Few more mains sockets?

[Jacob]

I ran a fixed loop circuit around my workshop with 8 double sockets on it, on a board about 40" from the floor. The clever detail (well I think it is) is that there's a little 4" wide continuous shelf on the top edge of the board which is useful as a shelf, but also protects the sockets from damage if things are dropped in their vicinity or leant against the wall etc.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

If you need extension leads then you have a lack of sockets. I can understand running an extension lead outside to power a lawn mower or to vacuum a car but within a workshop they should not be needed because it is easier and tidier to just have plenty of sockets. They are also a tripping hazzard and how many of us have been caught out by a cable.

 

[PAC1]

Hence a cube you can suspend from a rafter or the ceiling.
My bench is in the middle of the workshop so it was either dig the floor up and install some floor boxes (not ideal in a workshop), ditto but fix the outlets to the bench (not ideal as I need to move my bench) or suspend from the ceiling on a chain to use with no trip hazard (I just headbut it instead). Not really much of a choice.

 

[Sandyn]

I have a few of my fixed power tools/extraction/floodlights run off one 13A socket which has a couple of further extensions. , but no serious power on them. It means I just have one switch at night to shut down everything. No trip hazard, because I run the extensions over-head on other furniture. I have plenty of sockets on the wall, but was fed up with cables running to the tools. That was more of a trip hazard for me. I'm in the process of mounting fixed sockets on the ceiling to tidy things up a bit. I will probably add a relay with NVR configuration so I can isolate everything on the radial circuit.

 

[Sideways]

A alternative to consider :
Install a captive cable outlet in your fixed wiring - the type used for connecting electric radiators etc with a switch and a 13A fuse built in.
Fit a decent quality and size of flex into it - such as H07RNF rubber - and run to a blue CE (commando) industrial socket.
Hang the socket from the ceiling on a chain (several types have a moulded eye built into the case that can be used for this)
Commando sockets are strong and durable for workshop duty with good cable clamps and seals.
A single socket is not so big to have hanging from above.
Making the connection via a 13A fused switched outlet is a safe connection to your domestic spur or ring main. It provides the fuse protection that isn't built into the commando plug/ socket.
Chain support ensures that you don't pull on the flex.
If you want a full 16A from the commando socket, you will need to get a protected 16A circuit installed, but I use this for selected power or portable tools that would otherwise be on a 13A plug.
My machines are on their own individual circuits.
It's not a business premises or shared space where someone might plug a true 16A load into my 13A fused commando sockets without realising the limitation.

 

[Sandyn]

Install a captive cable outlet in your fixed wiring - the type used for connecting electric radiators etc with a switch and a 13A fuse built in.
Fit a decent quality and size of flex into it - such as H07RNF rubber

Thanks! That's a good idea. I only have one machine that needs a 16A supply, but that's in another workshop just now. Makes the connection more accessible,

 

[pe2dave]

Hi

If you need extension leads then you have a lack of sockets. I can understand running an extension lead outside to power a lawn mower or to vacuum a car but within a workshop they should not be needed because it is easier and tidier to just have plenty of sockets. They are also a tripping hazzard and how many of us have been caught out by a cable.

And in the middle of the workshop? That's my reason for the extension, hung from the rafters. No trip hazard, just convenience.

 

[TRITON]

I know your pain. Used to have extension plugged into extension, then back and forth unplugging this to plug in that.
Until I had a sparks in to fit a bathroom heater, and while youre at it.... fit me 4 double sockets in the workshop...

I now have projects on the go...and get this .... free sockets

 

[flying haggis]

if this 6way socket with its 13a fuse bothers people so much why not put a smaller fuse in the plug supplying the cube. ok you wont be able to use high powered tools but you will have piece of mind that it cant run at 20a as has been suggested as possible. or just not buy it! i have some of these style of 4 way blocks that i would hang from the ceiling. they have 4 holes for permanent mounting, the two near the switch, yes a switch as well as a fuse in the block itself, will take a 4mm bolt to fix the chain(s) to so that the cable is to the top
https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/2164525354

 

[flying haggis]

I know your pain. Used to have extension plugged into extension, then back and forth unplugging this to plug in that.
Until I had a sparks in to fit a bathroom heater, and while youre at it.... fit me 4 double sockets in the workshop...

I now have projects on the go...and get this .... free sockets

dont fret about it, you will soon fill them

 

[Sideways]

When an electrician installs fixed wiring, they select cables based on the fuse or circuit breaker that is protecting the circuit. This makes allowances for "small overloads of long duration". These are 40 odd % in the case of circuit breakers and (if I remember) about 73% for circuits protected by fuses which take longer to blow. As long as the wiring was properly designed and installed, you have no need to worry about 20 A flowing through a 13A fuse for as long as it takes to blow.
If you have installed your own wiring and have never hear of this before, you were meddling with something that you weren't competent to do

The thing pe2dave linked to is a German brand - probably designed with a bunch of 16A schuko sockets and tweaked for the UK market with our 13A outlets.