Duncan's turnings 2010

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duncanh

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It appears as though I haven't posted any work yet this year as I've had to start a new thread for myself. How can I not have any work to show! I think I've mainly been part turning and not finishing as there's a pile of slowly drying items in the shed. However, prompted by the platter challenge on the magazine forum I've finished a couple of platters that I made from an elm plank I was given...






Both about 36cm diameter and finished with Chestnut wax oil.
 
Looking at the thumbnails my immediate impression was that they were not your usual standard Duncan. Seeing them full size I deeply apologise. The finish and the little touch of the bead make these really special. Love 'em.

Pete
 
Thanks for the comments.
I normally wouldn't use such a wide rim but decided to here because of the figuring and grain in the wood. Anything narrower would have cut into flame pattern on the lower one and I wanted to keep it all together. With the top one, which I made 2nd, I wanted to keep the same design. It also has a couple of pippy areas that I didn't want the the shoulder running through - it would have broken up the rim too much and it wouldn't have looked so clean.
 
As Pete says, well finished Duncan, Elm is not the easiest of subjects to tame, especially with details such as beads. Must admit on first looks the design struck me as 'made for competition' or 'display' as opposed to 'a user', but that is just down to my somewhat cynical view of "art work".

(don't despair Pete :lol: )
 
Rather surprisingly (as I just found out) they actually hold a reasonable amount of fruit - the 1st will hold 8 or 9 oranges and the 2nd maybe 12.
 
I know you like Elm, Duncan, and I can see why. These are absolutely lovely. The finish in the first shot is fabulous. It looks quite matte. Did you just give it the one coat of oil ?
 
Lightweeder":523octvv said:
Don't understand buffing with a bristle brush, but look forward to seeing the finished item.
Once the oil has cured/dried-out/hardened and any 'waxes' present firm up then buffing with a brush will increase the gloss level.

Buffing with the brush will also remove or blend in any small dust particles or raised grain. I use a domed one like this

This can be done with your mops LW, but you would need to leave the oil to cure for much longer IME before it is hard enough to work.
 
I use a brush that I got from Axminster about 5 years ago - essentially the same as the one Chas posted. I prefer it to buffing wheels on open grained timber such as oak and this elm as there's no chance of it leaving buffing compound in the pores. They're also great for burrs or any work that's carved or textured.
Martin Pidgen often sells them and he may have some with him at the club next month
 
It's been a while, but I've finally got something new to post -
a couple of boxes that were prompted by the birthday of a friend

First is a sycamore box (although you could call it a hollow form as it's not that practical as a box). 10cm high with ~5mm wall thickness thickening towards the base to increase stability. Finish is sanding sealer followed by Chestnut MC wax. I don't often use wax but this stuff is great!
The design is taken from Mark Baker's 'Woodturning projects' book



Second is an elm box. 10cm with 2 box sections. Finish is same as before. Design taken from Woodturning magazine issue 137.



click images for larger version
 
Neat little creations Duncan, full marks for picking a pre-determined design concept and having the discipline needed to achieve the finished products.

Hope the recipient is as please with them as you must be in producing them.
 
Both boxes are super Duncan, but i just love that 3 part box. Its a great piece.
 
Thanks for the comments. Hopefully I'll be posting more regularly as I've set myself the task of producing at least one finished item every 2 weeks...
 

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