Edge banding design query

[BrandonB]

Hi all,

I'm struggling to commit to a design due to the edge banding.

The install is going to be a combination of a bookcase and office desk/workspace using matt white melamine MDF with edge banding. I cannot decide whether go for 2mm PVC or 1mm PVC radius edge banding as I don't want a funny connection because of the slight radius.

2mm PVC is the better quality edge banding but this means stepping most of the panels back to accomendate for the 2mm radius you will get. If you don't step the panels back you will create a weird connection between the shelves and the main dividers as well as the staggered shelf dividers.

1mm PVC on the other hand would mean less work as you wouldn't need to step panels back as it's such as small radius it won't look out of place or odd compared to the 2mm PVC edge banding. but doesn't look as nice as 2mm edge banding.

Yes I am over thinking this slightly but I would be devastated if I placed the cutting order and discovered this problem on the first day installing it.

I have attached photos below to illustrate what I mean, if anyone has some reference photos so I can picture it better it would be much appreciated.

Thanks all.

 

[doctor Bob]

I always do 2mm and step them back, a 1mm step back is sufficient to look fine.
Have the contractors got a good machine, white mel is very difficult to edge, needs a top machine to look good.

 

[TheTiddles]

I’d go for the standard design technique, never flush components unless you have to, in which case you need to finish them together.

Step back, chamfer etc... all removes the problem.

This is the same for metals, plastics and just as applicable for wood. You can see effective use of this technique in probably 50 things from where you are sat right now, phone case, light fittings etc

Aidan

 

[BrandonB]

I always do 2mm and step them back, a 1mm step back is sufficient to look fine.
Have the contractors got a good machine, white mel is very difficult to edge, needs a top machine to look good.

Hey thanks for your reply, the company I use do a brilliant job edge banding.

The detail that is making my choice hard is the uprights that meet the top filler. Do I step the uprights back from the top filler, will that look odd? or do I use a 1mm radius and have it flush. If you have any photos for reference it would make my choice alot easier just typical over thinking such a small detail.

Thanks

 

[doctor Bob]

No close up pics, but steps look fine.
I'll step back more sometimes, i.e. sides 595, shelves 590, verticial divides 585mm.
I think these days people expect 2mm edging as standard and much tougher.

 

[Sean33]

Hi all,

I'm struggling to commit to a design due to the edge banding.

The install is going to be a combination of a bookcase and office desk/workspace using matt white melamine MDF with edge banding. I cannot decide whether go for 2mm PVC or 1mm PVC radius edge banding as I don't want a funny connection because of the slight radius.

2mm PVC is the better quality edge banding but this means stepping most of the panels back to accomendate for the 2mm radius you will get. If you don't step the panels back you will create a weird connection between the shelves and the main dividers as well as the staggered shelf dividers.

1mm PVC on the other hand would mean less work as you wouldn't need to step panels back as it's such as small radius it won't look out of place or odd compared to the 2mm PVC edge banding. but doesn't look as nice as 2mm edge banding.

Yes I am over thinking this slightly but I would be devastated if I placed the cutting order and discovered this problem on the first day installing it.

I have attached photos below to illustrate what I mean, if anyone has some reference photos so I can picture it better it would be much appreciated.

Thanks all.

View attachment 106785View attachment 106787

Personally i would go 2mm, only last year i made some cabinets and shelves etc for a client and i ended up redoing all the edging as i wasn't happy with it. Have also vowed to never again make anything or use Melamine again. My opinion only but would use MR and paint it.

 

[recipio]

Interesting. White melamine always looks awful IMO but what else will replace it if you want a white surface.? There are router bits that put a virtually invisible solid wood edge on any panel board but that would need a good spray painting system.? What would be a good paint that will give a first class finish. ?

 

[BrandonB]

Interesting. White melamine always looks awful IMO but what else will replace it if you want a white surface.? There are router bits that put a virtually invisible solid wood edge on any panel board but that would need a good spray painting system.? What would be a good paint that will give a first class finish. ?

White melamine won't wear down like a painted finish would especially if its a desk area, where you're hands would be resting on the worktop. It would slowly rub away the sheen level around that area.

I think if you were to avoid using melamine you would need to be experienced with spraying your installs and have the knowledge of what paints to use and how to mix them to achieve different levels of sheen. It's another venture and a few more years of trial and error just to get that right let alone actually building the install. I'm slowly learning as soon as you think you know the majority of one area of carpentry you come across another area you hadn't even considered and realise there is still a ton to learn. It's exhausting you'll finally know everything you need to know about it when you're around 50/60 years old when your body starts packing in!

 

[Spectric]

You will never stop learning even when the body starts failing because something will change like technology or regulations and then on top of that you add people.