Dressing up

[Anonymous]

Relax, it's nowt to do with your private 'hobby' :lol:

How often do you dress your grindstone? (or how long did it take you to reduce your 150mm to 125mm :lol: )

What do you use e.g. devil stone, diamond etc?

If you had to buy a new wheel tomorrow which one would it be? (Any particular reason for your choice?)

 

[CHJ]

Dressing:
Perhaps once every 3 months.
Usually because I have been ham-fisted and glazed the white one or grooved the blue. Still on my originals after 5 yrs. lost about 4mm.

Dressing Tool:
Single point diamond in home made parallel dressing jig.

Because it ensures best control of wheel balance

Stones:
Wide White Oxide 80-100 grit, and if I'm allowed a Blue or Pink Ceramic to compliment it.

The White one because with care it does everything I need, the Blue/Pink one because it is a more aggressive cut without the heat, needs a gentle touch though.

 

[wizer]

Dressing Tool:
Single point diamond in home made parallel dressing jig.

Have you got a pic of that Chas? Or a thread. Did a quick search and couldn't see it.

 

[CHJ]

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=256701#256701

 

[wizer]

Thanks Chas, that looks the biz!

 

[TEP]

6" grinder with 2 grey wheels. 6" grinder with 1" white wheel & 1" pink wheel, only bought the pink cause I couldn't find a white wheel at the time. I prefer white wheels, find the others can be a bit brutal if your not careful.

I also have a 6" mobile grinder with a 3/4" white wheel & 6" MDF/leather honing wheel I made myself. This is used if I take my small lathe out anywhere.

To dress I have a single diamond stick and a devil stone. I dress my stones by hand/eye, don't use a jig. I am coming to a replacement for the 1" white wheel after about 4 years of use. No set time for dressing just when I see a wheel needs it. Possibly about every 3 - 4 weeks sometimes less.


Like the look of the 'T' shaped diamond dresser but haven't got one as yet.

 

[Jenx]

Had a 6" Perform grinder with white wheel, until about two weeks ago, when treated myself to a new Record Grinder - 8" with a 40mm wide white wheel. ( Standard Medium grey on the other end )
To be honest, i'm still monkeying about with it a bit .. its on a proper grinding table / stand, bolted into the floor, but I have some 'vibration issues' that I'm trying to properly resolve ( and struggling with ! )

Use the Devil Stone - both on the Perform previously, and on the new one.
( Tend to maybe use too often judging by the posts above.. I've been giving a 'wee touch up' to the wheel after every session of sharpening.. that is maybe overkill by the sounds of it )

But have been contemplating whether I 'should' be using a diamond dresser.. so this thread will be an excellent education as it unfolds.. and to see if I can maybe learn from the input of the more knowledgeable, as to what should be the best way to go !

 

[PowerTool]

Wide white wheel Perform grinder,dress it with a devil stone as and when it looks glazed or dirty (probably once or twice a month)
Am also tempted by the T shape dresser,because it looks like it should be easy to use.
Wheels - would just replace like with like,as I don't currently plan to upgrade it,and very rarely use the grey wheel.

Andrew

 

[duncanh]

I clean the 80grit white wheel with a devil stone whenever it's looking dirty. I do this hand held.

Every now and again I use a tool with diamonds suspended in some sort of metal. The head is about 1cm across. This is held in my Trugrind jig. It doesn't actually leave a flat wheel because I gently rock the jig and it gives a slightly convex wheel.
I don't know if it's any better than any other method, but it works for me.

 

[mikec]

I also have the 8" Record grinder with the wide white wheel.

I also have vibration problems that appear to be due to the white wheel being "out of round". I have tried dressing it by hand using a devil stone but cannot correct the problem.

I have a diamond point dressing tool that I will try using a jig so the tool cannot move in and out.

I normally dress the wheel when it is glazed or when a grinding job has left an uneven surface on the wheel. I only use the grey wheel for sharpening things like axes or removing metal from various projects in mild steel.

