the posts aren't secure it's because of a lack of cross bracing. I wouldn't be concerned at this stage, as Jacob said the rafters will stiffen the structure so check it after that's done.
Even if there's still very slight movement it's hardly a problem, what materials are you using for the roof?

Nice job btw.
Thanks Lons

The feet aren't bolted in, just sat on pins.
Planning to use 15mm ply then box profile roofing in a monpitch design. My plan is for the highest part of the roof to be parrallel with the long beam on the garden side and the lowest part at the short beam road side. This would mean rafters parrallel and not triangulating as recommended by so of the respondents so may need a rethink....
 
Roof will stiffen it up, especially any rafters which triangulate, which should be no prob with your non square plan. Fix them solidly with heavy coach screws, or bolts through perhaps.

Thanks Jacob. Stainless steel for oak is my understanding. Is there a specific grade of steel needed to prevent corrosion ad staining of the oak?
 
My plan is for the highest part of the roof to be parrallel with the long beam on the garden side and the lowest part at the short beam road side. This would mean rafters parrallel and not triangulating as recommended by so of the respondents so may need a rethink....
I think because your outside beams aren't parrallel, your planned rafters running parrallel must essentially create the strength of a triangle, even if not the literal shape, by the same logic that a diagional brace on a gate creates stability even if it were placed in a way that created two pentagons rather than two triangles (that makes sense in my head)

that said, I still stand by my earlier point that the movement sounds like it is on a different plane
 
Last edited:
Back
Top