End grain hollowing

[Keithie]

Lots of the stuff I want to make (tea light holders, pencil holders, goblets, bells for Christmas trees, wind chimes, etc etc) will need end grain hollowing.

I can see how these could probably be done with almost anything from just sandpaper and an everyday screwdriver (perhaps sharpened), through spindle/ bowl gouges, forstner/flat head drill bits, augurs and specialist hollowing tools (like the one-way 'termite') and self made variants.

What do folk use ?

Are there some tools which are more appropriate for certain scales/types of end grain hollowing projects?

The most demanding thing (from and end grain hollowing perspective) I ever made was a spalted beech pencil holder (4" round x 4" high with a 3 3/4" internal diameter) which I just did with a spindle gouge ...took forever and my toolrest was never the same after!

 

[woodpig]

What do folk use ?

I use 6mm carbide for hollowing using my own home made version of the Hope tool.

http://www.hopewoodturning.co.uk/carbide_tools_23.html

I've not tried the concept but there are also these:

http://www.fromthetree.co.uk/hollowing-tools.html

Having said that one of the guys at my club is very adept at using a 1/4" or 5/16" spindle gouge for hollowing. He also has one of the Hunter tools as well though.

http://huntertoolsystems.com/product/1- ... no-handle/

 

[Robbo3]

One reason for using a bowl gouge &/or specialist hollowing tools is that they are generally stronger & can be used further over the toolrest. Nothing wrong with using a spindle gouge - just know how deep you can go with it. It will probably vary with different species of wood but you can normally see & hear when it starts to chatter.

A forstner/sawtooth bit quickly removes the slow moving wood in the centre leaving you to finish with the tool you feel most comfortable with.

 

[SVB]

For shallow hollowing (tea lights etc) I tend to just use a spindle gouge (cutting from centre out on arc with flute at 1 - 2 o'clock ish) and finish corner by scraping with point of skew or similar.

Deeper stuff like pen pots etc, I go to the hollowing tools. Start by drilling centre out with approx 20mm saw tooth bit, then for end grain I prefer the scraping hollowers so I use the appropriate size kelton hollowers (for side grain hollowing I prefer the cutting hollowers so Rolly tool is weapon of choice but that was not the q you asked!).

Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.

Simon

 

[Keithie]

Thanks all

The chatter on the gouge when its almost on its edge was definitely the issue which was sawing through my toolrest!

Hadnt even heard of 'centre savers' (like the Kelton stuff) ..seems like a great idea for special pieces of wood where you want nested curvy bowls.

Interestingly I was using my spindle gouge with the flute towards about 10 O'clock ...turning from centre to left edge and found the gouge was ok enough for flat internal bottoms but obviouly not exact 90 deg corners. I guess the 1-2 o'clock flute angle is if you're going centre to right (left handed?) .. or am I missing something pretty fundamental ?

I'll post some pics when I've made something better than inept and can figure out how to use resolution reduction software on the pc!

edit : made a simple blog for old & new work ...what little there is so far ...any constructive criticism welcome ! (I already know I'm by no means good!)

https://hobbywoodturner.blogspot.co.uk

 

[SVB]

Thanks all

Interestingly I was using my spindle gouge with the flute towards about 10 O'clock ...turning from centre to left edge and found the gouge was ok enough for flat internal bottoms but obviouly not exact 90 deg corners. I guess the 1-2 o'clock flute angle is if you're going centre to right (left handed?) .. or am I missing something pretty fundamental ?

https://hobbywoodturner.blogspot.co.uk

No, I think we are agreeing, I wasn't really thinking and in my mind had line across top of two flute edges then reaching 1-2 o'clock which is pretty much the same as line normal to base of the flute pointing at 10 oclock so we're agreeing think and as you say, cut from centre out to edge.

 

[SVB]

Thanks all


Hadnt even heard of 'centre savers' (like the Kelton stuff) ..seems like a great idea for special pieces of wood where you want nested curvy bowls.

https://hobbywoodturner.blogspot.co.uk

I was referring to the kelton hollowing tools which are scraping tools by design. (Most, I think all tools, either cut or scrape to my simple mind!).

I wasn't thinking of the coring tools for this application as they are another thread in themselves and while the fixed path coring tools like oneway and woodcut make are simple to use, the mcnaughton tools that are marketed by kelton offer more freedom / flexibility when nesting bowls but at s price of skill / practice required to master them!

Simon

 

[Keithie]

For shallow hollowing (tea lights etc) I tend to just use a spindle gouge (cutting from centre out on arc with flute at 1 - 2 o'clock ish) and finish corner by scraping with point of skew or similar

Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.

Simon

No worries ... it's great that those with more experience are able to offer their wisdom and experience of best working methods to new folk.

I have to say that you're obviously way more experienced than me if you're using the tip of a skew chisel to cut square internal corners in end grain hollowing! Maybe I'm too timid but I cant even start to imagine what would happen if it caught ...lol.. I have this image of an exploding box and the tip of the chisel in my eye!!

Maybe that's my bad imagination and really it's pretty safe and you'd recommend it for novices ? If so I might give it a try ..albeit exceptionally carefully!!

 

[Dalboy]

With most of the things you listed in your first post the spindle gouge or even a bowl gouge will be enough as they are not that deep just remember follow the grain and cut down hill will improve the cutting of the item.

When making boxes I tend to leave a small curve at the transition from bottom to sides this helps removal of anything in the bottom when it is filled.

Using a skew to clean out the bottom corner is quite safe(as long as it is used in a slightly trailing mode) as it is being used as a scraper rather than planing with it, however a scraper is far more the tool for the job as they tend to be made from a thicker metal stock

 

[SVB]

.

Using a skew to clean out the bottom corner is quite safe(as long as it is used in a slightly trailing mode) as it is being used as a scraper rather than planing with it, however a scraper is far more the tool for the job as they tend to be made from a thicker metal stock

Good clarification, thanks. (Ps without teaching you to suck egg, but trailing means pointing slightly downhill from handle to tip so if you do get a mini catch, the tool will simple rotate out of the cut where as if it were flat, or dangerously even up hill, any catch may cause the tool to be drawn into the work). Used it this way it is quite safe and you will be fine.

Simon

 

[Keithie]

Thanks again SVB ... I think I'm possibly overly self-protextve due to low skill level ...but have finally ordered a skew chisel...trying to get to grips withthe basics must be the right way for me to proceed .. just very skowly in my case! All advice for experienced turners is very welcome .. and when I dont understand it then the clarifications are just as welcome too!

cheers

 

[SVB]

Depending where you are in Somerset you might like to look up / Google the max Carey woodturning trust in portishead. It is an off shoot of Avon and Bristol woodturners and offers very competitive priced classes in a relaxed atmosphere. However, I think it is mid week only so not sure if that would work for you.

BRgds
Simon

 

[Paul Hannaby]

A spindle gouge if used in the right way will hollow pretty quickly. Another favourite of mine is the ring tool, which is good for goblets, hollow forms, boxes etc. Simple square or half round scrapers can also be used for hollowing. I have a square scraper sharpened on both the end and the side for creating a straight sided, flat bottomed hole. All these tools are relatively cheap in comparison to most other hollowing tools and all the things you list as projects are within reach with them without the expense of the larger hollowers.