first attempt inlay

[woodworm2017]

hi made a pen holder for my wife's desk with finger joints and a wenge inlay.

 

[SteveF]

looks great
are her initials SH or was the E too difficult?

Steve

 

[woodworm2017]

hi Steve,
thanks yes they are SH.

 

[DrDerrick]

Finger joints look nicely done!

 

[woodworm2017]

Finger joints look nicely done!

hi DrDerrick
thanks for your comments i have an incra router fence system works very well.

 

[custard]

Wenge into Beech is a tough challenge, so for a first attempt that's a fine result!

=D>

 

[Droogs]

Good first try, especiall as Custard said with the woods used. Did ou use a template or freehand the letters? Also what knife blade did you use?
Curved lettering is ver hard to get right, from the images I would suggest you are holding the blade at too low an angle when going round the curves and this has caused the slight chipping. Tr to hold the blade at an angle of 60 to 80 degrees angle of attack - that is the sharp edge not the back of the blade. Appl very little pressure at all. For the first 3 or 4 strokes the blade just let the weight of the knife start the line and then apply a little more pressure each stroke after that. It takes me around 20 stokes to create a curve, let the knife do the work for you and you will get the hang of having crisp edges. Try to have the blade's outside part of the bevel at around 15 degrees as well relative to the bacground surface. This will help create a slight chamfer that aids the insertion of the infill piece.

hth

 

[woodworm2017]

Good first try, especiall as Custard said with the woods used. Did ou use a template or freehand the letters? Also what knife blade did you use?
Curved lettering is ver hard to get right, from the images I would suggest you are holding the blade at too low an angle when going round the curves and this has caused the slight chipping. Tr to hold the blade at an angle of 60 to 80 degrees angle of attack - that is the sharp edge not the back of the blade. Appl very little pressure at all. For the first 3 or 4 strokes the blade just let the weight of the knife start the line and then apply a little more pressure each stroke after that. It takes me around 20 stokes to create a curve, let the knife do the work for you and you will get the hang of having crisp edges. Try to have the blade's outside part of the bevel at around 15 degrees as well relative to the bacground surface. This will help create a slight chamfer that aids the insertion of the infill piece.

hth

hi Droogs,
thanks for your encouragement and for you advice really very helpful. Inlay was cut freehand hand coping saw didn't realised it going to be that difficult specially on wange yes i had quite a bit of chipping since then i have picked up a jet scroll saw hopefully some better. do you have any suggestion on what type of blade should i use on it.

regards
Ahmed

 

[Droogs]

Ah, I was thinking you hand done it by hand using knife and hand router etc. As you're going to be doing it using a scroll saw, you may find that using a low tack sellotape to cover the outside of the piece being sawn will help to vastly reduce an tear out issues and also helps lubricate the blade as it passes through. On very splintery or tiny pieces I have found running very thin CA glue around to outline to be cut helps as well. I have found I like pegas blades both in my scroll saw and in my hand fretsaws. As to size of blade that really does come down to personal preference. Generally it boils down to as small as you can get away with and not break them every 30 seconds . Below is a link to the Pegas blade type/size guide for various materials, it's a good starting point.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... e6RVjjY3un

the main thing is to just practice with the different sizes. get some thin cheap ply to practice with. It's horrible to work on but teaches you how to move accurately and at what speed. Just as with full size hoints etc pre-scoring the line to form a knifewall does help keep a crisp edge.

hth