First ever turning!

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Esqy

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After a false start with my Lathe, and the legendary Dave from Charnwood sorting it out, I turned a thing!

No idea what I was trying to make, I was just trying out the different chisels.
Still not quite got a feel for it, but I reckon the chisels need sharpening - So I'm on the hunt for a slow/variable speed grinder, and have realised that the correct amount of tools in a workshop is N+1.
I call it the 'Useless Awl'
 

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A sharpening system of some kind is essential to turning but it's good to see you made a start without one. I always tell new turners to take their first project and put it on the shelf. Check back on it in a few months, you'll be surprised how fast you can develope skills if you keep at it.
It actually looks like a leather slicker
 
Oh yeah, This one was Danish oil'd and furniture waxed. This is being kept :D

Looks like Yandles has a Record Power wetstone grinder for £150 - And it's payday on Friday! I know I don't strictly NEED a wetstone, but it's surprisingly hard to find a decent priced variable speed grinder, and I only have a small garage, so having a separate slow grinder would be a bit of a space-waster.

You're right though, it does look like one of those leather finisher thingys... Burnisher, maybe? Or a prison-shank.
Either way, I'm low-key proud of it. Thank you for your encouragement :D
 
A bog standard bench grinder will do fine for sharpening turning tools.
Grinding Station - Sharpening Woodturning Tools, Chisels & Cutting Irons - YouTube
I basically do what this guy does for turning tools and the $50. 8'' grinder I bought 20 years ago is still going strong. I have a white wheel on mine. I do have a wet grinder but find it too slow. I can do a gouge on the bench grinder quicker than it takes to set up the jig on the wet grinder. I would rather be turning than sharpening.
Regards
John
 
You do not need a whetstone for turning tools, don't waste your money on one. Neither do you NEED a slow/variable speed grinder. There are loads of decent enough grinders on Gumtree/FB Marketplace - I picked up a German made 8" for £20 - get one and spend your money on good quality wheels and a jig.
 
Thanks for the link Orraloon, and the advice Phil - I was only really looking because almost all turning-tool sharpening guides online really specify that the grinding wheel needs to be slow. I have a cheap Mac Allister bench grinder that a friend gave me when he upgraded - I'll see if I can do what the chap in that video did.
 
I'm fairly new to Turning also, for sharpening I picked up a Record Power RSBG8 8" White Stone wheel, got it from VikingDirect for £95.99 and they have 15% if its your first order :)
 
Welcome to the world of woodturning, it can be very addictive 😀

I'm also very much a beginner and it didn't take me long to appreciate how important a reasonable sharpening setup is, it makes all the difference. (y)
 
What I've found with a lot of the videos online that I watch to get inspired etc. is that most of whats out there is making stuff for the workshop.
So... I'll make wood stuff to help me make wood stuff, which will let me make more wood stuff.....and it goes around in circles!

It's all good though, Making workshop benches, drawers, storage, stools etc helps me learn and practice the skills needed to make stuff for other people, and If I mess it up a bit... shrug. It's only in my workshop.
 
I have an Axminster craft 8" grinder, I currently use the white wheel it came with and the Robert sorry deluxe sharpening jig, the only downside to a standard bench grinder really is the higher speed means metal is removed much faster so you really need to learn not to push too hard, it can also burn the steel if not careful, I have destroyed (used up) a whole bowl gouge in 18months, I plan to upgrade my white wheel to a CBN wheel eventually as it will run cooler and remove a little less metal.
One other downside to high speed bench grinder, even though mine is bolted down, once it gets up to speed everything on the bench starts walking itself about from the vibration.
 
Surely thats half the fun.. Making small bets on which item falls first?

I really lucked out at a car boot sale last week - Was picking up some old battered rusty chisels to practise sharpening on - Usually can grab them for like 50p each, so I picked up a selection of 7 or 8.. Then saw some turning tools hidden at the bottom of the box... Got 2 spindle gouges, 2 skews and a parting tool - The whole lot (including the rusty chisels) and a little brush for the bench, all for a tenner.
They're not branded, so they are probably cheapo ones - But perfect for practising sharpening the gouges. worst case - I destroy them while learning, best case I have some spare chisels.
 
After a false start with my Lathe, and the legendary Dave from Charnwood sorting it out, I turned a thing!

No idea what I was trying to make, I was just trying out the different chisels.
Still not quite got a feel for it, but I reckon the chisels need sharpening - So I'm on the hunt for a slow/variable speed grinder, and have realised that the correct amount of tools in a workshop is N+1.
I call it the 'Useless Awl'
Just get a white wheeled grinder, 8” preferably simply because of the profile. I just turn straight from the wheel and it cuts fine with decent tools. Too many now relying on sanding. A poster I saw in an engineering suppliers which applies to sanding. ‘ grinding your welds down doesn’t make you a welder, it makes you a grinder’ . Same applies to turning.
Regards,
Dave
 
What you seem to have made is a very nice, and very useful, garden dibber. And do not let anyone tell you that that is not exactly what you originally planned to make. In fact you have improved the design as yours can be turned around and used for small garden bulbs as well.
 
Sharpening on a grindstone and dipping into water frequently to cooling, is a falacy. If your chisel discolours whilst grinding - too late, you've overheated it and destroyed the temper. What you're sharpening should stay as cool as possible, thus a slower grinder or a softer stone.
 
That's probably the best way of looking at it, Thanks Mike.

Henniep - Thats kinda what worried me. Before I educated myself on drilling stainless steel, I was always frustrated at how many drill bits I snapped by 'work hardening' the surface. Slow, steady and cutting oil.
 
Sharpening on a grindstone and dipping into water frequently to cooling, is a falacy. If your chisel discolours whilst grinding - too late, you've overheated it and destroyed the temper. What you're sharpening should stay as cool as possible, thus a slower grinder or a softer stone.
Most turning tools are HSS and a little heat will not harm them. Plenty turners have been using a grinder for a long time with no problems. With tool steel its true that when it changes colour the damage is done but with taking care and dunking it can be done. The aluminum oxide wheels also run cooler than the old grey wheels but you have to dress them to keep the cutting surface clean.
That said I see the system as a good cost effective way of keeping turning tools sharp but I don't do my bench chisels or plane irons on it.
Regards
John
 
For anyone who may be interested I have the OneWay wolverine sharpening system in the for sale section...

😃
 
Sharpening on a grindstone and dipping into water frequently to cooling, is a falacy. If your chisel discolours whilst grinding - too late, you've overheated it and destroyed the temper. What you're sharpening should stay as cool as possible, thus a slower grinder or a softer stone.
No need to dip in water. You only touch to the stone until there are small amount of sparks coming off the edge.
 
I have a Rutland sharpening system i was just about to put up for sale if your looking for something.
 

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