Finally got a bandsaw

[Gary H]

After soooo long waiting and reading so many persuasive posts regarding the bandsaw being 'the most useful piece of 'shop equipment', I finally laid my hands on one. I was planning to wait a couple of months and order a Record or SIP model but, as usual, one presented itself sooner. Not a new one, but a well maintained and lovingly cared for Electra Beckum BAS315. Now, I'll not go into details about the price etc. - no drive-by or park-on-your-face gloats here - but just to say since getting it on Friday, I've been busy setting up and learning the ins and outs, so to speak.(as well as clearing out the W/S to accomodate !)

I guess the point is, all you guys/ gals with bandsaws have much more experience than I do, so I'd greatly appreciate whatever info, recommended websites, tips tricks and jigs or anything really that might help me with setting up properly and using the 'new baby' to it's full potential.

So a big Ta muchly in advance for any response and for allowing me to share my joy!! (and to the vendor - you know who you are! :wink: )

Gary

 

[Noel]

Hi Gary,

Think that makes about 6 or so 315 club members...You'll enjoy it.
When I got mine, sometime ago, the bottom guide holder was starting to show signs of metal (pot metal...) fatigue where the hex grub screws secure the two block guides. Obviously the last owner had overtightened them and one side finally broke last week. Luckily my local tool man had one in stock and at only a £5er + vat, was well pleased.
If it hasn't already been mentioned a couple of good books are:
Lonnie Birds "The Bandsaw Book" or Mark Duginske's "Bandsaw Handbook". Both excellent although I prefer Lonnie Bird's book, much easier to understand for the likes of me.....and it has big colour pictures..
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... 01-2739809

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... 01-2739809


Rgds

Noel

 

[Aragorn]

Hi Gary
I don't know about what other people usually do with their bandsaw rip fence, but mine is hung up on a peg next to the machine and has practically never been used. Reason being - bandsaws don't necessarily cut parallel to the rip fence (or perpendicular to the front edge of the table - however you look at it). Every blade will produce a slightly different straight cut angle - i.e. you may need to push the timber through at 3º for example to get a straight cut - and this is quite acceptable!
To assess this on your machine as it is set up at any one time, draw a straight line along the length of a piece of scrap and cut it freehand on the bandsaw. After a little while you will see at what angle you need to push the wood through to get a straight cut.
Instead of the rip fence, I use a resaw jig which IMHO works very well for all ripping applications. It guides the timber the right distance from the blade, but doesn't try to dictate the direction of travel for you.
Nice straight cuts, minimal pressure on the blade and bearings, and a quick pass on the planer cleans it up.
Lovely machines, and fast becoming my preference for any ripping operation (eat your heart out Norm!)

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Gary,

Damn, you think I sold it too cheaply I don't want you to feel too bad about it, as I can tell it is spoiling your enjoyment of the new machine :wink:

If it is any consolation then the capital cost is depreciated each year against tax, so after 3 years the tiny amount left was what I needed to get for it. And I will have to pay tax on that :evil:


The vendor

 

[Chris Knight]

Gary,

Congratulations! Now you are not to worry but in about a week, you will start to wonder why you didn't wait for a larger machine to appear, preferably one with 12 inches of resaw capability and a left tilting table with guides under the table as good as the guides above, a tension indicator, a quick tension release, a brake, four speeds, and so on.

The truth is that a small saw can do an amazing amount - it's just that one wants more of it!

 

[Anonymous]

HI Gary congrats on the new toy

Only recommendation I can make is to buy a Dure Edge blade for it. My bandsaw was a different machine with one fitted - finally cut parallel to the fence without the blade wandering all over the place!

Have fun

Cheers

Tony

 

[Gary H]

Noely
Thanks for the book tips. Im sure LB's book would be more helpful to a beginner such as myself, too. Especially if it has pictures! Hmmm, a 315 club, eh??

bandsaws don't necessarily cut parallel to the rip fence

Aragorn
Thats one of the first things I noticed too when I tried to use it. Similar problem with the mitre guide. Although the amount of wander may be due to my dodgy setting up and tensioning etc.

Tony
Yes I've heard all about Dure-Edge. High on priorities list, that one :wink:

Thanks guys, any more you have will be a great help.
Anyone else?
Gary

Mr Vendor, sir. Too cheaply?? Is there such a thing? Not at all, Im always in line for a bargain and I'll try not to let it spoil my enjoyment! I guess I was surprised to see how depreciation works, not being to good with economy and such. That's usually SWMBO's area!

 

[Johnboy]

Aragorn, could you give more detail about the Resaw Jig or a link to an old post if it exists. Sounds very useful but I have never heard of one before.

Thanks in advance.

John

 

[StevieB]

Ooh, interesting topic. I am also on the lookout for a bandsaw, probably within the next three months. I was interested in the comments about the blade not cutting parallel with the fence! Is this a feature of all bandsaws due to the nature of them, or just smaller bandsaws, or just due to the quality of the blade. As I dont have room for a table saw a bandsaw was going to be my main method of resawing. Only small scale stuff, but I still need it to be accurate. Guess what I am asking is should I ignore the rip fence when looking at bandsaws if it has little use, or is it accurate if I take the time to set the bandsaw up properly and fit a dure edge blade?

Cheers,

Steve.

 

[kityuser]

in my limited experience i have recently resawed 50mmx150mm pine/beech and ash on my startrite 351E.

I used the rip fence to great effect (with the help of some MDF to increase the height) and did not really notice any effects listed previously in this thread.

one thing that did strike me is just how noisy a bandsaw can be when resawing 150mm stock :shock:

regards
steve

 

[Aragorn]

The point I'm making is that there's no need for it to be "accurate" as in parallel. The bandsaw is perfectly accurate for ripping when used with a resaw jig (details to follow once it's uploaded to the gallery).
In other words, why spend time with every new blade making adjustments for parallel that are completely unnecessary?
Definitely buy a bandsaw - they're great!

I've noticed one of the Jet bandsaw comes with a resaw attachment that fits to the rip fence. This would be an improvement on my jig, as it would be even easier to set the distance from the blade.

I'm sure it will all become clear when the photos are validated.... :wink:

 

[Alf]

I use my rip fence all the time, always have done. I think a good blade can make all the difference of course. But making a point fence for re-sawing isn't too taxing, so it's not something to worry about. One of these days I may get round to actually using the re-sawing post attachment wotsit on my Jet, but so far I haven't felt the need. Hmm, I said I'd review it too, didn't I? Where's the tuit list...

Cheers, Alf

 

[Keith Smith]

I think I have recommended this before but I will recommend it again.

"Mastering your bandsaw" with Mark Duginske. 60 minute video shows all the basic techniques, including setting up from scratch. Covers resawing in a way that no book can. Finally he cuts a perfect cone freehand, the guy is good and he can get things across without you wanting to kill him, until he turns the cone that is. I still can't do it.

It's available from Stobartdavies.com and The Guild of Master Craftsmen.

 

[johnjin]

Hi Keith
That Stobartdavis link looks excellent. And I thought there was a lot of woodworking books in the Axminister and Rutland Catalogues. :shock: That will take some browsing through, but I think I will try the Mark Duginske Video as a little bit of his expertise with my new Bandsaw will definitely not go amiss. :lol:

All the best

John

 

[Aragorn]

Admin
Don't know if this should be a separate post, but I'm just wondering where the images of my re-saw jig I uploaded to the gallery have got too. I uploaded early this morning. Is it usual to take this long?
Please feel free to delete this post once they're up.
Thanks

 

[Pete W]

I was interested in the comments about the blade not cutting parallel with the fence! Is this a feature of all bandsaws due to the nature of them, or just smaller bandsaws, or just due to the quality of the blade.

I'm far from expert but I've read widely on the subject... .

Seems to vary from user to user, even users of the same model of bandsaw. There's some evidence that using a wide blade (eg, 3/4" or greater) and under massive amounts of tension, eliminates this 'leading'.

I've also read many other users who report that a well-tuned bandsaw with a good blade (even at smaller sizes on smaller bandsaws) show no signs of leading.

Finally, as Aragorn says, there's a school of thought that any bandsaw may do it but it doesn't matter. I've got a little Record 10" saw, with the Record-supplied blade, and so far I've been able to freehand rip to a line with a pleasing degree of accuracy. (Given my lack of experience, that's quite astonishing, I think).

I've also resawn some 3-inch softwoood to a remarkably consistent thickness by adjusting the standard fence to account for the lead on my saw, but will get around to making a point-resaw fence some time soon. I'll probably also put a better blade on before I try resawing oak or similar!

 

[Aragorn]

Ah - here we are. The photos are in the gallery of the resaw jig: front and back.
As you can see it's terribly simple but works a treat. I think Steve has best covered the resaw/ripping options in the post above. My advice to anyone trying to adjust the blade/wheels/bearings/guide/table or rip fence for parallel (/perdendicular) is to spend 4 minutes making one of these instead!

 

[Johnboy]

Thanks Aragorn, I will knock one up and give it a try.

John