Regards

Mike C

 

[Jenx]

--- Litte 'Aside' ---]
Mike - if its anything like mine.. the vibes are bordering on horrendous. I've had the wheel off. calipered it, it's round. I changed it out for a new wheel.. same story. Cant say whether there's 'heavy spots' within it, causing a 'balance' problem.. I've marked it with a black marker, 'freehanded it, and it settles in a different spot each time, so I don't think its out of balance density-wise. ... but its dancing about like Hughie Green on acid. Its on a stand designed for the job, anchored into the concrete floor of the garage. To be honest, I'm a bit hacked off about the whole thing.. damn machine was £68. But I thought the problem was unique to me. Hearing what you have to say now makes me think otherwise. 1 is a 'one-off', two is a habit. I did wonder whether the difference in wheel thicknesses from end-to end, as the machine comes with, had anything to do with its problem... Looking at it, the wheels are equidistant from centre, and if there are two different weights of wheel at opposing ends of a hig-revs rotating shaft, I'm thinking there has to be some sort of gyroscopic effect taking place.... perhaps some of the real 'engineers' here ( as opposed to a spanner monkey such as I am ) may have some thoughts ? ... Chas, this is something I'd imagine you're pretty clued up on ... or any of the other lads with the right knowledge or experience... any input would be helpful ! This warrants further investigation, Mike .... If yours is anything like mine.. its bordering on being unuseable. :!:

 

[CHJ]

Jenx, for starters take take the wheels off the motor.

Does the motor vibrate in its bare state?

If so do you get excessive bearing noise, (screwdriver to casing and ear trick)

If all OK.

Fit clamping washers and run check vibration. (use some turned up small diameter mdf washers for packing if necessary.)

If OK

Turn up some large MDF discs to fit on grinder shafts to simulate stones, mount and run these.

If all is well at this point then wheels are the problem.

If your clamping washers are of a pressed steel construction get some machined from solid. (Peter Childs is one source)

 

[Jenx]

You're a Star, Sir ... ! 8)
Thanks Chas ... I'll have a good go at that this weekend.
Much appreciated.
I'm guessing Mike will do similar ..
Thanks ( will let you know how it goes here... may be a good help in case others have similar problems).

 

[CHJ]

Jenx, you say you have checked the wheels for balance.

To get a better guide, turn up a spindle (beech or similar) between centres for a good fit in wheel bore with a collar to back wheel against. make sure you have good centre registered in each end.

Mount wheel on spindle, remount between centres and check balance, grease or wax centres.

Check wheel periphery to determine if wheel bushing is central.

If the latter is out, replace with wooden bush.

 

[Daven]

I have a similar problem with the Axminster Wide stone grinder - I took the wide wheel off and found a cardboard label/washer which had a crease in it. I cut it down and put the wheel back on (in case the cardboard is there for a reason!).

This helped but it still shook like mad, so I have dressed it with a devil stone which made it a lot better but it does still vibrate. If you look at the wheel from the front and turn it slowly by hand the wheel wobbles as if the hole in the centre is un-true.

Not had a chance since then to have a look - but seeing the post by CHJ I will have another look over the weekend :wink:

By the way how tight should I do the nut up - I tried to estimate the pressure I used when taking it off! (I did stand well back when turning on again :lol: )

Cheers

Dave

 

[Jenx]

Will do, Chas ... again, most helpful - thank you =D> 8)

 

[CHJ]

Dave check the central bushing in the wheel, on mine it was some form of rubbish compound looking like lead but very crumbly, it was letting the stone move in a cyclic pattern as it saw fit when you touched the wheel with a tool.

Paper washers are used to prevent metal clamping washers creating localised pressure points that could cause stress fractures in the wheel.

If the wheel runs out laterally due to untrue bush or clamping washers, then you can make yourself some tapered washers out of thick card, (beer mats) (sand off on flat surface)

Finger tight, then just a nip with a spanner, as long as you can't move the wheel whilst holding the other one then that's fine. starting inertia and use will tend to tighten them

 

[Daven]

Thanks Chas - as Jenx said most helpful!

Dave

 

[CHJ]

Sorry Graham, we seem to have hijacked your thread, want to start another one on balance problems and we can give you some info. on dressing, preferences etc. :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

No problem Chas... it's all related to sharpening problems

are Axminster watching the forum? ...had loads of offers on Tormek stuff and their own in one of their regular e-mails !

anyone know if a tormek stone can be dressed with a cheapie chinoiserie med/coarse bog standard sharpening stone?

Just to bring it back on topic... I've found me burgundy fishnet tights ready for the next bash... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: